Chemicals are just about perfect yet no TC or FC readings

[smohl]

I have an LM2-24 and have a very similar problem as this post. ((Split off. JasonLion)) I just came from the pool store and my chemicals are just about perfect yet no TC or FC readings. I'm only slightly low on alkalinity. I'm running with all lights on and have super-chlorinated a few times over the past couple of weeks. I have cleaned the cell and I will say that because it is a clear cell I can see cholorine bubbles being generated or not clearly when I turn the generator on and off. As an additional comment though, when I cleaned the cell, while I was inspecting it I noticed that one of the plates in the middle had corners worn down so they were rounded. This was on one of the main plates that has one of the input cables directly attached to it. Is there any way to really test the cell to see if it's good or bad before I splurge on a new one? I have an ohm meter but not sure what I would test for. Any other suggestions? I was going to try to get a water sample directly from a return and have it tested also. Thanks for any other tips you may have.

 

[JasonLion]

Welcome to TFP!

"chemicals are just about perfect" really doesn't tell us enough to be able to help. Your concept of perfect and ours are likely to be very different. Please post a full set of water test results.

 

[svenpup]

+1 to Jason: full set of water test results please

I would say that zero FC doesn't fit anyones concept of perfect

Common causes of this are:

• No CYA, so the FC is quickly burned off by the sun[/*:m:2y96s5eb]
• Low level algae bloom or other organic contamination is consuming FC as fast as it is generated[/*:m:2y96s5eb]

 

[sonflower]

I have an LM2-24 and have a very similar problem as this post. ((Split off. JasonLion)) I just came from the pool store and my chemicals are just about perfect yet no TC or FC readings. I'm only slightly low on alkalinity. I'm running with all lights on and have super-chlorinated a few times over the past couple of weeks. I have cleaned the cell and I will say that because it is a clear cell I can see cholorine bubbles being generated or not clearly when I turn the generator on and off. As an additional comment though, when I cleaned the cell, while I was inspecting it I noticed that one of the plates in the middle had corners worn down so they were rounded. This was on one of the main plates that has one of the input cables directly attached to it. Is there any way to really test the cell to see if it's good or bad before I splurge on a new one? I have an ohm meter but not sure what I would test for. Any other suggestions? I was going to try to get a water sample directly from a return and have it tested also. Thanks for any other tips you may have.

Smohl as they said the pool chemical nbrs are the first thing needed.

I can tell you have a SWG so I will say based on personal experience:
1) if you read pool school it will tell you to not use the super-chlorinate function on the SWG (read the article for the "why" behind it)
2) how old is your cell? ours lasted 7 yrs before we had to replace it
3) you might can take your salt cell to a local PSS for testing - call PSS & ask if they test that brand/type of cell & if they say you do need a new salt cell shop online before purchasing. Leslie's wanted $650 for the same salt cell I pd $350 for online.