2 Problems: Related Perhaps?

[CC57]

Hi, Robert from Houston TX here. New guy on the forum. And have just started reading through the site.

Appreciate any assistance y'all.

Background info:

Salt water system in Houston TX.
16,000 gallon in ground plaster pool. Have the Hayward product line:
Filter: Model C5025, cartridge type
Booster pump: Model 5060, 3/4 horsepower
Tri-Star pump, Model SP3215
Pentair 300 Chlorine feeder
Goldline Aqua Logic PS-8 system (includes chlorine generator)

3rd summer for this pool and it has been almost maintenance free...until this year.

The 2 problems I’m fighting – and I would assume the 2 are related – are:
1) This is the 1st time/season we’ve had an algae problem.
2) “Chlorinator off - No flow” error

I’m assuming we have a lack of chlorine problem, as evident by the green water and the error display; however, attacking these one at a time:

Regarding #1, I’ve added acid has required, on numerous occasions, shocked pool as necessary, and have added algae control. Brushed almost every square inch of the pool (took me a couple of hours, my dive goggles cam in handy to help me find all of the green areas).

Pool cleared up and was “green free” for a good period. But then the algae started inching its way back in.

And now it’s came back strong this week (I’m sure 6 plus inches of rain this week as a result of Hurricane Alex didn’t help.)

On the #2 problem, I’m wondering if “error” display is a false problem. Why? I refilled the chlorine feeder at the first of the season (this is the 1st time we’ve done that. Didn’t even know it was there until this year). And have had to add additional 3” tablets a few times over the last couple of months. So I assume water is flowing the

Don’t have any test results handy at this time, but can have some available tomorrow (Tuesday 07/06).

Once again, appreciate any tips, guidance, trouble shooting tips you anyone can contribute.

 

[duraleigh]

Don’t have any test results handy at this time, but can have some available tomorrow (Tuesday 07/06).

Once again, appreciate any tips, guidance, trouble shooting tips you anyone can contribute.

Welcome to the forum!! :lol: :lol:

I can only speculate without the test results but algae occurs only when there is not enough chlorine. Post your results and we'll see if we can help you get your pool back crystal clear.

How have you been testing for chlorine up 'til now?

 

[CC57]

Was able to find enough information on this site (thank you) and via Google to determine where the flow switch is located. Also, on this sit, found a picture of what a functining switch should look like.

Ours is definitely broken.

Going to replace the switch and then go from there with regards to clearing the pool of algae.

I'll report back in a couple of days as to how it's progressing.

 

[257WbyMag]

Welcome to TFP!

Yes, once you get your test results, just post them for us and we will be able to go from there. Even if your SWCG is broken, you will still be able to clear the pool and use it with liquid chlorine or bleach.

Echoing what duraleigh asked, how have you been testing your water thus far?

 

[CC57]

Ok, here we go.

As far as chlorine testing, I took a water sample to the local pool supply house and the tetsed the water. (Looking at investing in our own test kit. I'll look at this site's recommendations)

Some more background:

3rd summer with this pool, and it's been basically maintenance free. All I've had to do, to date, is add acid and/or salt occasionaly, add algae cleaner occasionaly (3 or 4 times maybe, 26oz bottles per event), clean the cartridge filters twice a year, net the pool for leaves, and empty the skimmer baskets. Also, I usually only ran the "Super Chlorinator" for 24 hour periods about every other week or so.

This is the first year I've add to:
add shock to the pool (first time we've purchased shock)
add 3" chlorine tablets to the Pentair Model #300 chlorine feeder (heck, until this year I didn't even know this component was part of the system. When I opened the top, it was empty.)
brush the pool

Like I said, it has been basically maintenance free.

As of this AM, the pool readings were:
ch1 (?) = 0
Ph = 7.6
TA = 120
Calh = 300
Cya = 0
Salt = 2,600
Phos (?) = 0
Note: Last week we had over 5" of rain here (maybe 6 to 6.5". Rain gauge topped out at 5") And we had around 1.25" since yesterday.
I just added 2 bags of salt, so reading/salt level is coming up.
I just installed the new flow switch yesterday evening. And have been running the Super Chlorinator setting for around 20 hours now.

Thanks in advance for all your suggestions and guidance

 

[duraleigh]

Hey,

Thanks for the test results....that's tells everyone a lot. You need Clorox bleach and stabilizer in your pool right away.

Assuming your water is clear, I would put one of the very large (1.42 gal) of clorox into your pool immediately.

When you pick up the Clorox (get 3 or so jugs) also pick up 8 lbs of stabilizer and introduce that into your pool....IF you're sure your pool is 16,000 gallons.

Put in the stabilizer tonight if you can. pour it slowly into the skimmer and then don't backwash for a week.

Now, if your pool is not crystal clear, you'll need to do something different....post back and tell us how your water looks.

 

[PoolGuyNJ]

Using the Boost cycle on the cell is generally frowned on. It just shortens the cells life and can't produce enough to play catch up in a reasonable amount of time. The cells are great for maintaining, not shocking. The use of 6% bleach such as Chlorox or Great Value (Wal-Mart's house brand), or 12% from a pool store (shop around) usually give the best bang for the buck and don't add unwanted calcium or CYA.

Skip the $70 bucket of tabs and algaecide. Not needed. It's great to have the feeder when you have a new plaster finish since you shouldn't add salt to most fresh finishes.

When you have visible algae, shocking will kill it. Wait 24 hours after shocking and vacuum it out. Then brush the walls. Run the pump until the pool is clean and balanced.

Scott

 

[CC57]

So if I'm following evryone's advice, I should pour in 1.42 gallons of Clorox and add stabilzer.

If y'all don't mind, please answer some questions:

What is "stabilizer"?
What is "backwashing" and how do you do it?

I realize these are probably defined somewhere on this site/forum, but I haven't read through all of it yet.

And if y'all don't mind, I'll probably continue to badger you with questions until such time as I've had time to read through pool school, the other maintenance sections, etc.

And thank you very much for your guidance

 

[Barbara C]

Hi! and Welcome!!!!

Stabilizer is also known as condition or more accurately Cyanuric acid. It protects FC from sunlight. It has other functions too but for the moment you need the protection for your free chlorine. You can get it from walmart in the pool section. It should be labeled as stabilizer and conditioner. The active ingredient list will show Cyanuric acid at 96%. A pool store should have some for about twice the price that is 100% but the walmart stuff is good.

Since I don't know much about inground pools I'll let someone tell you about backwashing!

 

[Guest]

Back-washing is not needed for you, since you have a cartridge filter (it is needed for DE and sand filters). No need for you to worry about this!

I just want to clarify a bit for you; your pool has not been "maintenance free" :-D I think you've been lucky (especially by reading some of your numbers) and have got away with minimum attention for quite a long time. I don't say this to be rude, as there are an awful lot of folks like you out there that "maintain" their pools the same way. It works for a while, but it will eventually catch up with you.

It is great that you have found the page, and you will get any and all questions that you may have answered here. Please invest in a good test kit and quit having the pool stores test for you (they tend to be very inaccurate). You also do not need to be buying all of the potions and magic elixirs that they are selling you! Go to Pool School and take the time to read and learn how to do this yourself. It really is pretty easy, and you can do it. Accurate pool water numbers are the key though, so you really need to have a good kit to have a fighting chance!

Welcome to the page!