Autopilot Digital Install Questions

[donaldm823]

Just ordered a new Autopilot Digital with SC-60 cell from Aquasuperstore and have some questions. I have a 24" horizontal run of 2"D PVC on the outlet of my Raypack gas heater which goes to the 3 way valve sending the filter/heater discharge to the pool. Based on my measurments the manifold width is enough to clear the Nature 2 manifold that is on the heater inlet pipe. Have the following install questions:

1-How best to install the manifold? Since my heater discharge is 2"D and hard piped to the 3way outlet valve, how do I glue the manifold into the 10inch space that I just cut out (the PVC may not have enough give to spring open)

2-Would I be better to use 2"D unions on the straight run of pipe vice hard gluing the manifold in?

3-If I use unions, what type should I buy to prevent leakage since this section will be under as much as 35psi pressure.

I posted this same message on the pool forum-but reposted here since I could attach a picture

 

[JasonLion]

I would go with unions. Standard schedule 40 unions are rated for 100+ PSI. There would probably be enough flex to get it in without the unions, but it would be a very difficult fit and there would be no way to twist the final joint without doing both ends at once (which requires several extra hands and some luck in my experience).

It looks like you can probably fit the manifold so it is centered on the Nature2 unit with the top extending over the Nature2. I can't be sure, but it looks like there will be enough room to clear the Nature2 even with the unions.

There is really only one critical measurement. Glue one end of the unions to the manifold with short bits of pipe and then measure the total width of the manifold with the unions. Then take care to cut out exactly the right amount of pipe, allowing for the width of the joints and union ends that will be attached to the pipe. If you get that measurement right and push the unions all the way onto the pipe ends, everything should go very quickly.

 

[Poolsean]

It looks like the union on the outlet of the heater can be removed to give you the flex you need without any extra unions.
As Jason said, there should be enough flex as it appears in your photos.

IF you winterize your pool, then it would be a good idea to install with unions so you can remove it for storage, as necesary.

 

[donaldm823]

Autopilot Install with Unions

I would go with unions. Standard schedule 40 unions are rated for 100+ PSI. There would probably be enough flex to get it in without the unions, but it would be a very difficult fit and there would be no way to twist the final joint without doing both ends at once (which requires several extra hands and some luck in my experience).

It looks like you can probably fit the manifold so it is centered on the Nature2 unit with the top extending over the Nature2. I can't be sure, but it looks like there will be enough room to clear the Nature2 even with the unions.

There is really only one critical measurement. Glue one end of the unions to the manifold with short bits of pipe and then measure the total width of the manifold with the unions. Then take care to cut out exactly the right amount of pipe, allowing for the width of the joints and union ends that will be attached to the pipe. If you get that measurement right and push the unions all the way onto the pipe ends, everything should go very quickly.

Thanks Jason. I installed my new Autopilot yesterday using 2inch unions I bought at Home Depot. The unions came with o-rings, so the o-rings made up for any pipe misalignment, and I had no leaks!!.. Of interest, I only had to add 300lbs of salt (30000 gal pool), whereas a "virgin" pool required 756 lbs. Have not figured where the extra salt came from other than 1 pool season of chemicals (Tri) and this years use of chlorox. Anyway, the Autopilot salt measures 2900ppm, and so does my Taylor titrant. For any other DIY, unions is the only way to go. But remember to allow time for the glue to cure (2 hr) before starting that pump

 

[smsprague]

Don,

Did you get your salt measured at a pool store? I had the same situation as you and it turned out that the AutoPilot salt reading was off. This caused the cell to read low volts and think it needed to be cleaned. I then had the salt measured at a pool store and used the calibration feature on the AutoPilot and all is well know.

Mark

 

[donaldm823]

Don,

Did you get your salt measured at a pool store? I had the same situation as you and it turned out that the AutoPilot salt reading was off. This caused the cell to read low volts and think it needed to be cleaned. I then had the salt measured at a pool store and used the calibration feature on the AutoPilot and all is well know.

Mark

No store analysis-I bought a Taylor titrant kit K-1766 to measure salt. It came up with 1500ppm before adding salt. After the 300lb add it came up with 2800ppm. Yesterday it read 2900lb afer I shocked the pool prior to the install of autopilot. Autopilot today measures 3100ppm, so I am reasonably sure there really is 3000ppm or so salt in the pool The cell measures 6.5 amps which is the spec for power 2. Also after running the autopilot for 24 hrs it is putting out 1.5ppm chlorine for a 10hr run at 50%, power 2, so all checks. Still, where did my salt come from?? is adding chlorox really adding that much salt?. This is my first year of using chlorox, so I am surprised my salt content built up so quickly

 

[JasonLion]

You get something like 1.6 ppm of salt for each ppm of chlorine from bleach. If you can estimate your chlorine usage for the year we could get some idea of what your salt should have been.

1500 ppm sounds really high for never having added salt.

 

[donaldm823]

You get something like 1.6 ppm of salt for each ppm of chlorine from bleach. If you can estimate your chlorine usage for the year we could get some idea of what your salt should have been.

1500 ppm sounds really high for never having added salt.

Using your thumbrules, I estimate 1.5ppm per day x 92 days plus 5 shocks at 15ppm. That equates to 340ppm, this year. I also used Tri, Jacks last year and had the pool open 150 days (first year) so that equates to 580ppm. So that totals out at 1000ppm. I rechecked my test results, and the Taylors prior to the add was between 1200 and 1400ppm. (first time use, so I rechecked).

I guess the salt is the chlorine-which means there must be a lot of pools out there with salt ppm way up there. Of course, this does not figure out salt loss due to backwashing and kids!! Did I really calculate this correctly, Jason or is it just wishful thinking?

 

[JasonLion]

That sounds about right. There will also have been some salt in some of the other chemicals, so that brings you up to the 1200-1400 range, assuming no water replacement during that period.

 

[donaldm823]

That sounds about right. There will also have been some salt in some of the other chemicals, so that brings you up to the 1200-1400 range, assuming no water replacement during that period.

Unbelievable. I do not think people on this forum realize the salt content of their pools, and the fact it will keep building and building each year (500ppm per year for my 30,000 gal pool-will be higher for a smaller pool). I certainly did not realize it. I left the TRI camp bacause my CYA was rising. Now I find that the BBB method adds salt. What do we do when the salt gets too high other than shift to a SWG. For most of us, we can not drain/refill due to the hydrostatic pressure in the ground causing our inground pool to rise out of the ground?

 

[JasonLion]

All chlorine sources except SWGs add salt. Bleach adds the most, almost twice as much as the others.