No Free Chlorine, pool is cloudy...high phosphates

Thank you all. I have just ordered the TF100 test kit online, and will post readings as soon as I get the kit. This is the 4th day that I have been shocking the pool (started Friday 6/18 at 1PM). We just added 2 gal of chlorine this morning as we had covered the pool last night due to the rainy forecast and this morning the FC dropped from bright purple last night, to very slight purple this morning. This was the most significant overnight drop since we started shocking. The water seems ever so slightly clearer than it has been.

Concern and a little history:
Saleine level is higher at 3.8 than the Jandy manual calls for of 3.0-3.5. I am wondering if this is part of the problem? Since this has been going on for the past 1.5 years (it is particularly concerning now since we totally replaced the Jandy unit in May $$$ because we were told that the circuit board and cell were both bad and likely the cause of our problems). Late last year and early this year we drained about 3 feet of water, maybe more, in hopes that this would help.
 
For now I suggest focusing on shocking the pool, with such a significant overnight loss clearly the organics are the likely source of the cloudiness. Once you get your kit and the FC is holding overnight you can troubleshoot the SWG unit. Until you determine what if any problems exist with it you'll need to manually chlorinate with bleach.
 
My pool is almost clear. This morning the FC dropped again from bright purple on the stick (still awaiting my TF100 kit to arrive) I added more chlorine.
I think I will soon be looking to find the root cause of my problems. I believe that is the saline level that is prohibiting the SWG from manufacturing chlorine. Any ideas on what I can do to reduce the saline level from 3.9 to a level of 3.0-3.5, which is recommended by Jandy?
 
The only way to reduce salt level is to do a partial drain and refill. If I assume the 3.9 on the Jandy means the same as 3900 ppm, poolcalculator.com says you need to replace 18% of your water to go from 3900 ppm to 3200 ppm. That's about 5000 gallons.
 
UPDATE: My test kit has not yet arrived, hopefully it will today. I undestand that my salt level is not directly responsible for my cloudy situation, however, I think the SWG is not making chlorine because the sale level is too high.
My pool is crystal clear this morning and I have almost NO FC reading.
 
If the salt level is too high for the SWG it will display an error code. If you haven't seen any error codes, the SWG should be producing chlorine normally.

You need to manually shock the pool until you can maintain an FC level overnight. Once that happens the SWG will be able to keep up again.
 
Hang in there until your test kit comes and you can do an overnight FC loss test. Once that comes back with 1 ppm or less overnight FC loss and .5 ppm or less CC, there will be things we can do to help tell what your SWCG is doing. You have that turned off while you're shocking the pool, right? Otherwise you're just shortening cell life.
 

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Tom, I think you could just save yourself some headache and stop looking at the salt reading for now. The salt reading will go up with liquid chlorine (2 ppm salt for every ppm FC). So, if you've added 100 ppm FC cumulatively, your salt would go up from 3800 to 4000. Regardless, I think you should concentrate on one thing at a time, and deal with that later (if any action is even necessary).
 
The salt reading is also somewhat sensitive to temperature. You will usually se a slightly higher salt reading when the water is warm, compared to when it is cold, even though the salt level is not changing.
 

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