I need a little advice please

[jkahn]

This is my first post,so ,please bear with me.
I recently rebuilt the pool/fishpond at my new house in South Eastern PA.
It is a 48,000 gal 40 year old Sylvan that had popped probably 20 years ago.
In it were 400 fish,500 lbs of aquatic plants,snakes,frogs,snapping turtles and 3,000 gal of muck too thick to pump.
The concrete deck was ripped up,all plumbing broken or missing and a bit tilted.
The pool is 9 inches higher in one corner. It's a 34'/34'/34' triangle
With the phone help of John Galchus from poolcenter.com I spent the most agonizing summer of my life rebuilding it.
present readings from my K-2006 test kit are
Temp 74
FC 2
CC no reading
PH 7.8
TA 120
CH 200
CYA 65-70
The only pool store in the area that knew about SWGs also sells Mineral Springs Biogard(remember I am new to all this).
I was on their very expensive program all last year,the pool never had a cloudy day and my girlfriend's/wife's skin rash that happens every summer cleared up completely. Was that from the salt water,or, the magic minerals?

In reading in pool school about SWGs I find CH levels for all types of pools except Epoxy painted. I could not plaster because
the tilt of the pool would have meant several rows of tiles.What is the proper CH for epoxy?

I am presently trying to lower my TA by angling my returns upward to break the surface of the water as described in pool school. Is this the correct thing to do?

The pool is presently clean and sparkling,any advise from you kind people would be much appreciated.
Thanks

 

[dmanb2b]

Welcome to TFP....your FC is a little low. Given your CYA level, you should target 5-8ppm. Also aeration raises PH without effecting TA. Once you add Muratic acid to lower PH, the muratic acid lowers TA as well.

 

[coloeb]

I believe he was trying to airate after adding MA so he could add more MA and reduce TA further. That sounds like a huge undertaking to rebuild that pool, glad to hear you are now enjoying it. I would treat that pool the same as I would a concrete pool for CH purposes. Low CH water can still draw calcium through the paint.

 

[jkahn]

Thank you for such fast replys.
I just turned up the SWG and am heading out to get some more acid.

 

[dmanb2b]

I believe he was trying to airate after adding MA so he could add more MA and reduce TA further. That sounds like a huge undertaking to rebuild that pool, glad to hear you are now enjoying it. I would treat that pool the same as I would a concrete pool for CH purposes. Low CH water can still draw calcium through the paint.

That may the case, but the post is not clear...and often folks get confused on what the process is. Muratic Acid additions lower PH and TA. Angling the returns upward, hence breaking the water surface, would potentially provide a source of aeration and it's effect would be a raise in PH only.

 

[Melt In The Sun]

Welcome to TFP! How bout some pictures? I've never seen a triangular pool...

 

[jkahn]

Melt In The Sun, I would be proud to post some pictures,as soon as I figure out how to do that.

 

[Butterfly]

Melt In The Sun, I would be proud to post some pictures,as soon as I figure out how to do that.

You can upload your photos to Photobucket.com.

Then copy the IMG code and paste it in your message here. Choose the "large" size when uploading.

It's easy, fast and free

 

[duraleigh]

Welcome to the forum!

If it were my pool, I would do what others have already suggested.......

1. Raise the FC up in the 5-8 range (keep it there.....don't let it go below)

2. Stop aerating and reduce both the TA and pH by the addition of muriatic acid. Bring the pH down to around 7.4 or so and let the TA fall where it may.

3. Go swimming and enjoy your pool and all your hard work.

I triangular pool may be a first on the forum....love to see a pic when you figure out how.