Advice about a drip

[swimmin6]

The joint where the pipe into my pump joins the suction-side Jandy valve has been moist, but is now dripping. I've searched the forums and seen ideas about patching and repairing which have been helpful. I'd like some advice on the best way to fix this particular issue because it's all plumbed very tightly. I'm game for trying the Jedi pipe-saving technique on the valve or T's if needed.

An unrelated issue is that the ball valves on the returns are somewhat difficult to turn (the girls have me or an older boy do it), so it may be an opportunistic time to replace those, although I'm not looking for ways to spend more time on this!

I've attached photos to cut a few thousand words from my post. The red ellipse shows the leaking joint.

Thanks in advance for all your help. I've been using BBB since last season and appreciate the knowledge you've all shared.

Bryan

 

[Guest]

It is hard to tell from the picture, but it looks like that area (where the drip is coming from) has been "repaired" or addressed before. Looks like it may have had a bad joint initially and someone tried to smear some glue around it to stop the leak. I would cut it out and re-do it (and put a threaded fitting on the pump side for when you need to replace the pump, while you are at it).

Ball valves are notorious for getting hard to turn. You'll have to replace them at some point (probably when the handle crack, which it typical!). Not much you can do with them, unfortunately.

 

[waste]

Welcome to TFP!!

It's hard to tell from the pic but this looks like an incredibly easy fix :-D

What you want to do is go to a plumbing store that carries schedule 40 PVC pipe and fittings. From them procure (preferably by buying ) 1 2.5" coupling, 1 2" male adapter, 1' of 2" pipe and a 2" slip X slip union, glue and primer.

We're going to take advantage of a cool feature of your Jandy 3 port valve: the outer diameter of the ports is sized to accept 2.5" fittings The 2" union will similarly accept 2.5" fittings (at least Hayward unions do).

The only thing I'm worried about is having enough room to add the union - if there isn't, ditch the union and get a 2.5 to 2" reducer. The union would be very nice to have, but isn't essential.

I don't know if you need a primer on working with PVC, if you do, all you need do is ask.

Good luck with the repair!


(Bruce, congrats on 800 posts!! )

 

[Guest]

Welcome to TFP!!

It's hard to tell from the pic but this looks like an incredibly easy fix :-D

What you want to do is go to a plumbing store that carries schedule 40 PVC pipe and fittings. From them procure (preferably by buying ) 1 2.5" coupling, 1 2" male adapter, 1' of 2" pipe and a 2" slip X slip union, glue and primer.

We're going to take advantage of a cool feature of your Jandy 3 port valve: the outer diameter of the ports is sized to accept 2.5" fittings The 2" union will similarly accept 2.5" fittings (at least Hayward unions do).

The only thing I'm worried about is having enough room to add the union - if there isn't, ditch the union and get a 2.5 to 2" reducer. The union would be very nice to have, but isn't essential.

I don't know if you need a primer on working with PVC, if you do, all you need do is ask.

Good luck with the repair!


(Bruce, congrats on 800 posts!! )

You are way too observant, Ted :lol: I didn't even notice that (what do I win )!

 

[CUTiger78]

I don't know if you need a primer on working with PVC, if you do, all you need do is ask.

I could use a PVC primer! Have you got a link to one, kinda like Pool School?

Thanks!

 

[waste]

I don't know if you need a primer on working with PVC, if you do, all you need do is ask.

I could use a PVC primer! Have you got a link to one, kinda like Pool School?

Thanks!

Start a new post on this and tell us what you want to do/ change and we'll gladly tell you what and how to do things (I've got a couple posts out there telling the quester detailed advice on replumbing a line or 2

Pics always help!