A year later and pool is cloudy

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R

rezasaba

0
Jul 4, 2008
154
NJ USA
Hi Frust. mom I am back LOL :hammer:
ok here are my #s
FC=14
CC= 0
TC= 14
PH=6.8
TA=90
CH=120
CYA= 60
ok i open the pool last Sunday i just looked at my post from last year i had the same problem :( ok here is the info.., changed the sand in the filter added 4 Gallons of Bleach and run my pump for the last 4 days keep in mined when there was alot of leaves and organic particles mostly from trees in my pool my robot cleaner is also working full time cleaning the pool . The water has gotten clearer since last sunday but is not clear all the way. The color of the clorine tester water is almost burnt orange. My chlorinator has 3" tablets in it and is also working the pump is runing full time for now. what should i do to get it clear
also i am out of the chemical for testing the CYA. Thanx Reza
 
Hi Reza :wave:
Now, come on, you know what to do... :whip: :blah:

1. order refills for any test reagents
2. take the chlorine tablets out of the chlorinator your CYA is high enough
3. raise your PH up to 7.4 (do this today, use Borax)
4. Determine your shock level using the CYA chart, and then finish shocking the pool (you aren't at shock level)
5. scoop out as much solid material (leaves and such) cuz they are consuming the chlorine

You're getting there but you just need to do a couple more things (this list :wink: )

Makes sense? :goodjob:

Hope this helps, post back I'm still around, LOL
 
hi look this year i like to keep the chlorine tab in the chlorinator i am not going to be able to keep adding bleach due to work and other things so the chlorinator has to do. i will add borax , not sure how much more shock i shoud add to raise it ??? i was thinking of taking out some water and adding fresh water. I did get all the leaves and other items out its just cloudy
 
Ok, that's fine if you want to use the chlorinator that's certainly doable - you'll need to drain about 40-50% of the water out to replace with fresh to get the CYA level down to a point where pucks are workable.

Use the pool calc - enter your current FC level in the "now" box and your shock level in the "target" box - get your Shock level from the CYA chart. That will tell you how much chlorine you need to reach shock level. Keep it at shock level until the FC holds overnight, the CC is .5 or less and the pool is clear.

I would go ahead and do the partial drain first before you continue shocking. :)
 
ok i dumped some water and added some the pool looks clear already :party: then i added 4 LBS of Mule powder , the calculator tells me to add two boxes , for now i see what the #s are then i add the second box if needed , PUMP is runing around the clock, i added one large jug of bleach and one bag of granular shock thats all i had when i get in later after watching the WC i check #s and post it Thanx MOM BTW how do i order CYA test liquid?? :rant:
 
Thanx I will get it,
my pool water is 90% clear but the PH keeps droping to 6.8 range from 7.2 i use the 3" teblets in the chlorinator as said before also the chlorine level is still higher than 10 but its coming down little by little , is the PH drop due to useage of tablets? and what can i do to stablize the PH # ? Thanx Reza
 

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rezasaba said:
should i once a week shock the pool with large jug of Bleach???
Click to expand...

Nope...if you keep your FC where it should be and CC's are low, there is no need to shock unless you want to spend more money on bleach :goodjob: A lot of us go all season without shocking
 
Ok I am back with the same problem How ya all doin?? I open the pool 3 days ago water was clear some worms and other creatures had moved into the pool but i got them out , threw the Robot in and got the pump and filter going with in one hour the pool water was cloudy??? why is that. i am using 3" chlorine tablets . tested the water this morning
FC=5
CC=0
PH=6.8
TA=60 ???? not sure why so low
CH=140
I added one gal. of chlorine this afternoon , pump has been runing 24/7. the water is milky cloudy so i got to keep adding bleach every night??
 
You need to get both PH and TA up right away. Chlorine tablets are very acidic. Any time you are using them you need to constantly raise the PH and TA back up to compensate.

The milky water is probably from debris stirred up that had been sitting on the bottom of the pool. You need to make sure it isn't from algae by adding enough chlorine to make sure all of the algae is dead. You didn't mention what your CYA level was, so it is impossible for us to tell if you are using enough chlorine.

The filter will get all of the milkiness out of the water eventually assuming there isn't any algae. If you have a sand filter, adding a little DE, as described in Pool School, can speed up clearing of the water. Just make sure the algae is all dead first.
 
Hi Jason got some new #s again tested this morning
FC=15
CC=1 or 2,,,, not sure ?? at best neglegable
PH=7.5
TA=140
CYA=30
CH=50
may Calcium is low should i add calcium to water ?? will that help clear the water ?? or just let it go for now
i let the filter go 24/7 for now water still cloudy (milky)
very tempted to use the Blue stuff from lesli`s to clear the water but past experience was that such move will bring back the Gray stain on the surface of the Fiberglass. I also read the section about adding DE, did you guys just add this to the site about DE adding to sand filters??? never saw it before !!! you should have seen the look on the salesman at lesli`s it was comical when i asked about the DE he said no no no you have sand filter.. do not use DE in it, ever. anyway what should i do?? what are these particles in my water??? that makes the water look so milky??
 
Hi ,did the over night test , hardly any change in FC , water still milky, brushed the pool a few times and TA=140 ,PH=7.5 my FC held at 15 over night i will check again in the morning we had lots of down pours yesteday so . the particles are so fine in the water cant even feel them. not sure to use the Blue stuff from leslie or try the DE powder?? any suggestion??? how long will it take for the DE powder to work when you add it to sand Filter?? will the water clear within 24 hours?? :hammer:
 
On the overnight test did you check the CC as well? That needs to be at less then 0.5ppm before you stop shocking. To pass the overnight test you FC needs to drop less then 1ppm and CC needs to be at 0.5ppm or less. Are you sure the gallons of your pool are correct? I know it is an irregular shaped pool but 18x44 is still a good sized pool and if it has a deep end 19000 seems low. I would go with the DE before the blue stuff. I have never used it in my sand filter but I will be adding it next week to polish my pool water.
 

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