Trying hard not to listen to the non TFP morons

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hawkeyes

hawkeyes

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LifeTime Supporter
Mar 25, 2010
100
Dallas, TX
I swear that I've read Pool School at least 5 times. I've read the SWG page. I've read the worthless manual that came with my sytem. And I'm trying REALLY HARD not to listen to Leslie's and my pool warranty lady (who I cannot STAND, by the way).

So my question is regarding my SWG and chlorine output levels. My FC tests at 1.5 today and CC at .5 . How do I know when the levels will come up on their own by dialing up my cell output percentage (which was at 50% and I dialed it up to 80 at advice of warranty witch) this morning OR when I need to manually add bleach or shock? According to the CYA/Chlorine chart I need to have a minimum FC of 4 and target 6. Warranty witch said to dial up to 80 and shock.

Readings:
FC 1.5
CC .5
TC 2.0
pH 7.5
TA 80
CH 360
CYA 80
Salt 4200 (geez...this is what my digital readout says....I don't have test strips for salt). Leslie's printout says 3100 (maybe that is as high as theirs reads???)

So do I add pool calcuator bleach amounts and put 4 in the Target column to get calculation? Do I leave my intellichlor at 80? For how long? It is HOT here---pool temp is at 89 already. My CSI is -.37. :shaking:
 
1st, TC is 2, not 1. TC = FC+CC

FC should equal about 10% of CYA level, or in your case, 8. This level will likely kill your CC too.

I have to agree with warranty witch, assuming you have and IC40. Add some Clorox in the meantime and see if the new level holds where it's needed.

Scott
 
Add some extra chlorine today. Raise the FC level a fair bit above your target to help take care of the CC. PoolGuyNJ's suggestion of 8 sounds good. Leave the SWG at 80%.

Tomorrow, if the FC level has dropped significantly you will need to shock. Otherwise measure the FC level in the evening each day for a couple of days and watch what it does.
 
The warranty lady is telling you to shock the pool. Maybe you need to, maybe you dont. First, I need to know if you have an IC-40 or 20? Then, we can walk you through an overnight chlorine los test. That will tell you if you really need to shock. The idea here is to try and figure out if you are not getting a high enough Fc level becasue you have organics, or if the intellichlor is not keeping up for other reasons.
 
Only thing i would ad to jason's advice is to turn off the SWCG after dark, measure the chlorine level, then in the morning, before the sun hits the pool, measure it again. If it has fallen more than .5 -1 ppm, you probably need to shock. But the intellichlor has to be off overnight so the overnight test will work.
 
JasonLion said:
Add some extra chlorine today. Raise the FC level a fair bit above your target to help take care of the CC. PoolGuyNJ's suggestion of 8 sounds good. Leave the SWG at 80%.

Tomorrow, if the FC level has dropped significantly you will need to shock. Otherwise measure the FC level in the evening each day for a couple of days and watch what it does.
Click to expand...

Ok...so I put 8 in as the chlorine target in the pool calculator?
 
ok, with a 22,000 gallon pool, an IC-40, a 50% setting (at 9 hours pump time that 4.5 hours of on time for the IC-40), and a CYA level of 80, you probalby should have an FC level above what you have.

Take the above advice and raise the FC to 8 with bleach. Then do the overnight test with the IC-40 off. If you have a loss of >1, you need to shock. If it holds, we can cross that when we get there.
 

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bk406 said:
Two more questions, whats the salt reading on your Easytouch? And..when you set your IC-40 to a higher percentage, does the cell light come on?

hawkeyes said:
Ok...so I put 8 in as the chlorine target in the pool calculator?
Click to expand...
Yes
Click to expand...


This was the reason I called the warranty witch to begin with today. I had my easy touch set at 50%. When I looked at the intellichor equipment today the green light was on at 60%. I called because I wondered why they were different. The salt reading on my EasyTouch says 4200 ppm. When I changed the EasyTouch percentage the sanitizer output green light *did* go up to 80 on the equipment.

I also just upped the run time to 9 hours from 8 hours 5 days ago and took the intellichlor from 40 to 50 at that time---so it has only been at 9/50 (from 8/40) for about 5 days.

274 oz of bleach. Holy Crud!
 
274 ounces is only 2 gallons. If you need to bring it to shock level with a CYA of 80, it will take 21 ppm of chlorine to get it to shock level. So, quite a bit more than 2 gallons. Lots of bleach, but vert doable.

Actually, the green light I was referring to is the CELL light. Thats the one that lights green when the cell is making chlorine. Also, at 4200, the IC-40 salt light should be flashing green telling you the salt is too high. Is it?

The Easytouch lets you set the on time at intervals down to 1%. since there is no 50% the 60% light was/is lit on the IC-40.
 
The cell light is not flashing green indicating high salt...it's just solid green. I, too, wondered why it wouldn't be flashing at the readout level of 4200. :?:

Added the bleach. Will test chlorine levels tomorrow morning b4 the sun hits the pool and post back with results. Thank you to everyone! :goodjob:
 
Tested the chlorine a few minutes ago to see what it was....ummm...it's reading at 11 with no CC. SWG is off and will test in the morning and report back with results.

primetime...my diagnostics say all is ok.
 
hawkeyes said:
The cell light is not flashing green indicating high salt...it's just solid green. :
Click to expand...
The cell light is not the one you look at for high salt. The salt indicator lights are at the top of the cell. You might want to pull out the manual and refamiliarize yourself with the indicator lights and what they mean.

Primetime, you should really start a new thread with your issue. Helping 2 people out on a single thread with two different issues gets confusing.
 
bk406 said:
hawkeyes said:
The cell light is not flashing green indicating high salt...it's just solid green. :
Click to expand...
The cell light is not the one you look at for high salt. The salt indicator lights are at the top of the cell. You might want to pull out the manual and refamiliarize yourself with the indicator lights and what they mean.
Click to expand...

The cell light is green. The salt level light is green and not flashing. FC this morning is 9.5 CC turned ever so slightly pink .5. All equipment was off overnight and kicked back on 10 minutes ago. Tested before it came on.

Now what?
 

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