Greetings,
My pool water is crystal clear. I have the following:
FC 3-5
pH 7.2
TA 230
CH 150
CYA 50
Should I be concerned about the high TA and/or low CH?
Thanks!
Mark
Greetings,
My pool water is crystal clear. I have the following:
FC 3-5
pH 7.2
TA 230
CH 150
CYA 50
Should I be concerned about the high TA and/or low CH?
Thanks!
Mark
Mark Stinson
Woodland, CA
IG 12,545g Gunite/Plaster with attached spa, Hayward Northstar 3HP pump, Pentair Clean & Clear Plus 420
Alas, I have no heater for my spa (yet)! :-(
You should be concerned about the low CH for the sake of your plaster.
If you just maintain your pH in the lower end of the range, TA will drop over time.
TFP Moderator
20K Gallon 20X36 Vinyl Inground
Hayward S244T Sand Filter with 1HP Whisperflo Pump. Liquidator C-201 and Solar Heat
Your FC is 3-5?
With CYA of 50, your maintenance range is 4 to 8.
How are you testing?
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You're done SLAMing when:
1)You lose 1ppm or less FC overnight, & 2)You have .5ppm CC's or less, & 3)your water is clear.
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Thanks for the super fast replies!
I should have noted that I have been lowering the pH. It was 7.8. M
I haven't added any liquid chlorine in several days as I have been trying to bring down the pH and didn't want to add both chemicals on the same day. I tested with my new TF-100 kit. I used the FAS-DPD test for FC.
Mark Stinson
Woodland, CA
IG 12,545g Gunite/Plaster with attached spa, Hayward Northstar 3HP pump, Pentair Clean & Clear Plus 420
Alas, I have no heater for my spa (yet)! :-(
There is NO problem adding both chems on the same day, just make sure to have about 30 minutes pump time in between.Originally Posted by ReluctantPoolBoy
I suggest you add chlorine each evening up to your target level.
That is what most of us "Jug Dumpers" do(thanks for that svenpup
)
TFP Moderator TF100 Test Kit TF100 TestKit YouTube Channel PoolMath
You're done SLAMing when:
1)You lose 1ppm or less FC overnight, & 2)You have .5ppm CC's or less, & 3)your water is clear.
~ One should not use a sledge hammer to swat a mosquito. ~
If you found TFP helpful and we saved you money ... Become a TFP Supporter!
I find the CH number hard to believe, since you're in California. My tap water runs almost 300 CH! You didn't transpose the TA and CH numbers by chance?Originally Posted by ReluctantPoolBoy
16K freeform gunite with spa; Pentair 4000 DE filter; Century Whisperflow 1 HP; Pentair Minimax heater.
Troublefree does not mean Maintenancefree. It's like brushing your teeth: You can spend a couple minutes a day and pennies a week or go to the dentist once a year and spend several thousand dollars.
A pool is like a pet - you have to feed it every day, even the days you don't want to play with it!
I tested it twice for the same reason!Originally Posted by Richard320
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Mark Stinson
Woodland, CA
IG 12,545g Gunite/Plaster with attached spa, Hayward Northstar 3HP pump, Pentair Clean & Clear Plus 420
Alas, I have no heater for my spa (yet)! :-(
Greetings!
I have been maintaining my target FC and a slightly lower than target pH. Just as John T. said, my TA is slowly dropping. It's now 180. Unfortunately, my CH is also dropping. It's now down to 100. I'm concerned about the low CH number. Is it time to add some calcium chloride?
TEST 4/11 6/27
------------------
FC 7 7
TC 7 7
pH 7.2 7.2
TA 230 180
CH 150 100
CYA 50 60
Mark Stinson
Woodland, CA
IG 12,545g Gunite/Plaster with attached spa, Hayward Northstar 3HP pump, Pentair Clean & Clear Plus 420
Alas, I have no heater for my spa (yet)! :-(
CH doesn't just drop like that, so I suspect there is a testing error of some kind.
For a plaster pool, you should keep CH between 250 and 350, so you definitely need some calcium even if your CH level is still 150.
19K gal, vinyl, 1/2 HP WhisperFlo pump, 200 sqft cartridge filter, AutoPilot Digital SWG, Dolphin Dynamic cleaning robot
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