Jandy AquaPure 1400 - doesn't work and give HH code.

dayhiker

0
LifeTime Supporter
Jun 6, 2008
304
Pell City, AL
I've suspected over the last few weeks that my Salt Generator hasn't been producing enough chlorine. I first wondered what-if back in March when I couldn't get my FC up after doing an AA treatment for iron. Things went ok until the heat of May hit and I couldn't keep it above 2.0 for any length of time. I left town for vacation on Friday afternoon and came home this morning to a fairly clear pool with some algae on the sides. My wife actually dropped me off at the office on the way into town, so I got the algae report 2nd hand. I've put (7) bottles of 182oz of chlorine in...but I digress.

The swg has the service light on. When I hit the button for salt concentration I get "---" When I hit the temp button I get, "HH" which means "Input has exceeded Maximum Range." Note that there is a different code when there is too much salt. I saw the other thread this morning about another guy having trouble with his swg keeping up and that all sort of sounded like my issue. I took the swg apart from the plumbing and it looked like a series of fins in each end. On the inflow end the fins looked clean. On the effluent end I saw what looked like rust or iron colored material on the fins. It wasn't in a rust pattern but rather a water flow pattern. I guess maybe 30% of the fins were covered. We do have hard water in my town. I did add about 2" of water on Friday, but that's all I've added probably since last summer. The pool was installed in August 07. I guess I assumed the scale would look like the mineral scale on a hot water heater element (white and crusty) instead of a compact, uniform rust. Is this the typical scale with the iron that's already in my pool just mixed in? If so, I assume I just do the acid treatment? Also, I don't have the spacer or plugs for this unit. I'll go ahead and order the spacer since I'll need it at some point in the future. For plugs, maybe just rubber bands and zip locs since hopefully the acid treatment won't last too long? Am I on the right track or does something else jump out?

Thanks so much for any advice anyone can offer.

FC 0.5
CC 2.0
pH 7.5
Alk - probably around 70.
CYA - it's around 60, but we did get a good bit of rain while it was gone. I'm pulling up around 70 after this is all over.
 
Re: Jandy AquaPure 1400 - how to diagnose scale?

I don't have the plugs so I had to put the whole thing in the acid wash. The rust color on the fins got lighter, but I couldn't get rid of them. I tried to get them off with a qtip, but the fins are too close for the qtip to fit between. I hooked everything back up and it still says to service it and gives the code HH. I'm at a loss as what to do next. I guess I'll try to find plugs to buy and try again and just be on bleach until then. This sucks.
 
I have never heard of the display showing the messages you describe. However, I'm not completely up on every possible AquaPure display code. From the sound of things, the controller thinks the salt and temperature are both way out of range. That suggests to me that there could be a problem with the cable between the sensor and the control unit. Make sure both ends are firmly connected and that the cable isn't cut anywhere.

Other than that, I really have no idea.
 
thx. Any thoughts on the rust colored film? Is that probably scale with iron embedded? Also, how much scale does it take to effect one of these? It doesn't seem like alot is on there to me.

It's now flashing 172 which is "Flow Sensor service condition or flow sensor is unplugged." It says contact authorized representative. Awesome.

(Edit) I screwed the sensor on tighter (small leak) and the 172 code went away. I guess my best option is to talk to Jandy and my installer at this point.

On another front, previously there was a conversation between you and another fellow on an iron thread I had going. The guy talked about high chlorine levels causing the iron to be picked up by the filter. When I got my level up around 25, my steps were shiny and white. Some of the stain has come back now that I'm on the downward end of the chlorine levels. If I hadn't just gotten back from vacation and been tied up I'd have popped open the filter and given it a cleaning. I need to do that today or tomorrow though with all the dead algae in there.
 
Staining is much more likely when FC levels are high, but can happen any time. If you have been using sequestrant, remember that sequestrant breaks down over time and needs to be replaced.

The "iron" stains you describe on the cell plates don't sound like they have anything to do with calcium. Calcium is a distinctive white color. Even when mixed with impurities it will still be tan, and calcium scale is always somewhat "crusty".
 
JasonLion said:
Staining is much more likely when FC levels are high, but can happen any time. If you have been using sequestrant, remember that sequestrant breaks down over time and needs to be replaced.

The "iron" stains you describe on the cell plates don't sound like they have anything to do with calcium. Calcium is a distinctive white color. Even when mixed with impurities it will still be tan, and calcium scale is always somewhat "crusty".

That's what I was expecting to see. I was expecting a scaled (pardon the pun) down version of what I've seen when changing out my hot water heating element. Very irregular, brittle, and white. This was more like a film. It was almost like rubbing a qtip across something that was put on with a permanent marker.

It sure sounds like this is a technical issue and not a scaling/chemistry type of thing.

Yes, I've been using the sequestrant. I put a bottle in before I started shocking. The steps going totally white with the chlorine was just weird though so I thought I'd pass it on.

Thanks for confirming what I was seeing. I didn't think I was seeing scaling on the cell...but I'd never seen the stuff before.
 
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