to get the broken end off the shaft, just cut it off with some dikes or hack saw halfway through, then insert a slotted(flat) screwdriver into the groove and twist until it breaks off
Is this impeller broken?
- Thread starter johnfromphilly
- Start date
Is this what gets removed?
do the red lines show where the two terminals I need to bridge are?
This has been without power for 5 hours and by the time I get to it tomorrow it will be 16 hours at least. Does that cut down on the shock coming from the capacitor?
do the red lines show where the two terminals I need to bridge are?
This has been without power for 5 hours and by the time I get to it tomorrow it will be 16 hours at least. Does that cut down on the shock coming from the capacitor?
Yes, that is it, usually there will be 2 or more connectors on each post, you should have 2 wires one going to each post. It may already be discharged or it may not. Some capacitors can hold a charge for years. Also be careful of the white V shaped part with the copper strips to the right of the capacitor, it can break easily, you may want to remove it just to be safe, it is held in by 1 screw.
Ike
Ike
You don't have to remove it. Just slide a 7/16 wrench up between it then put it on the shaft behind the springs and spin the shaft until it latches down on the shaft, then spin the impeller off counter-clockwise.
- May 3, 2007
- 16,886
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Capacitors in an AC circuit should not actually store any residual charge like DC circuits can. And even if they did, once power is disconnected, any remain energy will be dissipated through the motor windings so I would be very surprised if there was any residual charge on the capacitor at all. Having said that, better safe than sorry. But if anyone has actually measured a residual voltage across a capacitor when the motor is off, I would be interested to hear about it as it would be very unusual if not impossible.
Also, with that motor, you should be able to get to the keyed shaft with an open ended wrench without removing the capacitor.
Also, with that motor, you should be able to get to the keyed shaft with an open ended wrench without removing the capacitor.
I have before, but that WAS an unusual circumstance.mas985 said:
Good call on that, I was thinking that motor had a slotted end for a screwdriver.mas985 said:
DBfan, I would NOT recommend using a hacksaw, you can damage the threads beyond repair if you're not careful. And for someone who has never done it before, there are safer methods, although it may take longer.
Here is the update I promised, hopefully someone else who runs into this problem will find this thread through a search and be able to fix their problem as quickly and easily as I did with this forum's help.
Everything went as planned. Bought new impeller and "go kit" (replacement seal kit) from local pool supply due to wanting to get it going today and ebay was either 7 days or expensive next day shipping.
I decided to remove the "V" shaped grey piece instead of the capacitor and it gave me good access to the shaft which had two flat sides to fit a 7/16" wrench. Picture shows that :
I was then able to hold the shaft with the wrench and use vise grips to easily unscrew the broken piece from the other side of the shaft.
I then put everything back together and installed all new seals while I was at it. Pump started right up and has been running perfectly for hours now.
Thanks to all who contributed to this thread. I would not have had the confidence nor the information needed to do this on my own without this forum. This, IMHO, is what forums are all about. Saved $ by doing it myself and got it done, correctly, in a day.
Thanks again,
John
Everything went as planned. Bought new impeller and "go kit" (replacement seal kit) from local pool supply due to wanting to get it going today and ebay was either 7 days or expensive next day shipping.
I decided to remove the "V" shaped grey piece instead of the capacitor and it gave me good access to the shaft which had two flat sides to fit a 7/16" wrench. Picture shows that :
I was then able to hold the shaft with the wrench and use vise grips to easily unscrew the broken piece from the other side of the shaft.
I then put everything back together and installed all new seals while I was at it. Pump started right up and has been running perfectly for hours now.
Thanks to all who contributed to this thread. I would not have had the confidence nor the information needed to do this on my own without this forum. This, IMHO, is what forums are all about. Saved $ by doing it myself and got it done, correctly, in a day.
Thanks again,
John
Good to hear you got it fixed! I'm glad it unscrewed, instead of breaking off. That's when it gets to be a PITA, and what happened to mine.
Hope you stick around the forums! Take care!
Hope you stick around the forums! Take care!
Sniff, sniff.johnfromphilly said:
I can't help myself. I always cry at stories with happy endings.
:jocolor:
Great job and great update. Thanks for the pictures, it will be a nice place to point people to whenever something like this comes up.
Yeah - sort of like me. Had the exact same failure this past week with a 1HP SuperII Pump. Couple of things of note: (1) I see the new impeller (SPX3010C) has metal threads. Has anyone seen failures of this version yet? (2) I didn't find an impeller ring (Part SP-3005-R on the diagram) on my pump. Anyone know the purpose of this. Seems to run OK without it.
John
John