8' run OK on suction line for Liquidator?

[flyboy320]

I have a very small equipment pad, and as such am limited as to where I can place a Liquidator. The best spot would be right next to the heater, so the In line to the liquidator would be very short (I assume you can tap off a pipe coming out of the heater?), but the line to the pump would be about an 8' run. Would this length of run still work OK (I will be doing the 3/8" tube mod as well)?

 

[Guest]

The feed side of the unit comes in right ahead of the pump; I don't think a longer length of line will pose a problem for drawing the chlorine (bleach) in. The other line should come in after the filter (is there any reason that you can't get it there?). I have about a 5' run on the feed side, and have not done the upgrade, and it works great. I don't know why you would have any problems, especially if you do the upgrade.

 

[flyboy320]

OK, thanks.

The equipment is in the following order. Pump, filter, heater. I guess I could tap the IN line to the Liquidator between the filter and heater (just after the filter), it would just mean a slightly longer run than if I tapped just after the heater due to where the Liquidator will be positioned on the equipment pad.

It will be placed just to the right of the heater in the attached picture (taken last year during the build).

 

[Guest]

I would tap in right after the 3 way Jandy and the pump, in that space between where the PVC is. That is perfect for the feed (OUT) line. I don't know why the IN line would not be fine where you are thinking, as that line replenishes the water in the Liquidator's tank, and you should not have any issues.

Are you going to do the upgrade first, or are you going to try the unit as it came first?

 

[flyboy320]

See the attached picture for my original thinking....

 

[Guest]

That should work just fine!

I'd be interested in how your unit works right out of the box (without the upgrade), as you are 10,000 gallons. I am almost 25,000 gallons, and am running out of the box, with the gauge set at 3-4. Holding 5 ppm easily.

 

[flyboy320]

Cool

I forgot to mention I am going to buy the parts for the 3/8" mod an probably just do it right away.

This is the first summer with the pool, and I'm finding for the last week when it's been full sun, lots of use and lots of pollen in the air, it's using about 5-6ppm chlorine a day (CYA at 40), which works out to be about 1.5 liters, or .4 gal, or 50oz of 12% chlorine a day. So I figure I'll go with the 8 gal one.

 

[Bama Rambler]

Just to echo what Bruce said. It'll be fine to run the tubing that far.

You won't be sorry going with the larger unit!

 

[flyboy320]

Seeing as how I won't be using the off-line chlorinator anymore, is there a plug type of cap that will screw on the tap where the lines from the chlorinator come off the PVC pipe (I'll be using one of the lines from the chlorinator to feed the LQ, but the other line I want to cap off)?

 

[Bama Rambler]

US Plastic has plugs and caps. Ceck when you go to order the upgrade parts and see if they have something that will fit your fitting.

 

[Guest]

I've looked, but have not been able to find one (my plumbing looks a bit like FrankenPlumbing with all the different components I have tried over the years), as I have one in my equipment set as well. It is currently just turned off, and I have had no problem running it that way.

 

[flyboy320]

Ya I'll have to have at look at US Plastics site as I'm ordering all the upgrade parts from them, maybe I'll come across something.

I currently have the chlorinator turned off since I have never used it (the PB installed it when he was building the pool) and like you Bruce, I have not had any trouble with it off. The problem is I might want to use one of the lines to plumb into the liquidator which would leave the other line of the chlorinator open, so I have to figure out a way to cap it.

 

[Bama Rambler]

You could drill & tap the hole it's going into and use a threaded plastic plug to seal it off.

Another point on the LQ upgrade. Use a ton of T-tape on the float valve fittings when installing the threaded hose barb fitting. If you get air in the "out" line during use, you didn't use enough.

 

[flyboy320]

You could drill & tap the hole it's going into and use a threaded plastic plug to seal it off.

You think something like this would work?

I was actually hoping to find something like this that might just screw on top of the existing tap that's already on the PVC pipe, but haven't found anything yet...

Just looking at the Hayward manual and it says to drill a 3/8" hole in the PVC pipe to accept the saddle fitting for the chlorinator. If the PB did drill a 3/8" to install the chlorinator, then I guess all I would have to do is tap the hole for a 3/8" plug and use the plug I linked to in the above paragraph.

 

[Bama Rambler]

When upgrading the LQ you're going to want to drill & tap the pipe anyway so you'll have a drill and tap handy. So the plug you linked to will work. I was actually thinking of something like this to cap off the existing fitting.

 

[flyboy320]

Ah, yes, I think that would work as well....thanks

 

[flyboy320]

Do you happen to know what size fitting the Hayward chlorionator uses (ie. what size nylon thread cap I need, 1/4", 3/8", 1/2")?

 

[Guest]

Do you happen to know what size fitting the Hayward chlorionator uses (ie. what size nylon thread cap I need, 1/4", 3/8", 1/2")?

There is the $64,000 question!I actually took my female end of the fitting to several supply houses this past weekend, trying to find the right size. No luck!

I just bought some new tubing (since mine was starting to leak on top of it!) and put it in a loop and shut the valve to "0". That'll show it!

 

[flyboy320]

There is the $64,000 question!I actually took my female end of the fitting to several supply houses this past weekend, trying to find the right size. No luck!

I just bought some new tubing (since mine was starting to leak on top of it!) and put it in a loop and shut the valve to "0". That'll show it!

I bought a 1/4" and a 3/8" metal cap from Home Depot and I'll try them out in the morning....hopefully one will fit!

 

[Guest]

There is the $64,000 question!I actually took my female end of the fitting to several supply houses this past weekend, trying to find the right size. No luck!

I just bought some new tubing (since mine was starting to leak on top of it!) and put it in a loop and shut the valve to "0". That'll show it!

I bought a 1/4" and a 3/8" metal cap from Home Depot and I'll try them out in the morning....hopefully one will fit!

I am going to wish you luck! Neither of those worked on mine......