Has anyone gone from as swg to bbb? If so are you happier now? What are the pros and cons of doing this?
SWG to BBB
- Thread starter purptiger
- Start date
BBB is testing and understanding your important pool water parameters.......that's it.
SWG is a salt water chlorinator....it puts chlorine in your pool but has no bearing on whther you understand your pool water parameters or not.
SWG is a salt water chlorinator....it puts chlorine in your pool but has no bearing on whther you understand your pool water parameters or not.
- Apr 8, 2007
- 1,616
- Pool Size
- 17450
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
So you are thinking of deactivating your SWG and going back to manually adding the chlorine? I guess if your system is defective or broken in some way there would be a plus to manually adding chlorine in that you would know how much you are puttng in? - the CONS would be that you are purchasing chlorine and manually adding chlorine vs a system that automatically generates it and you don't have to purchase anything extra ......
My swg is working fine. I am just tired of the up and down amounts wiu the ph and ta. With bbb I am not sure I would have this
We can help you eliminate the rapid increase in PH while using the SWG. Often, it just takes a little adjusting of your levels.
Post your water chemistry results. A pool can be very stable with a SWG. I add acid perhaps every two weeks.
These are my latest as of 8:10 am:
fc 2.5
ph 7.3
ta 80
ch 280
cya 60 added 1 lb stabilizer on 5/28
temp 84
salt 3800
swg at 35 %. I am running split shift on pump: 4-8 am and 4-8 pm.
Also just for reference my fill water is
ph 7.2, ta 180, ch 180, and temp is 75.
fc 2.5
ph 7.3
ta 80
ch 280
cya 60 added 1 lb stabilizer on 5/28
temp 84
salt 3800
swg at 35 %. I am running split shift on pump: 4-8 am and 4-8 pm.
Also just for reference my fill water is
ph 7.2, ta 180, ch 180, and temp is 75.
Your relatively high fill water TA does complicate things.
You want CYA around 80, it sounds like you are already headed there.
Let TA come down to 60. Once TA is down to 60, let the PH rise to around 7.7 and see if it will stabilize there. If that doesn't do it, you can try adding borates to help slow down the PH changes.
You want CYA around 80, it sounds like you are already headed there.
Let TA come down to 60. Once TA is down to 60, let the PH rise to around 7.7 and see if it will stabilize there. If that doesn't do it, you can try adding borates to help slow down the PH changes.
I forgot to tell you that I have added borates. I have the Lamotte borate rest strips and I think they tell me I nave 50 ppm. Color seems to match but not the same intensity.
I know the process of MA, to bring ta and ph down. Then one aerate the pool to bring ph back up. The problem is that if I keep aerating the pool the ph will go through the roof and then ta starts to go up. If I turn the jets down the ph still goes due to temp and swg out gasing. Ta will also go up since they seem linked. Not sure what to do.
TA does not go up from aeration. It only goes up if your use a chemical to raise your PH. As the TA goes down, which it will if you continue adding acid and don't add any soda ash, borax, or baking soda, you will eventually get to a point where the PH will stabilize right around 7.7 or 7.8 with the TA around 50 or 60.
However, TA will go up if you have to add any replacement water. Hopefully, during most of the summer it will be humid enough that the rate of evaporation will be low, and you won't have to add very much replacement water.
However, TA will go up if you have to add any replacement water. Hopefully, during most of the summer it will be humid enough that the rate of evaporation will be low, and you won't have to add very much replacement water.
Between 5/30 and 5/31 my ph went from 7.1 to 7.3 and the ta went from 70 to 80. The only thing that I did was to aerate the pool. No chemicals wereadded or water added. So am I missing something?
The TA test is +-10 in that range, so 70 and 80 are the same as each other. There is no telling if TA actually went up or not unless the change is larger than that.
Even with the Taylor K2006 kit. I thought that it was for every10 drops it is plus or minus 10 ppm.
Some SWCG pools will always have a rising pH issue. Even if you have all of the test results in line with the recommendations on this site. You may have one of those pools. I also have one of them. The only solution is to find a ways to automatically add acid. It does not have to be a closed loop system, it can be a s simple as a pump on a timer added a fixed amount of acid each day.
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