First Set of Numbers

Sep 7, 2009
376
Frederick County, MD
Pool Size
19800
Surface
Fiberglass
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-30
OK, a little help needed here......

Just took my first set of numbers and while I am generally happy, I am unsure about a few things.

FC: 2
CC: 0.5
TC: 2.5
pH: 7.5
T/A: 110
CH: 180
CYA: ????

I never really had "red" for my tests. I have the TF-100 kit and by red, I mean the red that is like the cap of the CYA mixing bottle. My reds were mostly a strong pink.

For CYA, I did it 2 different times and the dot was never obscured. Maybe I did something wrong. I filled ot the bottom of the mixing bottle label with pool water, then to the top of the label with R-0013, shoot quite a bit and let it set for well over 30 seconds. That solution never changed color, and when squirting it into the CYA veiw tube, the dot was always visible. Is the result in the mixing bottle supposed to turn a color? Mine remained clear.

Lastly, should I be worried about any of these numbers?

Oh, and I guessed on the pH from the Taylor kit that was included with the TF-100, is that the correct thing to do, or did I miss something?

Thanks in advance for the help.
 
Don't worry about the reds being any specific color. You are looking for anything in the red/pink/yellow family. When the color starts to change, continue adding drops until the water stops changing color. The final drop, which doesn't change the color any further, doesn't count.

You are doing the CYA test correctly. Your CYA is zero.


Your numbers are fairly good. The main issue is raising the CYA level. You should raise your CYA level to around 40 to 50. I would also raise CH to around 250, but there is no hurry on that. Starting 24 hours after you add CYA, you should raise your FC level to be between 4 and 8 and never below 4.
 
Thanks Jason. Being in Silver Spring on such a nice day in MD, I appreciate that you got back to me so quickly.

OK, so I need to add about 132 oz (or 343 of liquid stabilizer) of CYA to get into the 50 range. As you suggested I can deal with the CH later. A few more questions........

Other than a pool store, can I get straight CYA anywhere else, or should I kill 2 birds with one stone and use Cal-Hypo to help out with the FC and CYA? For the CH, can I get the calcium chloride from someplace other than the pool store as well?

Aside from zero CYA, I am off to a good start thanks to the good folks here at TFP.
 
You'll find CYA only at a pool store, or pool dept of a big-box store.

Cal-hypo raises CH by 7 for each 10ppm FC. No CYA. (Dichlor or trichlor have CYA.) I hear you can get calcium in various places but I never paid attention as mine is on the high side.
--paulr
 
Paul:

Thanks for setting me straight (still learning)!


Reading in pool school......
--Dichlor - chemical name is dichloro-s-triazinetrione, also called "pool shock". It frequently comes in small bags. Purchase approximately one pound for each 2,000 gallons, or fraction, of pool water. Dichlor adds both chlorine and CYA (stabilizer . . . "sunscreen" for chlorine). You will only use it for a few days, so don't buy more than what you need.


It looks like I can kill 2 birds (low chlorine and low CYA) with one stone (dichlor). Supposing I add this to raise my chlorine from 2 to 6, would that be OK? In other words Jason suggested that I raise the FC after I fix the CYA. Using dichlor, I can do both but would that be a waste of time and money and I should do them separately?

Oh, and why do I need to raise the FC so high rather than leaving it at 2 which I believe is OK?
 
You can use the Dichlor - it's kinda pricey this way but ok to do it this way if you like... use the "effects of adding chemicals" section of the pool calculator to figure out how much each dose of Dichlor will increase your CYA level and FC level by. (The dichlor also affects the PH).

Right now 2 is your appropriate level but as the CYA level increases, so must your "min" and "target" FC levels - refer to the Chart.
 
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.