About to pull the SWG trigger...final questions

[Steverino]

Hi all,

Gonna do this... Have some final questions:
1. If you've converted to SWG, have you encountered any trouble with corrosion in deck sockets for railings/ladders and/or diving board deck studs?

2. I'm considering either the Hayward Aqua Rite or the Auto Pilot Digital. The Hayward only goes up to 40,000 gal, the AutoPilot offers 48,000 or 60,000 (IIRC). I know that it's better to oversize the SWG unit. Will the Hayward 40,000 be "oversized enough" for our 29,000 gal pool? Or should I really be looking at the Auto Pilot 60K?

3. Finally, I'm seeing an "XL" version of the AquaRite on the Hayward site, but non "XL" versions seem widely available online (around $800). Anyone know what the XL adds in terms of features?

Answers (and any other thoughts) most welcome!

Thanks,

Steve

 

[PoolGuyNJ]

Intellichlor's go to 60K also.

Verify the cups are bonded if they are brass or aluminum. If they are, run a continuity test to the bond wire by the pump and house grounding rod. If that is good, adding a replaceable zinc anode after the salt cell will help eliminate any stray currents that might impact the ladder cups, stainless rails, ladders or dive stands from the cell.

Scott

 

[Steverino]

They're aluminum, but I don't know if they are bonded. Any easy way to tell?

What's your take on a 40K cell vs. 60K?

 

[Steve456]

1) No
2) Buy the largest unit you can afford; this will enable you to run the unit for fewer hours each day thus extending the life of the unit. Ignore the pool size rating; compare the number of pounds of Cl produced by each unit.

Good Luck

 

[PoolGuyNJ]

A continuity test from the bond wire at the pad to the ladder cups will tell you. I use an extension cord to act as a lead. If there is less than 5 ohm netween the bond wire at the pad and the ladder cups, they are tied together. Next, take it to the ground stake and bond wire or ladder cups. Less than 5 and you're good.

Scott