New Pool, waterfilled 1 week ago, just gotten TFP-100 kit

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photon29

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Jun 27, 2009
16
Rectangular pool about 22,000 gal, gunite with pebble sheen
water temp 83 F

Here is my result after a few days of adding Calcium Plus, Chlorine, MA, CYA
5/27/10
FC 4
CC 0
pH 7.5
TA 140
CH 160 ( just added 3 jug of Walmart HTH Calcium Plus yesterday)
CYA 30

Should I add more CYA, MA and wait a full week before adding more Calcium plus or should I add more Calcium now?
When Can I do Borax ?
This will be a salt water pool ( I was told not to add salt for atleast 30days after filling )

Thanks
 
photon29 said:
Rectangular pool about 22,000 gal, gunite with pebble sheen
water temp 83 F

Here is my result after a few days of adding Calcium Plus, Chlorine, MA, CYA
5/27/10
FC 4
CC 0
pH 7.5
TA 140
CH 160 ( just added 3 jug of Walmart HTH Calcium Plus yesterday)
CYA 30

Should I add more CYA, MA and wait a full week before adding more Calcium plus or should I add more Calcium now?
When Can I do Borax ?
This will be a salt water pool ( I was told not to add salt for atleast 30days after filling )

Thanks
Click to expand...
The numbers look swimmable to me! When did you add CYA? It may take a while to completely dissolve and disperse to where you can get a good reading. You don't want to overdue it; trust me, it's a PITA not being able to check FC using the test block for color matching.

If you want to lower TA, add some acid to get it down to 7.2 and aerate it. But really, mostly what you need is a big bottle of POP. Pool Owner Patience. Think about how much swirling it takes to mix a couple drops of reagent into 25ml of water - and then think how much bigger your pool is. It will take a while to circulate and equalize, cause you can't pick it up and swirl it.
 
Hi,
Have you seen this article:
pool-school/pool_plaster_start-up
While the new plaster is curing - you don't want to do anything extreme - leave the CYA, don't adjust Calcium or TA for the first month - test the ph and add acid daily to keep it at 7.4.

The calcium, PH and TA will raise on their own while the plaster cures. So you won't be needing Borax for a while - and you shouldn't do anything else to the CH level.

What would be good for you right now would actually by trichlor tablets. They'll provide you with the chlorine you need, and they are acidic so they'll keep the PH and TA in place. The tablets will build your CYA level, so when 30 days rolls around and you are ready to add the salt - the CYA will be closer to your range.

If you don't have an inline chlorinator, use a floater.

Post back if any of this doesn't make sense or you need clarification :)
 
Richard320 said:
The numbers look swimmable to me! When did you add CYA? It may take a while to completely dissolve and disperse to where you can get a good reading. You don't want to overdue it; trust me, it's a PITA not being able to check FC using the test block for color matching.

If you want to lower TA, add some acid to get it down to 7.2 and aerate it. But really, mostly what you need is a big bottle of POP. Pool Owner Patience. Think about how much swirling it takes to mix a couple drops of reagent into 25ml of water - and then think how much bigger your pool is. It will take a while to circulate and equalize, cause you can't pick it up and swirl it.
Click to expand...

Just to reiterate it's not necessary to lower the TA right now - don't focus on adjusting it at all at this time as it will flucuate while the surface cures. Just focus on the PH and keeping the water chlorinated properly. :wink:
 
The above article does not have anything about pebble-sheen pool, so should I treat it as a plaster pool but the only difference is that I could swim sooner ? What about all the chemicals ? What should I try to bring into range and what should I avoid ? Thanks for all your help.
 

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Pebble should be treated like plaster as far as chemical levels go. The pebbles themselves are fine, but there is plaster between the pebbles.

Your levels look alright for now. Keep an eye on the PH and maintain it between 7.2 and 7.8. Longer term you may need to lower the TA level, but there is no rush on that.
 
Pebble pools are 90-95% pebbles, with the balance being plaster to hold it all together. When you are in contact with the finish, you are basically standing on solid rock, which is tightly fused and very strong. Since a pebble pool gets troweled and water washed on day one, and acid washed (and sometimes polished) on day two, it means that the guys are already walking on the surface on the second day. By the time the water is added and the pool is started up, several days have passed from installation, and swimming in the pool is not a problem. The plaster in between the pebbles will still require the 28 day cure out, but, again, it is a a small amount compared to the stone and you would be coming in very little, if any, contact with it.

Watch your chems and take good care of this finish and it will take good care of you! Have a great long weekend :cheers: :cheers:
 
But really, mostly what you need is a big bottle of POP. Pool Owner Patience. Think about how much swirling it takes to mix a couple drops of reagent into 25ml of water - and then think how much bigger your pool is. It will take a while to circulate and equalize, cause you can't pick it up and swirl it.


I like your sense of humor , Richard.

where can I buy some POP ? :-D

Thanks you guys are great, hats off to ya.
 
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