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Lowertc

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May 24, 2010
72
CT.
ok, A long time pool owner just finding this forum!! Last year decided for some strange reason to try the BLUE system. Worked fine but did not get the results i was hoping for! Any how, going back to CH. (used my auto feeded with jumbo taps in the past) Would like to switch to a cheaper alternative, BLEACH. So here is what i have. Opening today(cover still on) readings are:
TC: None
TA: 50
PH: 6.8
CH: ?
CYA: ?

Have not seen the water yet(I believe there is debris in the pool). water not clear!

Shocking with 3-4 bags of Calcium Hypo to bring the TC up? Then what is the next steps:
TA? then PH? how much of each? Should i also do a Algae control?

Tom
 
will get the CYA number later from the Pool Store... I had a box of 6 1lb bags of Hypo given to me....

Update: OH it's GREEN!! can only see half way down deep end..... Should i just do the 6 bags... Will i need some alge control in there?

F BLUE
 
Do yourself a favor and get a full test kit. If you support the site, you can get a discount on the TF100. Both are well worth the money.

Then bookmark the pool calculator.

After that, it's pretty easy. Test, input data, add, circulate, repeat. Vacuum as needed. Enjoy.

Really, the absolute first step is a test kit. You're working blind otherwise. Cal-hypo may be pushing already-high CH through the roof, or you may need more CH and it's a good thing. You may have CYA so high that shocking becomes next to impossible and you need to drain. You don't know. While you wait for the kit, if you have to order, you can get busy scooping crud out.

My two cents.
 
My suggestion for killing the algae is just using the bleach, bleach does not add anything "extra" to your pool, just stick to the cookie cutter basics, if you add just bleach it will eventually kill the algae and then filter it out. Without knowing your other numbers I really can't suggest using the bag of cal hypo, your pool is the only one that I know that has real issues with too much calcium, as liner pools,fiberglass don't have the issues concrete can with high calcium levels.
So my suggestion is run to Wallys and buy the generic 6% bleach. Get that CYA level tested asap so we can figure out where we need you to be with shock levels. Also you will need to bring your EDITED-PH up slightly it is on the high side of low even for shocking, 7.2-7.5 would be better.
Check out the pool calculator it will help guide you with your additions of bleach and baking soda. TA can come up some.
I would suggest investing in a good testing kit so you can take control of this yourself. The TF-100 was a huge money and time saver for me as I didn't have to keep running to the store.
I'm not sure if you have but read up on pool school as it has loads of info to help guide you start to finish. Good Luck.

Edited sorry- lack of sleep let me fix my mistake- Baking soda brings up TA. By doing so your ph should come up slightly. You can also aerate to increase ph.Sorry didn't mean to confuse :roll:
 

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dumping and adding water is not that easy on a well!!!! I need to add. Looking at the chart for a direct sunlight the CYA is recommended to be 80 or so? i am at 90

What steps to take with out draining!
 
You don't have to dump and refill the whole amount at once; you can do it in stages, say 10%-15% of the pool at a time. You end up using more total water in that case, but the pace is slower, and with a well that is probably what you want.

Where did you see CYA 80 recommended? That would be the kind of level we'd recommend for a SWG, but not when using bleach. In New England, really CYA 40 is enough, and CYA 60 is high but tolerable.
--paulr
 
not sure where i saw that, Will try to run 40-60

As for Bleach Vs pool store CH.. What really is recommended on this site?

I am shocking with bleach for Cost but on a normal maintenance whats recommended.? as stated earlier i for years have been using the dichloro-s in my feeder (perhaps why the CYA is High)
 
This site recommends bleach or liquid chlorine for almost every situation where a SWCG isn't installed.
We only recommend dichlor, trichlor or cal-hypo in a few specific instances and then only short term.
Maintenence wise and cost wise, liquid is the best. A SWCG comes close and there's some argument that it's easier but with a liquid feed system I don't think that's true.
 
Lowertc said:
dumping and adding water is not that easy on a well!!!! I need to add. Looking at the chart for a direct sunlight the CYA is recommended to be 80 or so? i am at 90

What steps to take with out draining!
Click to expand...


I would like to know why dumping it an refilling it on a well is not a good idea?
 
jck said:
I would like to know why dumping it an refilling it on a well is not a good idea?
Click to expand...
Refilling a pool requires a LOT of water. A well really has a maximum supply rate it can sustain without causing issues. You can fill a pool from a well, but you need to be more careful than if you have a city water supply.
--paulr
 
PaulR said:
jck said:
I would like to know why dumping it an refilling it on a well is not a good idea?
Click to expand...
Refilling a pool requires a LOT of water. A well really has a maximum supply rate it can sustain without causing issues. You can fill a pool from a well, but you need to be more careful than if you have a city water supply.
--paulr
Click to expand...

I ran a 2in pipe from by well to my pool. Not to thread jack here but I would like to know whats wrong with using the well to refill pool. i took out like 3/4 last week an filled it backup using the well. Dont want to mess up the well.
 

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