help with #

Jump to latest Follow Reply
K

koliver13

0
May 17, 2010
115
FC20.5
PH7.8
CC1
TC21.5
TA250
CH425
CYA 80?

Been trying for weeks to shock. Thought I was done yesterday CC.5 now back up. Pool is blue but still cloudy. Testing with the TF-100. Had to keep shock way up thought CYA was 60 from pool place but appears to be higher now when I test if I've done it correctly? Used calcium chloride from pool store to raise CH now out the roof. Just using Chlorine to shock and doing the BBB now. Back washing, vacuuming and using new clean machine. Is it cloudy because of high CH? What should I do at this point I have shocked and shocked used 40+ bleach. Please help I've read pool school but still feel like I'm doing something wrong. Should I drain some water at this point to get rid of CYA and CH? How much would I need to drain? Below the skimmer? Thanks for any help I'm so tired of trying running out of test material for some of the tests because of high FC to shock.
 
You could drain 50 percent water. With a vinyl liner try to leave at least a foot or so in the shallow end. Draining too much will cause issues with wrinkles. retest afterwards and post some numbers. Your TA is also high , perhaps this will improve but that would depend on fill water chemistry.
With your liner you normally dont have to worry about hardness, Dont let the pool store treat your pool as if it were plaster.
 
If you are using a SWG, there isn't any reason to drain/replace water. If you are not using a SWG, that might be a good idea.

There are two different problems here, whatever is causing the overnight FC loss, and all three of PH/TA/CH being relatively high. High PH/TA/CH means you are very close to calcium scaling, or may be getting calcium scaling right now, and the water will tend to get cloudy from calcium clouding.

You should confirm that your TA level really is that high by doing the TA test again, this time wiping the dropper tip with a damp cloth or tissue before you start and after every five drops. Sometimes static electricity on the dropper tip will cause the drops to come out too small and give an incorrect high reading.

You should also check all of the hidden or difficult to reach spots and make sure there isn't any algae growing there. Look under ladder steps, in tight corners, behind lighting niches, etc. And if you haven't backwashed/cleaned your filter recently you should do so now.
 
I have well water and no SWG. I'll do the TA test tomorrow again first time I couldn't get a reading wouldn't turn colors. This time used instr. to test w/ 10ml sample and I wiped after each drop..... Don't have ladder steps in yet or anything else but the light and main drain cover. What is calcium scaling look like. I have some brown areas on the bottom of the shallow end I noticed today. How do you drain the pool past the skimmers? I've never done that. Changed thesand just last year. Thanks for the help
 
If you don't have a main drain or can't shut off the skimmers, then you'd need a sump pump or submersible or something.

But, before you do that... do you know whether your well water has iron in it? That's common with well water and leads to other hassles.
--paulr
 
last night 3
FC20.5
PH7.8
CC1
TC21.5
TA250
CH425
CYA 80?

Here are my numbers this morning only had time to take a few before off to work

TA 210
CH 375
FC 21
CC 1
Now what should I do? worried about draining the well so I can't lower it too much. What if I lowered it to the skimmers are sucking air and refill. Then ck the numbers again. What do you all think. Still cloudy today but I can see the bottom and beautiful blue color. HELP PLEASE we would love to swim sometime this season.
Thanks!!! P.S. How do you test your well water someone mentioned iron?
 
You didn't lose any chlorine overnight, and your CC level has been fairly stable near 1.0, so I would stop shocking and let the FC level come down so you can deal with the high PH/TA/CH levels (which are probably a higher priority right at the moment).

The next step is to lower your PH and TA. When the FC level gets down to 15, start on lowering your TA. Don't lower your PH below 7.2 while FC is above 10.

Meanwhile, replace as much water as you are comfortable replacing.
 
thanks I haven't added any chlorine since Sunday evening. I'll wait for the FC to come down to 15 then ck the calculator for the correct measurements of muriatic acid to lower PH and move my returns up. I'll also drain to the skimmer, refill before adding acid. Hope I can get this straight and maybe be able to swim this weekend? What numbers (PH/TA/CH) should I be reaching for with the CYA of 80?
 
Ultimately, you want to get TA down to around 80 and PH around 7.5. That may take a while though. If you can get TA down to 150 you should be able to clear up any calcium clouding, which might well be what is making your water cloudy (though it is difficult to be sure).
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Thanks again. Which is best muriatic acid or dry acid or does it matter?
1. Drain water/fill
2. Add M. Acid/Dry acid to reduce PH to 7.0-7.2
3. Aerate until PH rises 7.5
4. Repeat as needed step 1 & 2 until TA is down to 80
does this look right?
 
MA and dry acid both work, I prefer MA because the pool already has hydrogen and chlorine in it but over time using dry acid will build up sulfates.

Your procedure looks good, assuming you have a "test pH/TA" step before you start adding acid.
--paulr
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.
Top Bottom
Back
Jump to latest Follow Reply