Is Leslie's shock okay if I'm going to use Cal-Hypo?

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Yes, but you will want to measure CH first and use the Pool Calculator to find out exactly how much CH this adds.

Then, you will need to dissolve this in water before adding to avoid damaging your liner. You do not want this sitting on the bottom.

I am not at all fond of this based on price, as it is very expensive compared to bleach per FC added when used in the packets. In the 100 lb bucket is becomes favorable. But I'd probably not invest in that if I had vinyl.
 
I'm looking at the 25lb.

I had the 1 hour drop of FC from 19 and only going to 16. So I think I can get it, but I, and all the local stores, ran out of bleach. I want to hit it hard. I'm going to aim for 30ppm shock.

What would you folks do if you couldn't find enough 6% bleach to keep it to 19 (what I was trying) for a whole day?
 
When I started helping my friend with her plaster pool (plaster 22 years old) she had no CYA and her pool guy had been using CalHypo, only, forever and she had constant green algae. Her CH was 700 but her TA was pretty low. Basically all I've done was add CYA and had her start using bleach. And run the pump 24/7. For several weeks her pool has been pristine, no algae, AND her CSI was -0.02 last time I checked it and pH has remained steady for a month at 7.5.

So even with a high CH 700 I personally have been witnessing how a pool can be managed with too much CH. We'll get the CH down over time. I'm not advocating, out of control, high CH, by any means.

If CalHypo is the only thing you can get in quantity then seems like a reasonable alternative. Don't let it sit on the bottom in any pool.

There is a really strong correlation between TA and CH so put figures in to The Pool Calculator to see what would be the maximum amount of CH you would want to put in you pool with your current TA level. That will help you to keep from over doing it with the CalHypo in terms of CH.

I've used CalHypo, on and off over the years. My friend and I would split a 100 bucket. VERY IMPORTANT - Store the CalHypo bucket where it will be least likely to have moisture or rain on it. If moisture gets into the bucket it can become as hard as concrete and the fumes, when you open the top can knock you over. Carry the bucket outside, out of enclosed area, when you open it and keep your face away from the top. When you are scooping it out take care to not let any moisture get in the bucket.

gg=alice
 
Thanks gg.
Yea... I want to do the bleach maintenance, but at this point, I'm going to go CalHypo on this aglae's backside!

Leslie's had 4 jug cases of 12% Liquid Chlorine for $21. Figuring 8 jugs of 6% would be cheaper, but harder for me to find. I bought the 25lb of the CalHypo, and a case of the liquid chlorine. I'll get some more bleach, and have an algae killing party.
 
geekgranny said:
There is a really strong correlation between TA and CH so put figures in to The Pool Calculator to see what would be the maximum amount of CH you would want to put in you pool with your current TA level. That will help you to keep from over doing it with the CalHypo in terms of CH.

gg=alice
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Are you saying that adding Cal-Hypo increases TA? Hmm, the Pool Calculator totally ignores this correlation.
 
BTW, I'm still torn on this too.

On the one hand, the pool looks clear, just a bit cloudy.

On the other, something's eating my chlorine.

I'm going to do a full work up and vacuum before I do this. And extra testing during the process.
 
mkenyon2 said:
On the other, something's eating my chlorine.

I'm going to do a full work up and vacuum before I do this. And extra testing during the process.
Click to expand...

Something eating chlorine means raise the FC in my book. Clean the filter, skimmers and whatever, nuke it with chlorine from any source that makes sense, and filter as much as possible to remove whatever you kill.
 

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anonapersona said:
geekgranny said:
There is a really strong correlation between TA and CH so put figures in to The Pool Calculator to see what would be the maximum amount of CH you would want to put in you pool with your current TA level. That will help you to keep from over doing it with the CalHypo in terms of CH.

gg=alice
Click to expand...

Are you saying that adding Cal-Hypo increases TA? Hmm, the Pool Calculator totally ignores this correlation.
Click to expand...
The correlation is between pH, TA, CH, CYA and temperature that all together affect the saturation index. If one uses a lower TA to reduce the rate of pH rise over time, then one may need to have a higher CH level and/or pH target to get closer to a zero saturation index in a plaster pool.

Cal-Hypo does not increase TA directly, though when initially added to a pool both pH and TA rise, but as the chlorine gets used up both drop. The change in TA is not noticeable in the TA test partly because the change is small and also because the TA test neutralizes the chlorine first as part of the test.
 
anonapersona said:
geekgranny said:
There is a really strong correlation between TA and CH so put figures in to The Pool Calculator to see what would be the maximum amount of CH you would want to put in you pool with your current TA level. That will help you to keep from over doing it with the CalHypo in terms of CH.

gg=alice
Click to expand...

Are you saying that adding Cal-Hypo increases TA? Hmm, the Pool Calculator totally ignores this correlation.
Click to expand...

No. Sorry. In certain situations high CH can be dealt with keeping TA lower. And of course other factors. In my friends pool she had pretty low TA when I started working on her pool. So when I plugged the numbers in to The Pool Calculator, before adding anything, the CSI was very acceptable. If I had not paid attention to that when starting to adjust her pool and if I had tried to bring the TA up I could not have gotten such a good CSI. As we let rain out and do some backwashing (AND no more use of Cal Hypo) the CH will start to lower and we will begin to bring the TA up gradually as the CH hardness goes down. Her fill water is not high in calcium. It occurred from using Cal Hypo over a period of time.

In her pool the plaster is very old and fragile. I want to baby it and I can't be there every day to test and make various adjustments. So for a weeks I have been paying special attention to CSI and keeping it as close to -0- as possible. I didn't have to do anything other than leave STRICT INSTRUCTIONS that NO ONE, including her pool guy, put Cal Hypo in the pool. (Instructions for her DE leaking filter another issue)

We are getting a lot of rain so that will help to lower the CH. Her pH has remained steady, at 7.5 for a month. I haven't tested the CYA in a week, but I have her test the water and then give her an estimate of how much bleach to add every couple of days.

I'm going over tomorrow to do a full round of tests.

BTW..... she is disabled and can't bend down to get water out of the pool for testing. I took over my pvc, 1/2, tube, and it is perfect for her to get test water out at 18" depth.

gg=alice
 
The low CSI is only a problem if you have any exposed grout in tile, plaster, etc. but normally a vinyl AGP pool doesn't have anything like that. I assume your pH isn't too low -- the main concern for metal corrosion is a low pH, especially below 7.0 though you should normally have your pH at 7.5 (or slightly higher).

TFTestkits sells two salt tests and a borate test here.
 
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