Im a little lost.

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N

norcuron

0
May 20, 2010
10
Background: I bought a house with a pool "swamp" (tadpoles and frogs) It has been down for a few years without a cover. Ive gotten out most (I think) of the stuff off the bottom. I used to work for a pool builder during college~ 10 yrs ago and remember the plumbing & structural aspect of pools. So I called my old boss and got a new pump some electrical work and some new sand for the filter. He told me to shock the heck out of it. I did and it turned a milky blue then I used the floc he recomended then nothing.... !
My #s after 3 days are :
TC 10
FC 10
TA 0
PH 6.2
TH 100
I can see about 2-3 ft deep at this point. Who knows what is at the bottom.
Should I get the PH right or let it get back up on its own? I have heard "backwash,backwash,backwash" BUT Ive heard "let it go untill your pressure gets around 22psi then backwash." "dirty filter cleans better than a clean one"
Also: "Chlorine workes better in a low PH". so should I or not raise my PH by adding bicarb? Ie: Alk. (I thought that would make your water cloudy.) I am sooo lost! :cry:
Please help! Do i just let the pump run and clean the particals
Thanks guys!
 
With his TA being 0 :shock: , I am also wondering if maybe he needs at least some TA to speak of starting off too. Without it, his pH would be all over the map every time he adds something. It's been a while since I have seen a TA of 0.
 
Im sorry, I dont know my CYA and the next pool store is about 30 miles from my house :cry:
But my Walmart water test kit and my test strips say Im around 6.8 PH. and realy high chlorine.
I used the calculator and added the muriatic acid and chlorine that I needed when my PH was 8 and FC was 0. the water was green soup. The next day it was blue but milky. My wife was happy but I knew this was only the start of a tough run.
I just tested again and my #s are.
TC 10
FC 8
TA 0
PH 6.8
TH 100
Dare I put some Bicarb in? or let the PH come up by itself?
 
If your TA is truly zero, you can add some baking soda. I am a little worried about the 6.8 PH reading, as a high FC level will usually yield a false high reading...not a false low. I would try to raise your PH up a bit (7.2) w/ borax or PH+ if you have it. Since your TA is low, If you use PH+, you'll need less baking soda. Then STOP.

Please visit tftestkits.net and order your self a TF100 test kit. Preferably TF100XL. It will be the best money ever spent as you will get repeatable/reliable test results that will help you get through the shocking process. Without knowing your CYA level, we have no idea how high your FC should be to reach shock. BTW the TF100 (alternate kit is the Taylor k2006) can read FC up to 50.

Hope this help...you need a few more days, but better than throwing shoch at it and wasting mony you do not need to.

Welcome to TFP :wave:
 
Before doing anything, it's best to probably go ahead and get you some baking soda and raise that TA to a minimum of 40. Having no TA in there at all can be quite problematic.
 
If your TA is indeed zero, you should (as 257 said) raise it to about 40 first.

It would be great if you could have your test numbers confirmed.

Having a good test kit is the key to clearing and maintaining your pool.
You can Compare Test Kits here.
I also recommend the TF100XL to clear your swamp.

Welcome to the forum :wave:
 
Thanks for the warm welcome guys and gals. :-D
I will order the test kit mentioned in the AM. That should be here by Wednesday.
I just came back from testing the water and the strip gave me the same #s as this am.
TC 10
FC 10
TA 0
PH 6.8
TH 200
I have been able to scoop out more stuff, I can now see dark spots at the bottom of the shallow end. Its mostly goop and dead tadpoles.
Hey its a start!
Any links or hook-ups to a good pool cover and water bags?
 
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