Converting from Baqua to SWG

[stephentx7]

No, if there isn't any visible debris there isn't any point in vacuuming to waste.

awesome.

It is probably a good idea to leave the SWG off for now. You don't want any baqgoo accumulating inside the SWG.

out of curiosity....what does BaquaGoo look like? Are there any pictures of it? I have yet to see anything resembling "goo" either in the pool or when I backwash. I have just attested to it being that I started with such a low Baqua reading.

 

[stephentx7]

Ok just got home...stopped over at Wally World and picked up some more jugs so I can attack this hourly for the next few hours. I have to say...the water looks amazing. Probably the clearest I have ever seen our water.

Test results right now before I added more bleach:

FC = 3.5
CC = 0.5 (YAY this is good right?!)
pH = 7.2
TA = 90

Will check it again in an hour.

 

[JasonLion]

Great! You are doing wonderfully.

 

[stephentx7]

Here are my overnight FC loss numbers:

FC: 15.5 (YAY!)
CC: 1.0 (argh! lol)
pH: 8.0
TA: 95 (i say this because at 9 drops it was alllllllmost there lol)

oh and I added salt yesterday in the afternoon...I need to go get a salt test kit. The one I found yesterday was packaged with strip tests that I did not need.

Sounds like I am almost there though!

 

[stephentx7]

I think we are nearly done. FC is only losing 2 or so over nights now and our CC has been 0 to 0.5 for 48 hours. SWG is installed. Sand is going to be changed. I think we are at the stage where we go ahead and add our CYA. What is the most economical way to add the CYA? There seems to be many options. What do you guys recommend? I know there aren't many tests for CYA in the K2006 kit...should I assume that my current CYA is 0? I've never put any CYA in. What level is best? Intex manual suggests 30 - 50 ppm but it looks as if the Pool School suggests 70-80?

Once I add the CYA and re-raise FC to 15ppm won't the CYA keep my FC level higher for a little longer? How long on average will my FC take to drop to a "safe-to-swim" level? (looks like either 4-5 depending on CYA level)

(sorry for the million questions)

 

[JasonLion]

Wait another little bit, for the overnight FC loss to go to 1.0 or lower, before changing the sand and adding CYA. It shouldn't be too long.

The most economical way to add CYA to to look for granular/powdered version and avoid the liquid version. WalMart is said to have really good prices on CYA/stabilizer right now, though that may vary by region.

Yes, assume CYA is starting at zero.

For use with a SWG, you want CYA around 70 to 80. It is best to work up to that level in two steps. It is easy to add CYA, but tricky to remove it if you add too much. If the first round adds more or less than you expect you can adjust what you do on the second round so you still end up at the right level.

Most people here feel that it is safe to swim when FC is anywhere between the minimum and shock level for your current CYA level.

 

[stephentx7]

For use with a SWG, you want CYA around 70 to 80. It is best to work up to that level in two steps. It is easy to add CYA, but tricky to remove it if you add too much. If the first round adds more or less than you expect you can adjust what you do on the second round so you still end up at the right level.

Hopefully tonight we only lose 1.0 of FC. It's looking *fingers crossed* like it will. If so...then I will shoot for a CYA of 60 that way if it goes a little over then I can readjust easier than having to drain water. So I test 24 hours after adding CYA and then again in a week and adjust it then?

Most people here feel that it is safe to swim when FC is anywhere between the minimum and shock level for your current CYA level.

So if my shock level for CYA is 24 then it is safe to swim if my FC is still around 15 and on its way down? It's a little confusing because in the Chlorine /CYA section of the Pool School it says my FC Shock would be 24. But the Pool Calculator says my Suggested FC Levels are:

SWG: 1
Normal: 1 to 3
Shock: 10
Mustard Algae Shock: 12

What's the difference between the two resources?

 

[JasonLion]

Wait a week after adding CYA before testing the CYA level again. Other than that you have it.

The Pool Calculator displays values based on the CYA level currently entered in the Now column. To get the numbers you showed you must of had CYA set to zero. If you enter 60, the shock level would be 18.

The Pool Calculator and the Chlorine/CYA chart agree on most of their numbers, but Pool Calculator tends to give lower shock levels at high CYA level. Either shock level will work, but the ones on the Chlorine/CYA chart will work more quickly.

 

[stephentx7]

I feel like a proud parent this morning.

FC = 15.5 (was 16.5 before i went to bed)
CC = 0.5 (YAY)
pH = 8.0
TA = 100

Changing sand and adding CYA tomorrow evening as our kids have a school function tonight.
Just in time for our pool to have its Opening Day on the kids' actual last day of school this Thursday. What perfect timing!

 

[JasonLion]

Congatulations!

 

[stephentx7]

We are finished! We have no FC loss overnight anymore and our CC is a steady 0.0

Thank you guys so much! This forum is truthfully a gift to pool owners everywhere. I have spread the word of this website to other frustrated or newbie pool owners.

I plan on giving back to the forum and becoming a Supporter...as this forum provides me a lot of information and it's only fair to return the favor.

I have more questions!

I turned off the SWG because it was making our FC slowly rise to shock level. (we've been gaining 1 FC the past two days now since adding CYA)

We want to swim tonight. Is it safe with these numbers?

FC = 10
CC = 0
pH = 7.3
TA = 100
CYA = 55 (need to test again in 5 days)

Here are the pics of our non-Baqua pool!

 

[JasonLion]

Sure, swimming is fine!