Red "FLOW" light on Intellichlor IC40

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C

cablinaggie

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May 14, 2010
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Hi, need a little help here.

We built a our pool in September of 08, as a salt pool. We have had it maintained by a pool guy until last week, and he was coming out every other week. We had an issue where white flakes came out of the returns (May 2009), and he told us that he needed to come out every week (at an additional $50/visit) to maintain the pool or switch to a chlorine feeder. Not knowing about this website at the time, we agreed and since then he's been using liquid chlorine (this is a supposition, because I never watched him clean the pool, I was always at work). Anyway, we fired him last week and I decided to maintain the pool myself and switch it back to salt.

Reconnected the SWCG, got a steady red flow light. I called Pentair and they told me to disconnect it, make sure it was free of scale, try a degreaser like Simple Green in it and acid clean it if I needed to. When I opened it up, it looked fairly clean save for a few small deposits that were easily washed out with a high pressure stream from a hose. The blades look clean, I can see right through the unit without any obstructions. Reconnected, plugged it back in...nada. Same light. In my earlier call to Pentair they said that if the acid clean doesn't work it may be a malfunctioning flow switch, but I wanted to see what the board thinks. Thankfully the unit is still under warranty, and I'm calling them in the morning but I'm just curious to see if it could be anything else.

I've tried messing with the RPM's in the controller to no avail (bumped it up to 2500 RPM from 750 RPM). The last picture I posted in my intro thread here: greetings-from-cablinaggie-in-houston-tx-t21171.html has a picture of my setup. The pool guy installed the chlorine feeder before the SWCG, could that have something to do with it?

Also, the "CELL" light isn't turning on, but I don't know if it's because there's no flow.

Thanks in advance for your help.
 
I'm not the SWCG expert but there have been several posts about low flow lights being on. You can test the switch if you're electrically handy. Post back if you are and we can walk you through it. There has also been some discussion about a software upgrade for that problem but I'm not sure it's for your unit.
 
The software/firmware issue the Bama referenced is usually related to an error message seen on an the Easytouch automation unit. In this case, I believe the flow sensor switch could be faulty; it's located on the generator itself. Seems like there are no obstruction, so the flow switch is the problem, I would think. The "cell" light will only come on when it's making chlorine. If the red flow light is lit, the SWCG "thinks" there is little or no water flowing through it and will no operate, no matter what. If it's under warranty, give Pentair a call. As I said, there is a way to replace the sensor DYI, but if it's under warranty, let them do it.
 
When you call Pentair, they will probably want to send factory service to you and maybe to replace the flow switch. Thats fine, let them do it their way, just keep an eye on your warranty date, and make sure they eventually make it right. These units have had problems ranging from the power center to the cell itself. Hopefully, the guy they send out will replace the cell. This will usually fix the problem. Make sure your salt level is where it should be, by the time the guy gets there. That will slow down your ticket. I won't touch a system unless #1, the salt level is correct. No way to test the unit w/o the correct salt. Make sure your salt is OVER 3250. That should give you a green salt light, (if its working).

You can replace the sensor/switch yourself (after warranty expires). Pentair won't send warranty parts without factory service installation. They want to install the part, so correct installation can be verified. Shouldn't be a problem anyway. There should be no charge for this.

Good Luck.
 
I called Pentair this morning and managed to get a hold of the same guy who helped me with a problem last year on my pump. They are replacing the flow switch, through a local authorized pool company, on Monday (24-May). I don't think they'll replace the cell....yet. I have until September 2011 until the warranty expires.

Pool Clown, I know the salt level isn't correct because it's been primarily maintained by a pool guy who switched it to a chlorine system last year (see my OP). I've read on here that I should make sure my levels are balanced before I dump salt in. I'm still waiting on my TF100 so my readings can be as accurate as possible, so I'm in a holding pattern until it comes in. Or, should I go ahead and use whatever test kit I have and use those numbers, use AquaChek strips and dump in some salt before Monday rolls around? It might be a couple more days until the TF100 arrives.
 
I realize that this thread is over a month old and the OP probably already had the switch replaced. But I wanted to chime in here and let others that may run into this problem, what I did to fix this exact same situation.

I removed my IC-40 and looked inside to see if anything was obstructing the flow (it was brand new so I figured I wouldn't find anything). I realized that the flow switch was turned sideways. I simply twisted it so that the metal flap will be pushed in the correct direction when water is flowing through it. I connected it back up and it now works great!
 
I forgot about this thread, but I found out what the problem was and Pentair fixed it under warranty.

The pool guy I had used installed a chlorinator (I think that's what those puck tubes are called) before the IC40, in the line leading from the heater. The concentrated chlorine ate the metallic flow switch. I feel stupid because I didn't know the flow switch was metal, there was only a plastic thingamajig hanging down when I opened it up, and I thought that was the flow switch.
 
JD,

I was under the impression that the output from the booster pump went directly to the cleaner and not through the return plumbing?? How about a couple of pictures of your equipment pad....

You can then tell us where you plan to install the IC40..

Thanks,

Jim R.
 

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