Triple B AND N2??

[snipe]

Hi everyone,

I'm a converted BBB pool owner and have learned so much from all of you. Thanks to all!! I do have a question though: I ran a Nature2 cartridge in my pool for years and bought one this spring (among $250 worth of other junk)to put in my pool but this was before I discovered the triple B method. From what I've read I really don't trust JUST the N2 cartridge and a .5 FC level to sanitize my pool anymore so I'm running my FC between 3 and 6 (for a corresponding CYA of 40) along with the N2. Am I being neurotic and just wasting bleach by keeping this FC level in conjunction with an N2? Could I reasonably keep a lower FC level because I'm using the N2 also?

I don't plan on purchasing a $100 N2 cartridge next year, just going with the triple B. It just makes so much more sense to me.

One other thing. When balancing out your pool after a winter layup, what is the first thing to get in line; pH, CL or CYA?

Thanks everyone.


Mark

 

[The Mermaid Queen]

The low FC advocated in conjunction with N2 will keep algae at bay, but won't kill other nasties that you don't want in your pool.
I personally would remove your cartridge and stick with just the bleach. N2 also adds metals to your water that, when they become high enough, will cause other problems in your water.

Welcome to TFP!

 

[JasonLion]

I agree with The Mermaid Queen. You don't want metals in your water.

 

[Guest]

At best a N2 will allow you to run a 2 ppm FC level, only slightly lower than if you didn't have one. (assuming a cya level of 30-50 ppm)

 

[snipe]

Thanks everyone for your replies. Concerning metals in my pool due to N2 use, everytime that I had my pool tested at the
pool store (I know, I know , but this was before I wised up and got myself a K-2006 kit) there were no detectable levels of copper. From what you say Waterbear, it seems as though I could probably run a FC of 2 but to be on the safe side I think maybe I'll try and keep it around 3 ppm until next year when I run without a N2. Sound thinking or not?

Concerning my second question. I have a friend who's water is way out of wack. pH is at 6.8, maybe lower, CL is non-existent and CYA is zip, alkalinity is also very low. What is the first parameter to get in line. I'm assuming pH is your first priority due to the lowered ineffectiveness of CL at lower pH levels. Once pH is in line then add some CL along with some CYA then work on your alkalinity. Is this correct? He's a first time pool owner and has only had it since 7/4. It's a 5000 gal. Sofpool(I think).

Thanks everyone.

Mark

 

[tagprod]

Re - the second question:

If it were my pool, I'd calculate what I needed to get the PH up to 7.4 and then start on the chlorine. I wouldn't obsess about the PH right now, but it does need to come up. It's not really your first priority, but after you shock your PH readings are whacked out. Since he doesn't have any chlorine, I would add enough to get it to shock level and hold it a couple of days. After the first day of shock, I'd add some CYA and baking soda for the TA. How does the pool look?

 

[JasonLion]

It depends on just how low the TA is. With TA near zero it is almost impossible to get the PH right so you have to increase TA a bit first. Also keep in mind that the common PH test shows anything below 6.8 as 6.8, so the PH could be much lower. You can do PH and chlorine adjustments at the same time as long as there is some TA. Also, do the TA adjustment in steps, not more than 2 lbs of baking soda per 10,000 gallons at a time and then give it several hours to mix in and retest to see where the TA ended up.

 

[snipe]

Thanks guys. To answer your question Tagprod, the pool is reportedly cloudy at the moment. No surprise there I guess. My suggestion to him was to add some washing soda in the correct quantity to get both pH and TA up and then start adding some CL. Also told him to use the CYA in the nylon trick to get that level up also. Good advice or not?

Thanks,

Mark