New Pool startup

harry5170

0
LifeTime Supporter
May 15, 2010
17
Kelseyville, Ca
This is my first post. I haven't even been able to put in my pool info yet. My pool will be built(doughboy above ground-15675 gals) in less than a week. Of course I bought Pristine Blue on the store's advice :hammer: . Going to pool school convinced me I don't even want to start PB. I have sent for the TF-100 kit but will not recieve it til several days after the pool is filled. I will be able to circulate thru a filter.
I will be filling it with our city water. My question is: How long can I let it sit before problems arise? I can purchase the cheap test kit from Walmart/Kmart.
I have expirence making De-Min water for boilers, but have never had a pool or hot tub.
Great forums and I intend to take advantage of all the knowledge that I can. Thanks in advance!!
 
Welcome to TFP!

How things go in the first couple of days depends a bit on your fill water. In most areas you can just add 2 ppm of chlorine every evening for several days to a week without problems. If your fill water is high in metals or has extremely high TA levels there can be additional complications, but that will work for most people.
 
harry5170 said:
Of course I bought Pristine Blue on the store's advice :hammer: . Going to pool school convinced me I don't even want to start PB. I have sent for the TF-100 kit but will not recieve it til several days after the pool is filled. I will be able to circulate thru a filter.
I will be filling it with our city water. My question is: How long can I let it sit before problems arise? I can purchase the cheap test kit from Walmart/Kmart.

Can you return the PB, perhaps for a store credit towards other chems? :wink:
The TF100 ships super quick - I wouldn't be surprised if it comes before your pool.... :mrgreen:

If you like, take a sample of your tap water over to the pool store and have them test it. If your PH is high you know you'll need some muratic acid; if your PH is low you know you'll need to buy Borax, if the TA is low you know you'll need Baking Soda, etc. plus they can test for metals so you are prepared.

tap water has no CYA - so you you'll need to have enough on hand to raise your level to 30ppm to get started.

Keep us posted, let us know how the install goes and take pics! we love pics... :wink:
 
A new problem that came up today was convincing my wife we should not use the PB we bought. She believes that her expirence with burning eyes as a child in their small round pool was caused by chorine. She also questions believing stuff on the internet versus the little old lady at the pool store who seemed so nice and concerned about her questions.
I don't doubt that her eyes burned in her little pool but it sounds like the pool was not in good balance and the solution was more and more chorine. \
My major concern is for the health of people swimming in my pool. If my grandsons were to get water born problems from the pool, I could not forgive my self. I am convinced that PB is not an adequate sanitizer.
i have made up my mind that I won't even start the PB but would like to have her buy in. How do I convince her TFP is legit and PB is an unneeded expensive add on to the chorine that is doing the job?
 
I'm going to link to sources including NSF, EPA and scientific papers, but these are links on the Internet so I don't know if this will be sufficient for you.

There are only two NSF Certified Standard 50 Copper/Silver Ion Generator manufacturers as listed here and you will notice that ALL of these products require chlorine, a minimum of 0.4 ppm. This is because any swimming pool chemical or system designated as a "disinfectant" or "sanitizer" must pass EPA DIS/TSS-12 and metal ions alone are unable to pass this test because they kill bacteria and other pathogens too slowly.

Most bacteria are killed with a 2-log reduction (i.e. 99% killed) by chlorine in pools with typical Free Chlorine (FC) and Cyanuric Acid (CYA) levels in under 1 minute, but it takes copper ions 40 minutes for the same level of kill. Viruses are killed much more slowly by metal ions. This scientific paper shows that it takes copper concentrations of 10-1000 mg/L for 90% inactivation of viruses in 30 minutes, but these concentrations are far higher than found in pools as anything approaching 1 mg/L risks serious metal staining so most pools using metal ions have concentrations below 0.7 ppm and some are below 0.3 ppm. This scientific paper shows that copper ions do a 90% inactivation of Herpes Simplex Virus in 30 minutes at 100-200 ppm, but that is far, far higher in concentration than found in pools (copper is usually < 0.3 ppm in pools). There are many different scientific studies showing virus inactivation by chlorine at normal levels found in drinking water or in pools (for example, here, here, here, here, here among many others). This scientific paper shows that adding copper and silver ions to low chlorine levels isn't any better than chlorine alone, at least for the selected human viruses that were studied.

The PristineBlue website here says it is EPA registered in every state and is certified to NSF Standard 60 for drinking water, but as shown here neither Earth Sciences Laboratories (makers of Pristine Blue) or the Pristine Blue product are listed, though their primary chemical of copper sulfate is listed in many other products. Note that copper is an algaecide -- it is not a disinfectant/sanitizer at the level found in pools. The EPA registration can be found by searching the PAN Database where you will find that a search of Pristine Blue returns nothing while Earth Sciences Laboratories returns products called Earthtec with EPA Registration Number 64962-1 that contain Copper Sulfate (pentahydrate). You can search the EPA pesticide registration database here with the 64962 company number. This EPA registration number is for copper sulfate as an algaecide, NOT as a disinfectant/sanitizer since it does not pass EPA DIS/TSS-12.

The bottom line is that copper ions as found in Pristine Blue are great for killing algae (with the risk of staining pools, turning blond hair greenish, etc.), but not nearly as fast as chlorine for killing bacteria and viruses. Chlorine can also kill algae so by using chlorine alone you can maintain a trouble free pool.

I agree with guamguy's suggestion. It's very easy to move away from a chlorine pool by simply letting the chlorine drop on its own or you can add a chlorine neutralizer, so why don't you start out with a chlorine pool that you properly manage and then see how your wife reacts to the water. My wife is very sensitive in general, but doesn't have any problem in our pool (shown here).
 
Thanks for the help and interest. Two days til the pool comes. OF course I have the high anxiety of dealing with late season rain which rarely happens in Northern Ca.
Heres a sneak peek at the location.
 

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The pool is full and has had 1/2 gallons 6% bleach added.
124892956.jpg

The water is clear and sparkling and my Hayward Navigator is cleaning the bottom today. Here are my first numbers using
both the quick test kit and the TF-100 kit.

TC .5-1
FC .5
CC .5
TA 120
CYA 0
CH N/A?
To bring readings to suggested levels, the Pool Calculator says 113oz of 6% bleach and 87 oz. of Cyanuric Acid. Once the Navigator has the pool clean, I will remove it and add the chems. Then I intend to just add bleach to maintain 3-4 ppm and test after the waitng period. Any suggestions/corrections? Thanks! The deck construction starts next week!
!
 

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No need to add any calcium. Vinyl pools are fine with low CH levels, but do test CH at least occasionally just to make sure it isn't getting too high.

Add 2 ppm of chlorine this evening, and each evening through the day you add CYA. The day after you add CYA, start maintaining an FC level between 3 and 7.

Otherwise everything looks good.
 
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