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jstephens

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May 9, 2010
17
Thank God I found this forum.

I have the suggested test kit. Below are my numbers. I have been adding liquid Chlorine since last saturday. It is looking much better just want some tips on my numbers.

ph 7.2
FC 10
CC 1
TA 80
CYA 0

What should I try to keep my FC level up to? I downloaded the iphone pool calculator and I think it says 24 as the target? Is this correct?

Thanks in advance.
 
Welcome to TFP! Glad you have the test kit.

How many gallons is your pool? We need to know this to calculate dosages for your chemicals.

If your CYA is truly 0, then you need to add some, otherwise all of your FC will be lost to the sun. Assuming that you aren't running a SWCG, go ahead and add enough CYA to get you to 30 ppm. Get the powdered kind, put it in a sock, and hang it in front of a return. It's slow to dissolve so you will want to wait at least a week before testing your CYA again.

You have a CC of 1 so you need to shock your pool. With your FC of 10, you are essentially shocking but because that FC won't last long in the water without CYA, you need to watch it until you get some CYA in there. I would go ahead and keep a minimum of 4 ppm of FC in there until you start to add your CYA. Once you have begun the process of adding enough CYA to give you 30 ppm, treat your pool as though it has the full amount of CYA in it and shock it at an FC of 12 until your FC level holds overnight.

Also, go ahead and create a signature line in your profile that includes your pool specs in it. Include type of pool, gallons, pump HP, and filter type. If you run a SWCG, note that also. Please limit the signature to 5 lines total.
 
Yeppers, just keep it at 12 until your FC holds to within 1 ppm overnight. So, if you test it before you go to sleep and it is 12, then you test it again in the morning before the sun hits the water, and the FC is 11 or higher, you're finished. Be sure to run your pump 24 hours a day until you are finished shocking.
 
If your FC holds, but the water isn't clear or is hazy, it won't hurt anything to keep it at 12 until the water clears. Dead algae can make the water hazy until the filter takes care of it. So yes, that is fine. I do want to reiterate though that your pump should run 24/7 until the process is complete. :goodjob:
 
Update

PH= 7.2
FC= 10.5
CC= 1
TA=100
CYA=0

I added 4 lbs of stabilizer 2 days ago.

According to the pool calculator if I am doing this right I need to:
add
1 gal bleach
4 lbs baking soda
aerate
10 lbs of stabilizer

Before I add this much stabilizer just want to make sure.

I want to make sure I dont add too much stabilizer. I also have a inline chlorinator with trichlor 3# pucks running along with the liquid bleach.
 

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Use the sock method, adding 2 lbs of CYA at a time. Use only 8 pounds for now. In about a week after all of the CYA has dissolved from the sock, test again.

If you are planning to use tablets, you want to target a lower CYA level, like 30, as it's not a good idea to use tablets if your CYA is over 50.

Also, tablets lower PH and TA so monitor those if you will be using tablets.

Why are u adding baking soda? The TA is fine. But if you do plan to use tablets, then keep an eye on the TA.
 
Wait until the stabilizer you added has dissolved and been in the pool for 7 days. You will want to be able to test it and see where it is before you add more. Go ahead and assume you have about 20 in there now and treat the pool accordingly. It is much easier to add more than it is to drain and re-fill. When you do decide to add more, add 1/2 as much as you think you need.
 
Why is my CC rising.

Previous readings 4 hours ago.
PH= 7.2
FC= 10.5
CC= 1
TA=100
CYA=0

added one 96 oz bleach
4 lbs baking soda
aerated

present readings
PH= 7.5
FC= 13.5
CC= 3
TA=120

Is this normal for CC to rise like this?
any other suggestions?
 
update on chemicals overnight:

PH= 7.2
FC= 10
CC= 1.5
TA= 90

On a side note just found that the bottom of my deep end had loads of sand from my sand filter? What could have caused this? This explains why my dead algae is not filtering. The spring on my pentair Eclipse filter I noticed is not locking the valve into place immediately. Could this be the problem? I have to manually push it down to lock it into position. Also my polairis valve that hooks into the side of the pool "not sure what the valve is called" was broken could sand been washed in through this? Sorry for all the questions on a Saturday morning. The joys of pool ownership!
 
Nothing to do with the multi-port valve or the polaris would cause sand to get into the pool.

Sand getting into the pool usually means that there is something broken inside the sand filter, typically a cracked lateral. It is also possible for sand to be blown into the pool from some distance away if there have been high winds.
 
the spring from my multiport valve was broken. Wouldnt this allow the pressure from the pump to push the valve open and allow sand in? I know the sand if from the sand filter for sure. I am talking about 200 lbs of sand low in my filter.
 
No, it can't be the multi-port valve. When a sand filter is working correctly, no sand will come out of the filter at all, either in normal operation or when backwashing. The sand can't get to the multi-port valve, so nothing the multi-port valve does, or fails to do, will make any difference.

On the other hand, if you have a cracked lateral inside the filter, it is easy for sand to get out and into the pool. Opening up the filter and taking the sand out so you can examine the laterals is a pain, but that is the next thing you need to do (or hire someone to do for you).
 

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