Hi all, newb here

[Stevenlane]

Found this forum yesterday while trying to clear the swamp. Like others, I left the pool store frustrated - now I am trying to begin BBB. Water is dark green. Pool surface is in bad condition but it won't be resurfaced until at least next year.

Pool had been dirty through winter with all sediment on bottom. Began vaccuming and running the robotic which clouded the water. Thought I was on track, then came the green bloom. Began using liquid bleach after reading here but Copper was added a week back. TA had been normally 110 and pH was fairly steady at 7.6-7.7 for several weeks and FC was believed to be 2-3. Weather was cold so no activity was noticed.

The only numbers I have today are:
FC: 14
pH: 8.2
TA: 95
These numbers are from an Aquacheck meter and fresh test strips. I have a Taylor DPD Test Kit but all the test supplies are from last year. Are they even worth using?
Pool was completely drained last year for yard/retaining wall construction and as best I recall I had brought the CYA up to about 40 and the CH to around 150. Had been using stabilized 3" tablets and powdered shock (dichlor?) prior to adding Copper Algaecide last week. Local store won't test water stating with FC as high as it is, readings will be invalid.

Since the pool has Copper recently added, what should I do different than the instructions for Green Algae? Considering draining, pressure washing and refilling since it may be easier? Please Help

 

[frustratedpoolmom]

You risk copper staining, but unless you are concerned - if you are planning to resurface next year maybe it's not an issue? Copper also causes green hair.

I think if the DPD kit was stored properly the reagents should be fine - they last several years stored properly. Give it a go.

You can use the dilution method to test your FC up to 20, tho it loses some acccuracy. Use the 'shot glass method' equal parts pool water/distilled or chlorine free water and multiply by 2 will read up to 10; 2:1 ratio up to 15, etc.

Draining and refilling are a personal choice - you have to take into concern the water table and the cost of replacing the water; is the fill water from a well, etc.

Otherwise you can deal with what you have just keep shocking - hopefully the copper level isn't too high.
Will the pool store at least test for copper levels? That would be unaffected by chlorine readings, also CYA levels won't be affected by it, but cold water will throw the results off. Does your DPD kit have CYA reagent?

 

[257WbyMag]

Welcome to TFP!

Yes, we need the CYA reading. If you are able to test CYA with your kit, just let the sample warm up in the house for a bit and then test it. Otherwise, a pool store can check it for you.

 

[Stevenlane]

Finished testing with the test kit. I said I had a Taylor kit, its actually a Leslie's branded kit from Taylor. Likely the one mentioned in this area of the forum. The readings were
FC: 10
TC or Combined: Unable to tell
pH: 7.4/7.5
TA: 50
CH: 210
CYA: 90-100 after filtering water through coffee filter
Checked with the Aquacheck meter at same time and got
FC: 11
pH: 7.4
TA: 50

7th year in house and pool was built in 1968. Have drained on 2 occasions just to reduce CYA but I was using pool services and/or Pool Store science.

My gut feeling is to drain, pressure wash and refill, add a controlled amount of stabilizer and calcium, then live by the BBB methods on this forum. With the CYA this high, I will only get it to acceptable level by draining and replacing at least 2/3rds of the water, right? If I drain the last 1/3 I have no worries about Andrea's hair turning Green. The water will cost about $80.00 and if I maintain things the BBB way I shouldn't have to drain again for a long time. Please let me know if this makes sense.

 

[257WbyMag]

Assuming that your CYA is 100 and not higher, then draining 2/3 would get your CYA down to around 35 ppm, a good level. You may end up needing to add more but it just depends on how much sun your pool gets. By fully draining it, you will rid yourself of the copper for sure.

I'd be careful with the pressure washer because you could end up taking more off than you bargained for. If the stains on the plaster are from algae or other organic sources, then shocking and maintaining a good FC based on your CYA level will lead to their disappearance in time. But if your pressure washer is just begging you to use it, choose a tip that isn't very concentrated and go on low power.

Once the pool is refilled, go ahead and check run a full set of tests again and go from there.

 

[Stevenlane]

This is great having so many experienced people to listen too. Thanks to all.
My pool is now draining and will be ready to clean tomorrow. When the pool is filling I will post again to make sure I'm doing things proper. I've gotten pretty good at draining and filling, now with everyones help I'll get good at keeping it in order so i'm not needing to drain. The pressure washer will stay in the shed. As bad as the surface of my pool is, I can't risk taking off to much. The garden hose and pool brush should be ok?????