YAIP - Another Intex Post

Jul 21, 2008
60
I was thinking of adding a SWG to my Inground pool. I was thinking the Intex will be fine as I just want to make sure there is Chlorine in the pool when I travel. Cutting down on my Sam's Club trips would be awesome too.

I was looking at the 8110 model, but have some questions on hooking it up.

How does it hook up to PVC? Is it easy to get the unions etc... Home Depot/Lowes?

When wiring to electrical I have a 110 outlet that is my the pool, or can I hook it to my 220 timer(just on 1 leg) so that it is only on when the timer is on?

Is there anyone that sells the 220 version?

I was concidering the ebay seller that someone in the forum previously posted. [link::http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-INTEX-56601...tem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item33545c5c40]
 
The 2010 model of the 8110 does remember it's settings after a power loss but I don't know if it will run afterwards. I'll ask my SIL if it does. She has one and loves (of course the copper ionizer is unhooked).

The Ebay unit can't be wired to a timer as it loses it's settings after a power failure. so when the timer turned the power back on it wouldn't remember that it was supposed to run.
 
According to the PDF attatched the 8110 is the one in the Ebay auction... Item 56601 is model 8110.

So, what would be the way to hook it up to ensure it won't come on with out the pool being on?
 

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  • Types of INTEX saltwater system.pdf
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the intex swg has a flow switch inside it...it won't run unless there is water flowing through your plumbing. It can be hooked up using regular sch 40 adapter found at HD or lowes. I believe the female threaded part of the swg is 2" if I recall correctly and can be easily reduced to 1.5" if needed...just remember to use pipe dope on the threads
 
I edited my post to indicate that the 2010 model of the 8110 remembers the settings. The Ebay model looks like the 2009 model, because it doesn't show the copper ionizer, which does not remember it's settings. Sorry for the confusion.
 
dmanb2b said:
the intex swg has a flow switch inside it...it won't run unless there is water flowing through your plumbing. It can be hooked up using regular sch 40 adapter found at HD or lowes. I believe the female threaded part of the swg is 2" if I recall correctly and can be easily reduced to 1.5" if needed...just remember to use pipe dope on the threads

thanks dman
So the unit will be a-ok if the pool timer somehow gets miss set during a trip... We had a 8 hour power outage last summer that would cause all types of havoc.

thanks again Bama... now I understand...

Do you recommend the 2010 model with copper off over the 2009 then or is the flow less on the newer model?
 
Bama Rambler said:
I'd recommend the 2009 model. It has greater chlorine output and no copper ionizer.

I'd also put the SWG on a UPS to alleviate the power outage issues.

What type of power connection comes on this thing? Bear wires, standard 3 prong, I have an old UPS sitting in my shed that I may be able to get working again...

___________________________________________________________________
I love increasing my forum post count....
 
standard 3 prong...and it will just throw a low flow error and not run if the pump timing is off. I second the 2009 model...they are on ebay for about $135 shipped "buy-it-now"...the 2010's run around $165. I got our from this seller

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=350164547679&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

And here is a pic of the mods I did plumbing-wise to get it plumbed with 1.5" pvc

http://s702.photobucket.com/albums/ww30/dmanb2b/?action=view&current=IMG_1074.jpg

please note that the pic shows dwv fittings vs. sch 40 pvc which I would suggest you use if you decide to go down this route...good luck
 

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Intex came in Monday evening... and I got it all installed today...
The plumbers seal is still curing so I can't test it, but I am confident we will making our own Chlorine by Thursday Evening.
I also wired in an outdoor 120v circuit to plug in the unit....

Photo included... you can see my pump was painted tan by the motor repair shop when they replaced the bearings...
intex.JPG
 
Looks Great!
What kind of unions are those on the ends? Did you not use the inlet filter screen (I was surprised at what all it catches!)? I hope that you put in a GFCI outlet under that "in use" outlet cover. :goodjob:
 
I tried to fix the leak issue I had by removing the flowmeter T, and using some #5 Pipe Sealant... it still leaked... so I followed dmanb2b's suggestion of Oatey's Great White Pipe Compound... With the Great White the T was able to tighten up far more than it had with Teflan tape or the Yellow #5 stuff... After the install i let the Great White dry for a couple hours and wiped the excess the best I could... I then applpied a bead of Blue RTV automotive sealant around the joints. NO MORE LEAKS.
 
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