I have a 24' Vogue AGP that we'll be installing in a week or two, and had a question about the cove. I've done a lot of reading about using a foam cove or building one up with sand, but my pool has one built in. It's in two sections, one built into the bottom track, and another piece that snaps into it. The instructions say this is enough, but is it really? Or do I still need to build it up?
Pool cove question
- Thread starter cheddar85
- Start date
I'd like to see a pic of it but I suspect it's probably ok if it specifically states that it is.
Sorry for the late reply, been busy clearing out the area we're putting the pool on. It just happens to be where a shed used to be standing before Ike came through and there was a LOT of stuff in it that has to be moved.
Anyway, I'll try to get a pic up later today.
Anyway, I'll try to get a pic up later today.
Here's the pics (one day I WILL figure out how to get them to show directly here!)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/47779136@N08/4602329508/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/47779136@N08/4602328304/
The first shows the entire bottom rail section, at each end it connects to another section and the uprights also connect at those points.
The second is a closer view of the guides, the one at the top of the pic is for the wall, the one underneath it is for the other piece of the cove that snaps into it.
Also, I know you're not supposed to put the sand underneath the uprights, so how can I put sand under the liner without covering up the built in cove? Just build a sand cove on top of what's already there? I've tried looking through old posts, but haven't seen a bottom rail like this one before.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/47779136@N08/4602329508/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/47779136@N08/4602328304/
The first shows the entire bottom rail section, at each end it connects to another section and the uprights also connect at those points.
The second is a closer view of the guides, the one at the top of the pic is for the wall, the one underneath it is for the other piece of the cove that snaps into it.
Also, I know you're not supposed to put the sand underneath the uprights, so how can I put sand under the liner without covering up the built in cove? Just build a sand cove on top of what's already there? I've tried looking through old posts, but haven't seen a bottom rail like this one before.
- Apr 8, 2007
- 1,616
- Pool Size
- 17450
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
So those sections in the pictures are the bottom rail sections that have some sort of "guide" for cove pieces to go into or is that actually some sort of cove material already on that rail section? It's hard to tell from the pix - also what type of material is the cove that is supplied? I would guess if the cove is built right on the rail section, you may want to have your site leveled, then put some type of "crusher run" under the rail sections - level that as close to perfect as possible. It would be ever so slightly higher than the center of the pool where the sand would be placed and go to the bottom edges of the cove material. I don't know if you plan to install some kind of "Happy Bottom" or Gorilla Pad over the sand or not.
I'll try to explain better (it kind of confuses me too!)...the bottom rail has the first guide (at the top of the pic) for the wall. The guide below that is for the snap in section for the cove(which I believe is a type of rubber). However...the bottom rail is also a section of the cove. At the side opposite the guides it starts out narrow and gets increasingly wider as it gets to the guides. It makes a slope from the inside to the outside, like you would do with a sand cove. Does that make more sense? I'm sort of having a hard time explaining it.
The piece that snaps into it is shaped more like a foam cove, only smaller, and made of rubber. The way they fit together makes about a gradual curve as possible, so I would think nothing else is necessary.
Now, as far as site prep...under the liner I only plan on using sand. I know the ground is very solid, but since there has been a shed there for 20 years, I'm not sure about drainage. From what I can tell, there won't be much work leveling the site, so I can do it myself. Since I live in the boonies, no one has anything like crusher run here. The closest I could get it would be 60-70 miles away, and for how much they want, I'll put the pool directly on the ground before I pay that much. It's THAT bad. When I say 'nothing like crusher run' I mean only sand around here. Ridiculous, isn't it?
Thanks for the help, if you have any more advice to offer, I'd appreciate it.
The piece that snaps into it is shaped more like a foam cove, only smaller, and made of rubber. The way they fit together makes about a gradual curve as possible, so I would think nothing else is necessary.
Now, as far as site prep...under the liner I only plan on using sand. I know the ground is very solid, but since there has been a shed there for 20 years, I'm not sure about drainage. From what I can tell, there won't be much work leveling the site, so I can do it myself. Since I live in the boonies, no one has anything like crusher run here. The closest I could get it would be 60-70 miles away, and for how much they want, I'll put the pool directly on the ground before I pay that much. It's THAT bad. When I say 'nothing like crusher run' I mean only sand around here. Ridiculous, isn't it?
Thanks for the help, if you have any more advice to offer, I'd appreciate it.
- Apr 8, 2007
- 1,616
- Pool Size
- 17450
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Ok so your bottom rail is quite wide to accomodate the rubber cove material that goes into it and has a "slot" on the back portion to allow the steel wall to fit in. Got it. You have cove, why add more.
As for the "crusher run" I get the same response you heard on that, ha. They just didn't have crushed limestone in our area of the state like they do other areas. Kind of depends on what the resources are in your area. We live way in the boonies too. Many of the gravel hauling companies actually have their pits they haul from way out in the boonies too, so it wouldn't hurt to call around. Also most of them haul masons sand and something they call "Class 5" which is what they use to get a nice solid pack for parking lots. That is what we used under ours, then we ran a plate compacter over it several times to get it really solid. We got it from the Rent-All in town, then put our sand down. Before you get to that step though I would suggest you make sure you have that site where the rails will sit completely solid and completely LEVEL using a tripod transit and site of line stick. Some people are OK being off 1/2" and hope they don't move with settling or seasonal heaves, but if you want it done right the first time, avoid being off more than 1/4" can really cause problems with that pool wall.
We are replacing our liner this coming weekend and are putting Gorilla Bottom under the liner on top of 1" of the sand this time around and no sand cove - the friction between the sand, liner and ice moving this winter put so many holes all the way around in our cove that it would have been impossible to patch/mend.
As for the "crusher run" I get the same response you heard on that, ha. They just didn't have crushed limestone in our area of the state like they do other areas. Kind of depends on what the resources are in your area. We live way in the boonies too. Many of the gravel hauling companies actually have their pits they haul from way out in the boonies too, so it wouldn't hurt to call around. Also most of them haul masons sand and something they call "Class 5" which is what they use to get a nice solid pack for parking lots. That is what we used under ours, then we ran a plate compacter over it several times to get it really solid. We got it from the Rent-All in town, then put our sand down. Before you get to that step though I would suggest you make sure you have that site where the rails will sit completely solid and completely LEVEL using a tripod transit and site of line stick. Some people are OK being off 1/2" and hope they don't move with settling or seasonal heaves, but if you want it done right the first time, avoid being off more than 1/4" can really cause problems with that pool wall.
We are replacing our liner this coming weekend and are putting Gorilla Bottom under the liner on top of 1" of the sand this time around and no sand cove - the friction between the sand, liner and ice moving this winter put so many holes all the way around in our cove that it would have been impossible to patch/mend.
Yeah the bottom rail is right at 6" wide. I read somewhere on here or poolforum that pea gravel was okay to use too, and there's someone not too far away that I think I can get that from. I'm going to try to call them tomorrow for pricing. What they call 'masons sand' out here where I live is anything but...always has quite a few rocks and sticks in it. Luckily years ago my dad made a contraption that goes over your wheelbarrow (or whatever you're moving sand with) that screens out everything in the sand. Works like a charm every time.
I've gotta check tomorrow if our local rental yard has compactors and transits, if not, that's yet another long drive. I love not living in the city, but it does have it's downsides...
Since you've been around here for a while, here's a question. Have you ever seen or heard of a pool with the bottom rail like mine?
I've gotta check tomorrow if our local rental yard has compactors and transits, if not, that's yet another long drive. I love not living in the city, but it does have it's downsides...
Since you've been around here for a while, here's a question. Have you ever seen or heard of a pool with the bottom rail like mine?
- Apr 8, 2007
- 1,616
- Pool Size
- 17450
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Nope, definitely a first time for me to see that! Very interesting concept - I mean you need a cove, many people are going out of their way to buy an "aftermarket" foam cove they install with an adhesive back (me included) so why not? If it's a rubber type material it should hold it's shape and place well since it installs into the wider track. Sounds like a very sturdy solution. I'd like to hear how it all works out for you. PICTURES needed as you install!!!