1st time Testing. TFP Newbie

Jump to latest Follow Reply
Last test last night it was 12ppm at 10:30 pm. At 6am(Wife took it) we had a reading of 10. When I came home from work at 10am it was 8ppm. Just added more LC to get it back up to 12ppm. Second photo is the deep end 10'+.

pool2.jpg

pool1.jpg
 
Water is crystal clear(Check out my pictures). I stayed up late and didn't get to check it until I woke up at 11am. I will keep up the FC to 12 today and check at night and get my wife to test before sunrise as I am a night owl. All the CYA is dissolved now too. I have some sand/fine particles in the pool that my new Active 60 bot is just not getting. I've been sending it out 3 times a day and it keeps missing spots. Been trying to reach Marina's but they aren't answering the phones and I sent an email yesterday morning, think I have a defective unit.
 
Last night I tested at 9pm it was 12.5 then my wife checked it at 8am it was 8.0, then I just checked it at 12:30 it is at 6.5. So it looks like it is still burning the LC. Do I need to do a more thorough scrub of the pool? I used the active 60 bot 3 times again yesterday and I vacuumed that sand/debris sediment last night before I tested at 9pm. The pool is crystal clear I can see across the whole thing with no cloudiness. What should I be doing to get this SLAM process complete? Does this have anything to do with my PH being low at the start of the SLAM? I could turn on my slide to aerate the water some to get the PH up?
 
GeorgeChicago said:
Does this have anything to do with my PH being low at the start of the SLAM?
Click to expand...
No. High pH makes water dull.

When you pass OCLT - sounds like you will be good. Hopefully pool is clearer than the picture you posted Monday.
 
  • Like
Reactions: GeorgeChicago

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
We finally did it, last night at midnight it was 11.0 and this morning at 8am it was 10.0!!! Didn't think it was going to hold, we had some rain last night and there were leaves in the pool. Going to test after lunch for CC. If that passes, what are my next steps? Think TA and PH test and throw in a CYA test for good luck? Thanks again for helping me get to this point.
 
  • Like
Reactions: AK-
As FC will be below 10 ppm, run a full suite of tests for the record.

May want to consider raising CYA to 40 or 50 ppm. Maintain your FC in the target range.
 
  • Like
Reactions: GeorgeChicago
I was told by the pool store certain PH levels hurt the Heater. Had a zinc anode installed yesterday too, they were out of stock when they installed the IC60 SWG. I see bubbles coming out of my returns now. They are larger than the ammonia bubbles. Not sure if it air that was trapped when they installed it. I'll watch it for now.

Here are the test results
FC 8.0
CC 0.5
TA 150
CYA 35~
PH 7.2

Just the TA stands out to me, what do you think? Should I raise the CYA right away now? I will be adding Salt(after Sunday) once you give me the okay and start messing with the IC 60.
 
Low pH is very bad for a heater. Sub 7 for extended periods of time. High pH has no effect unless you have very high CH and TA.
No reason to specifically address TA. When your pH rises to 8, lower it to 7.6.
If you have passed SLAM criteria start to add salt and raise your CYA to 70 ppm. Be sure to increase your FC as necessary to keep in target range for the projected CYA.
An anode is entirely unnecessary and has more potential to damage things as the metal from it goes into the pool water. What metal in your pool system are your trying to protect from galvanic corrosion? The heat exchanger is copper, which does not have that issue.
 
mknauss said:
Low pH is very bad for a heater. Sub 7 for extended periods of time. High pH has no effect unless you have very high CH and TA.
No reason to specifically address TA. When your pH rises to 8, lower it to 7.6.
If you have passed SLAM criteria start to add salt and raise your CYA to 70 ppm. Be sure to increase your FC as necessary to keep in target range for the projected CYA.
An anode is entirely unnecessary and has more potential to damage things as the metal from it goes into the pool water. What metal in your pool system are your trying to protect from galvanic corrosion? The heat exchanger is copper, which does not have that issue.
Click to expand...
We have metal ladders. Wish I seeked more info here instead of the pool company and some YouTube videos.
 
GeorgeChicago said:
We have metal ladders. Wish I seeked more info here instead of the pool company and some YouTube videos.
Click to expand...
Many, if not most, Pool $tores are more concerned in selling you something than helping you. Be aware of that, be skeptical and you will never again buy something from a PS that you don’t know if you need or not.
 
  • Like
Reactions: clambert1273
Hey everyone, the pool has been going great so far. Just converted to Salt on Tuesday. I was at 35 on the CYA I added 1lb and it is now at 50 3days later. I will add another 1 bag and that should make it 65.
Current levels
- FC 1 (Salt cell was at 20% only I just bumped it up to 60%) and added 2 gallons of LC to get in the right range for the current CYA level.
- TA 130
- PH 7.8
- CYA 50 will be 65 I hope after today.
- Salt 3800

Thanks Martin for helping me learn about the chemistry of my pool!
 
  • Like
Reactions: mknauss
You must log in or register to reply here.
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.
Top Bottom
Back
Jump to latest Follow Reply