High CYA question

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I guess I got in a hurry and quit before I finished. :oops:

What I should have said was; Don't worry too much about adjusting anything until you get your TF-100 kit and can accurately measure things.

We recommend Muratic acid to adjust pH downward. Be aware that it fumes and you don't want to breath it. They make half strength that doesn't fume as much or you can use dry acid (pH down or pH-) if you really have a problem handling the Muratic acid. We don't recommend the dry acid because it add sulfates to your water and that's just something you don't need.
 
josemary9 said:
They use an automated machine thing to test CYA and the rest...my OTO pH test did not seem too high....sooo....use the acid stuff to lower pH? What does the forum recommend to use to lower pH?

She mentioned the test wont go over 10ppm for TC but would have signaled if too high somehow....prob because I threw a bag of shock in thinking the CYA was high...
Click to expand...

What's in that bag of shock? Is it cal-hypo?
 
Ok..got my kit today..tht was fast!
I just tested all but CYA...it was getting dark...I will prob do again, I was just excited..what is the best lighting to do the testing? Also, is it ok to rinse in the pool..throwing the solutions in the pool each test?

results
FC: 5.5
CC: 1.1
TC: 6.5
pH:7.5/7.6
T/A: 170
CH:220

T/A looks high...pool store had my pH at 7.8...did not add decreaser so maybe test once more to double check? What does high T/A mean?

Please comment
 
josemary9 said:
Did pool calulator..to lower T/A I should lower pH with acid and aerate..how do you aerate?
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Anything that produces bubbles or splashes. I've seen reports of anything from pointing the returns up to roil the surface a little, to homebuilt PVC monster fountains. Splashing around in the pool works too.

Strictly speaking, the aeration isn't required, it just makes the process go faster.
--paulr
 
josemary9 said:
Ok..got my kit today..tht was fast!
I just tested all but CYA...it was getting dark...I will prob do again, I was just excited..what is the best lighting to do the testing? Also, is it ok to rinse in the pool..throwing the solutions in the pool each test?

results
FC: 5.5
CC: 1.1
TC: 6.5
pH:7.5/7.6
T/A: 170
CH:220

T/A looks high...pool store had my pH at 7.8...did not add decreaser so maybe test once more to double check? What does high T/A mean?

Please comment
Click to expand...

Ok, ph is good. :goodjob:

TA is a little high - but you can retest that and try something - wipe the tip of the R-0009 dropper bottle with a damp cloth, in between drops. Static electricity can cause the drops to come out of the bottle in irregular sizes which can make the test read higher than it really is. So redo that test with the damp cloth trick and see if the level drops.

170 is high but as Paul said, aeration simply speeds up the process. What you can simply do is every time the PH hits 7.8, lower it to 7.2 with muratic acid. The acid additions will also lower the TA, slowly, and over time, as you repeat this process, the TA will eventually come into range. There is no reason to speed the process up if you don't want to. :wink:

Do the CYA test outside on a sunny day, with your back to the sun, so that your body shades the view tube.

Now, the bad news. A CC of 1.1 means you need to shock the pool. :cry:

Read:
Shocking Your Pool

And hold the FC at shock level until the CC is .5 or lower.

Let us know your CYA level and we'll help you confirm what your shock level should be. :wink:

(as to what to do with the samples, some people dump them on to the ground, back in the pool, etc., others pour them down the drain with running water, etc. there doesn't seem to be a set rule). But it's a good idea to rinse the bottles out with tap water after use. Wipe out the "chlorine only" cylinder with a paper towel - it helps it stay clear (it tends to cloud up from the FAS-DPD powder.)
 
Review your testing procedure for the FC and CC test. The test will not yield a 1.1 result for CC's. Post back up if you need help.

Post your CYA results (that'll be your hardest test to master.) If you are unsure when the dot disappears, pour the mixture back out of the view tube and then back in. You can do that several times and get a good average of what you think it is. Don't be too surprised if it varies widely from the pool store results.

How does your water look today?

Don't shock until you find your error on the CC's test and report your CYA.....perhaps don't shock at all but the corrected test results will tell us what to do.

I suggest you ignore the TA and make that your last adjustment (it may not even need adjusting)
 
ok...today's testing..
FC: 4.5
CC: 0
TC: 4.5
pH: 7.4
T/A: at 150 it turned clear with red streaks and 160 completely red
CH:260
CYA: Around 80...thats still high!!! I will do CYA again tomorrow since it was my first time testing...you dont want to see the dot at all right...like completely cloudy?

I did add 30oz of Muriatec acid last night to lower pH so now just dont stress T/A? Every time pH gets high add some acid and T/A will gradually decrese over time?

THNAK YOU
 

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josemary9 said:
I did add 30oz of Muriatec acid last night to lower pH so now just dont stress T/A? Every time pH gets high add some acid and T/A will gradually decrese over time?
Click to expand...
That is right. Your TA is tolerable. As long as you maintain your PH in a reasonable range, the TA level will drift down over time.
 
How to Chlorinate Your Pool

You have to test the chlorine each night and add enough to keep you above your "min" for your CYA level. You never want it to fall below that, you have to add it each day.

You'll need to add enough to reach your "target" (refer to the CYA chart) and then do an overnight test tonight to make sure it's holding. IF it's not, you need to shock. If it is, you need to add a little each night. Use the Pool Calc after you test to determine how much that is.

Does that make sense? :) Hope this helps.
 
Not necessarily, The first thing to do is bring the FC back into range immediately, if not sooner. Then check for CC's and if the FC's been low for a while run an overnight chlorine drop test. Depending on those two tests, we'll know if you need to shock or not.

(she beat me to it again) :rant:
 
Ok..so I have the capsules if chlorine in a floater all the time...when my chlorine goes down like this, can I use the backs of shock..it doesnt mean I am shocking right? Just getting chlorine up...it is raining now and pool needed some water so hose is in. Should I just get some bleach already!!?? Seems the CYA is still high...I have not tested since first time at 80..I have not been home, its overcast, should I do it? This is more work than I thought!
 
Bleach. Liquid chlorine.
Not bags of shock.
Shock is something you do, not something you buy.
It's not more work, I think you are just feeling a bit overwhelmed (been there, done that :))... in time this will all click for you and become second nature.
Just keep reading everything and eventually it will sink in, I promise. Hey, I didn't get my screenname for nothing.

(sorry Bama! :mrgreen: :whip: )
 
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