Pool Frog Hybrid System - Please Explain

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douglee25

0
Apr 14, 2010
92
Philadelphia, PA
We just bought a house with a Pool Frog Hybrid system on it. I emphasize 'hybrid' because I searched and could not find any posts with the word hybrid in it. I see many say to get rid of the Frog system. On King Technologies web site, they list a regular pool frog system that is not the hybrid system. The regular system appears to lack the SWG.

My question is this - The system I have appears to be a SWG system. Is that correct? I have compared the instructions of this system to others that are in fact SWG systems, and they are very similar in regards to initial salt water ppm adjustments, etc.

The manual is here - http://www.kingtechnology.com/pdf/manua ... Hybrid.pdf

If in fact this is a SWG, is there anything good/bad with this model?

Please advise.

Thanks again.

Doug
 
It seems that it is an SWG designed to only produce a low output, more of their claim that you do not need as much chlorine if you are willing to keep enough silver and/or copper and/or whatever 'minerals' that they introduce into the water.
The discussions as to whether or not the minerals have a fast enough kill time and how much it may take to stain hair and pools have been had before, but if the SWG isn't sized to be sufficient for a given pool size, then it will likely not produce enough FC and running it at it's max capacity willl not help the cell longevity.

It may help keep FC in the pool, but you may have to supplement it with extra chlorine.
 
In theory you could leave the mineral cartridge cannister empty (as a former Frog user I highly advise you don't use this mineral product or follow the sanitation advice of King Tech) but I am not familiar with this model to know if the SWG portion will operate without the mineral cart installed; it's also unclear (as Ohm_Boy stated) if the SWG will produce an adequate level of chlorine. King Tech's recommendation of .5-1ppm will not leave you with a sanitary pool.

I would try to operate the SWG portion with the cannister empty, following the recommended levels on our site - it may take a bit of trial and error to find the adequate settings/run time to produce the proper levels of chlorine in relation to your CYA level.
 
Thanks for help. The unit should be able to run without the mineral pack. I tested the pool over the weekend and then today. I haven't been paying much attention to TA or CH much at this point. I know CYA is low and it should be brought up.

My results....

PH - 7.5
FC - 1 to 1.5
CC - 0 to 0.5
TA - 150 (last week)
CH - 200 (last week)
CYA - 30

The pool is crystal clear and has been so for a couple weeks. FC has been dropping since it was originally super chlorinated after opening. FC was around 3 or so about two weeks ago, but I turned down the SWG and then we got a ton of rain for 2 days. I have since cranked the SWG up all the way in order to run a test and see how much the FC will come back up over a day or two. Upon reading the pool school tips, I see the recommendation is to run a higher FC with an SWG. I probably should have left the SWG where it was instead of turning it down.

Doug
 
frustratedpoolmom said:
(I didn't even know they made this... :roll: )
Click to expand...

When I moved in, they left me the pool guy's number who has been servicing the pool for 5+ years. I figured what the heck, I'll give him a buzz and see what he has to say about the entire pool system. He told me he swore by the Frog SWG systems. He says he puts one mineral pack in the unit at the beginning of the season after he initially balances the pool, and the pools remain crystal clear for the entire summer. He says all his customers have had positive things to say about the systems. He even went on to say that for those that don't believe him how well they work, he said he installs them on his dime, and then has the customer run it for a while. If they're not happy, he takes them out. He claims he hasn't uninstalled one yet?

Just sayin.... :mrgreen:

I'll monitor it for a while and see how things look. I'll report back shortly.

Doug
 
Yeah, I got tired of spending a minimum of $400 a summer on pool frog and related poolstore chems and when I researched it more (and eventually found TFP) I took it out and never looked back. Now I spend less than $75 a year. I couldn't even buy the mineral cart for that....
 
OK here's the results....

I ran the SWG wide open from 11PM to 6AM. I turned it off before I went to work and then the timer kicked it back on at 8AM until 6PM this evening.

I tested at 6AM and my results were:

PH - 7.8
FC - 3.5
CC - 0.5
TA - 150
CH - 170
CYA - 30

I tested it at 5PM today and my results were:

PH - 7.8
FC - 4
CC - 0

The pool and spa are approximately 28,000 gallons combined. I think the Frog SWG did fairly well. Would you agree? Should I dial down the SWG at this point and target FC - 4 or keep it up until I hit TC - 5?

Here's my next plan - let me know what you think?

1. Add muriatic acid to bring PH down to 7.0, then aerate. Repeat process to bring TA down.
2. After I get TA into range then bring up CYA.

Or should I do it the other way around? I believe the pool school says do #2 then #1.

Thanks again.

Doug
 
Go ahead and raise the CYA and begin to Lower the TA - you can do them both at the same time.
So it may be able to keep up - I would think at the higher CYA level you should be able to dial it down a bit.
Good luck, let us know how it goes. :)
 

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