Beginning conversion from Baqua to chlorine

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jule

jule

0
May 1, 2010
139
New London, Wisconsin
Hello all! I posted some of my pool owner history in the just getting started section and my desire to convert from Baquacil to chlorine. Looking through the topics, I think this is where I need to be, right?

The TF-100XL test kit I ordered from the web on Saturday should arrive on Wednesday. In the meantime I took a water sample into the pool store to test for residual Baqua levels from last summer. I'm not sure how to relate some of these numbers to the ones everyone seems to be using here, so a little help if you can?
___________________________________________________
first numbers =current second numbers=ideal
Saturation Indx: -0.4 -.3 -+.3
TDS not tested <2500
Softswim B 6 30-50 (sanitizer)
Softswim C 2 20 (oxidizer/clarifier)
ph 7.1 7.4-7.8
Tot Alkalinity 95 blank
Adjusted Alkalinity 95 125-150
Tot Hardness 302 200-275
Optimizer Plus not tested 30-35
Copper 0.2 0
Iron not tested 0
Manganese no no
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Is total hardness the same as calcium hardness? If so, I'm a bit suprised as every year the calcium hardness level has to be increased. The pool store tests my water through the start up process until things get under control, so I follow their directions.
We fill with well water, so as a rule the ph starts off high. This test shows it low and that's never occured before. I topped up the pool before this test. The only chemical added so far this season was a 16 0z bottle of Baquacil flocculent which I've used in the past to clear the water so all from bottom would vacuum to waste. I added this with the water still at its winter level. It had no effect. After getting the water tested today, I vaccumed to waste. The bottom is less muddy now than in the photo. I plan to vacuum to waste again on Monday night.
I purchased two cases of liquid chlorine shock last week and plan to redo the above test on Tuesday to discover the residual Baquacil content before adding any of the chlorine. Since I've vacuumed to waste once and will again, there will be fresh water and most of the muck gone and less algae to deal with. Hopefully my test kit will be here on Wednesday so I'll have a better idea of where things are at. And I need to study the pool calculator more. I looked at it but some of the numbers didn't change when I entered things while playing with it.

Will keep you posted on progress and really, I'm hoping it won't take as much chlorine to get it clear as some have had to use. Test kit, new cartridge filters, two cases of shock, flocculent, and I'm close to $200.00 already with still a green pool. ARGH!
 

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I recommend converting to chlorine. It is less expensive and more reliable in the long run.

Total hardness (TH) includes calcium hardness (CH) and hardness from a couple of other elements (primarily magnesium). Typically CH is about 2/3s of TH, though it varies a bit.

The algae green will go away very quickly, but it will be replaced by some other "interesting" colors during the conversion.
 
Your numbers are fine for beginning the conversion - your PH is at 7.1 and we recommend adjusting it down to 7.2 before beginning anyway. TA is good. CH is pretty much irrelevant for a vinyl pool (but it doesn't surprise me that they didn't tell you that.) Your cases are probably equal to 16-20 regular clorox jugs and I've seen a lot of conversions take around 40. So when you open the second case go ahead and buy another one. :)
 
Thank you for the feedback. I wasn't sure if I needed to raise the ph before I started. And it helps to know the ration of the liquid chlorine to the clorox. Another case or two of the liquid chlorine is easier than buying out the liquid bleach in the grocery store. (Hence, I won't be feeding my husband's opinion of my weirdness...lol)

Took these out of my skimmer while preparing to vacuum. At first I thought it was ONE very large frog/toad. Funny, they never separated while in my gloved hand or hopping around on the cement. I carried them over to the garden.
 

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My test kit arrived yesterday and the weather prediction for the next few days is cold with possible "snow showers" tomorrow. The only good thing about this is - no sun to eat up the chlorine.

Quick question - My pool water has suspended floating particles in it. Should I be filtering it for testing or not? The previous two store tests were filtered, meaning I used old panty hose over my fill bottle to prevent gunk from getting in it. In considering this, it seems that whatever is afloat has absorbed Baquacil which would make a difference in the test results.

Jule
 
Filtering for testing isn't important as long as the water is still reasonably transparent. If there is so much stuff in the water that you can't see through the test vial it can throw things off, but a few bits here and there won't cause any problems.
 
Conversion in process

Okay, I've begun. Added two cases liquid chlorine. Kept waiting for the brown water, but it didn't happen. Less than an hour later my pool is 'carribean green'. I attempted to all the testss before adding the shock. Got a ph of 7.2 and no chlorine/bromine. Then realized the kit I have is TFT 100, not the 100XL I ordered. The kits appear to have identical stuff on the site, 7 tests, however reading the little chart for the chlorine test, it says something about 'updating to a kit with DPD and more tests'. I ordered the TFT100XL as it was recommended for BAqua conversions. I phoned and left a message, but cannot do further tests until the kit issue is resolved. So, for now, am running the filter, using a sock in the skimmer basket to prevent most of the yuck from reaching the filters. Here's a look at the first 45 minutes:

[attachment=2:3llo59us]5-7a_beforeshocking.gif[/attachment:3llo59us]
[attachment=1:3llo59us]5-7b_8minlater_4galsin.gif[/attachment:3llo59us]
[attachment=0:3llo59us]5-7c_39min_wallandbottombrushed.gif[/attachment:3llo59us]

Getting some small bubbles floating around now and of course the chlorine oder is present. My current options are to test chlorine with the kit, or guess by oder as to further liquid shock additions. I have two more cases of that. Is it wise to add both at the same time or add a gallon every hour or so as those who use bleach do? Will need to get other chems but wanted to know what and how much before I shop.
 

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Went ahead and tested for chlorine and ph. Thought I'ds share this, as the chlorine tube looks interesting. After roughly one hour and a half, color hasn't changed much from the last photo. How to proceed?
[attachment=0:2unk0wrn]first_test_results.jpg[/attachment:2unk0wrn]
 

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If you got the TF-100 you should have two chlorine tests, the one you used from inside the inner blue box and another one, the FAS-DPD test, that the directions on the kit label as being for weekly testing. You should test the FC level with the "weekly" chlorine test. The instructions also explain how to test for CC, but you can skip that part for now.
 

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48 hours into conversion - first appearance of sunshine - rinsed cartridge filters once (second day) - on third skimmer sock - added 14 gallons of liquid chlorine shock so far. No other ingredients! Have 2 bottles left, which I will add tonight before back to store.

I ran a complete test even though still in conversion process.

FC 14
CC 2
TA 16
ph 7.5
TA 115
CH 130-150
CYA 0

Can someone recommend a flocculent to use? I have the unopened Baquacil flocculent but it was suggested not to use this. History tells me I will not get this water clear without some floc and vacuuming to waste. I still have my hose hooked up for that purpose. What to buy?

48 hours into conversion:
[attachment=0:1f732vah]48hrsin&14galliquidshock.jpg[/attachment:1f732vah]
 

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Your low CC level means things are going well. :goodjob:

What are you using for testing? If your TA reading is correct, your TA level is way too low. But I am always suspicious of testers that give exact numbers rather than the nearest multiple of 10, since that is most common with test kits that are not very reliable. You should measure the PH and TA again the next time the FC level is below 5.

You don't want to use any floc, it really isn't needed. You do want to vacuum up any debris that does settle to the bottom.
 
Your TA is higher than I would recommend in the long run, but it isn't high enough to cause any problems during the conversion. An extremely low TA level could have interfered with the conversion, but a slightly high TA level won't interfere with the conversion. Later, when the conversion is over, you will want to work your TA level down, but that isn't something you need to be worrying about right now.
 
Life and rain last night prevented my chlorine dose, so this morning numbers are:
FC 0
CC 1.5
TC 1.5
ph 7.5
TA 140

I've added the pool calc recommeded liquid chlorine shock amount after this test to get the FC back to 15.
Will be off to the store shortly for more, as loosing all of it in 24 hours isn't a good thing. (Thought there should at least be some chlorine reading, right?)
It's cool, cloudy and raining off and on, so no sun to eat it up.
 

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