Newbie - Green water

May 2, 2010
25
Central Indiana
We purchased a home last year with a 38' x 18' pool (3' in the shallow end and 12' in the deep end --> roughly 35,000 gal, I think). We had a total reset done last summer because the house was in an estate and the pool had not been taken care of. No problems last year.

When we opened it this year, the water was crystal clear with a small amount of leaves and other debris. The local pool company came out and removed the plugs and turned on the pumps. This turned the water milky blue. I did chemical tests:

FC: 0
TC: 0
pH: 7.2
TA: 240
CH: 310
CYA: 0

The FC was 0, so to prevent algae formation, I dumped in some shock, closed the cover and went to work. When I came home, the water was a murky brown/green. After consulting with Leslie's, we added more shock and Green to Clean, which required us to drop a ton of soda ash into the pool. The result: less brown water, but still green enough that you couldn't see the bottom step.

Back to Leslie's, this time they wanted us to check the sand in our sand filter. When we took the multiport valve off the filter, we accidentally pulled the standpipe (and the laterals) up through the sand. After removing the sand and snagging a sample (which was not green or slimy - it looked like sand), we went back to Leslie's again. They said they didn't know if the sand was ok or not and talked us into new sand since we had it out of the filter already. They also told us to do another Green to Clean process (more soda ash as well). The result: it looked exactly the same. Somewhere along the line, we added CYA.

There is no slime or noticeable film on anything and when brushing the pool, nothing gets stirred up. There is no debris/leaves in the pool. We were sick of wasting money at Leslie's, so we went to another local pool store. They told us we had no phosphates and that the color was most likely from metals and sold us four bottles of Metal Magic. We added it about 10 hours ago, and there is no noticeable difference yet. How long does it take to work? Any other advice? We are taking this M-F off as vacation and hoped to use the pool. I am at my wits end. The sand filter (36" - 600 lbs of sand) has been running continuously for 3 days. The pressure remains fairly steady around 26-28 psig. When I backwashed it today, orangish water came out for about 30 seconds, then it cleared.

My current testing results:

FC: 22
TC: 22
pH: 7.0
TA: 240
CH: 325
CYA: 100

Sorry for the super long post. I thank anyone who can help! :)
 
HI there, welcome! :wave: I can assure you that you have come to the right place.

However, I'm very sorry to be the bearer of bad news but you have been majorly pool stored (but I think you've figured that out... :? )

Your CYA is now way too high. Considering all of the (unneccessary products :grrrr: ) they have told you to add, I recommend you drain 50% of the water out of your pool and add fresh, recirculate and retest and post the results, and then we'll go from there.

How are you testing the water?

Meanwhile, read these articles:

Defeating Algae

Turning Your Green Swamp Back into a Sparkling Oasis

Shocking Your Pool

Lowering Total Alkalinity

(The Lowering TA steps can wait until the shocking process is complete.)

Ok, this is where the work starts, I'm sorry they have given you the run around but I PROMISE you the answers are here and we'll help you rid yourself of the pool stores' for good (if you choose :wink: )
 
frustratedpoolmom said:
HI there, welcome! :wave: I can assure you that you have come to the right place.

However, I'm very sorry to be the bearer of bad news but you have been majorly pool stored (but I think you've figured that out... :? )

Your CYA is now way too high. Considering all of the (unneccessary products :grrrr: ) they have told you to add, I recommend you drain 50% of the water out of your pool and add fresh, recirculate and retest and post the results, and then we'll go from there.

How are you testing the water?

Meanwhile, read these articles:

Defeating Algae

Turning Your Green Swamp Back into a Sparkling Oasis

Shocking Your Pool

Lowering Total Alkalinity

(The Lowering TA steps can wait until the shocking process is complete.)

Ok, this is where the work starts, I'm sorry they have given you the run around but I PROMISE you the answers are here and we'll help you rid yourself of the pool stores' for good (if you choose :wink: )

Thank you for the reply. I was really hoping that draining and refilling wouldn't be necessary, especially after all the $$$ we have dumped into the water that we would throw out. I have read each of the articles that you recommended...in fact, I've done little else for the past several days except research algae and metals, take more tests, run to the pool store, repeat. For my future knowledge, how long should a sequestrant take to remove metals? We have well water and will have to top off the pool from time to time. The test kit that I am using is the Leslie's DPD kit. I think it is made by Taylor. Looks like another trip to the pool store to arrange for a partial drain and refill. Is the recommendation to refill based solely on the CYA level, or would something else have told me to do this earlier? Thanks again.
 
I recommend it now because the CYA level has gotten too high to be practical for your situation. (anything above 80 is too high). It would take ridiculous amounts of chlorine to try to shock a pool with CYA at 100 (and it could be higher since the test vial stops at 100.)

With your kit, you are going to need to supplement it with an FAS-DPD test, which are available ala carte from Taylor or TFtestkits.net. The FAS-DPD test allows you to test FC/CC up to 50ppm and is a drop-count test similar to the TA test where you are looking for the solution to turn from pink to clear, so it's not as subjective as the DPD test. This is much easier to use. :) plus helpful when having to shock as you can read shock levels (which you can't with your DPD test since it only goes up to 5.)

Sequesterant doesn't remove metals. It keeps the metals suspended in solution so that they won't deposit on your pool and stain surfaces. While you may have metals present they are not your main issue. You will likely need additional sequesterant once the refill is complete, and since you 'top off' probably maintenance doses from time to time. I recommend HEDP based sequesterants - Proteam Metal Magic, Jack's Magic and GLB Sequa Sol are three good ones, EDTA ones don't work as well and won't last as long. Look for one of the three I recommend and if you can't find them locally then order online.

Green to Clean often fails to work - and often creates additional problems - I'm actually helping another poster whose situation is eerily similar.

You're main issue was algae and they gave you bad advice on how to clear it - now the CYA is too high and you'll have to start back at square one - but just use liquid chlorine this time.

Once the FC is holding overnight, we can deal with the metals issue (if any) and lowering the TA.

Hope this helps. :)
 
frustratedpoolmom said:
I recommend it now because the CYA level has gotten too high to be practical for your situation. (anything above 80 is too high). It would take ridiculous amounts of chlorine to try to shock a pool with CYA at 100 (and it could be higher since the test vial stops at 100.)

With your kit, you are going to need to supplement it with an FAS-DPD test, which are available ala carte from Taylor or TFtestkits.net. The FAS-DPD test allows you to test FC/CC up to 50ppm and is a drop-count test similar to the TA test where you are looking for the solution to turn from pink to clear, so it's not as subjective as the DPD test. This is much easier to use. :) plus helpful when having to shock as you can read shock levels (which you can't with your DPD test since it only goes up to 5.)

Sequesterant doesn't remove metals. It keeps the metals suspended in solution so that they won't deposit on your pool and stain surfaces. While you may have metals present they are not your main issue. You will likely need additional sequesterant once the refill is complete, and since you 'top off' probably maintenance doses from time to time. I recommend HEDP based sequesterants -http://www.troublefreepool.com/posting.php?mode=quote&f=24&p=168912# Proteam Metal Magic, Jack's Magic and GLB Sequa Sol are three good ones, EDTA ones don't work as well and won't last as long. Look for one of the three I recommend and if you can't find them locally then order online.

Green to Clean often fails to work - and often creates additional problems - I'm actually helping another poster whose situation is eerily similar.

You're main issue was algae and they gave you bad advice on how to clear it - now the CYA is too high and you'll have to start back at square one - but just use liquid chlorine this time.

Once the FC is holding overnight, we can deal with the metals issue (if any) and lowering the TA.

Hope this helps. :)
I apologize :oops: . I do have an FASDPD kit...it is a blue plastic box with liquid tests for chlorine, alkalinity, pH, hardness, and cya (with the black dot). Although, the kit is getting quite depleted after all the testing the past few days. :cry: Is there some sort of filter that I can hook up to my hose to catch the metals that may be in my well water? Having water trucked in may be outside of my budget after the $$$ spent at the pool stores. :cry: One last question for tonight. You said the main issue was algae. My FC has been >25 for 36 hours or so and the water is still green. Is the remaining color a secondary metal problem or still algae? Thanks again.
 
I meant the main issue at the beginning was algae. You may have killed it all off.... have you done an Overnight FC Loss Test? If you have the FAS-DPD test that's good - TFtestkits has cheap refills as do a few other sources, shop around. They may not fit in the little blue box but a better price is more important, right? :)

Is it a clear, transparent green?
I don't know about that hose filter thing, if it works or not. I've not seen many reports of success, if any.
 
frustratedpoolmom said:
I meant the main issue at the beginning was algae. You may have killed it all off.... have you done an Overnight FC Loss Test? If you have the FAS-DPD test that's good - TFtestkits has cheap refills as do a few other sources, shop around. They may not fit in the little blue box but a better price is more important, right? :)

Is it a clear, transparent green?
I don't know about that hose filter thing, if it works or not. I've not seen many reports of success, if any.
I have not done the overnight FC loss test. I'll try that tonight! Thanks for the tip on TFtestkits. The water is clear with a green tint (in a white bucket). In the pool, you can see down about 3-4 feet. There is no growth apparent on the walls and nothing gets stirred up when I brush the bottom.
 
frustratedpoolmom said:
Ok, let us know the loss test results - we'll go from there.

You can't see the bottom of the pool? In the post above you stated you can't see the bottom step. Is that still the case?
yes - when just looking at it, I can just see the bottom step. If I place the brush in the water, I can see it down to about four feet. However, I can't see the design on the liner or anything below about a foot. Thanks.
 
Ok, depending on the overnight loss test we'll go from there. Go out and test, don't add any bleach, just record the FC result - then tommorrow morning BEFORE the sun hits the pool test it again and compare the two results. Post back here and let us know the results.
 

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I have read posts on the forum that mentioned an inline filter you could attach to the hose that claimed to remove metals; but I haven't been able to find any just now. Someone who is more clever about googling than I am needs to try this.
--paulr
 
frustratedpoolmom said:
Ok, depending on the overnight loss test we'll go from there. Go out and test, don't add any bleach, just record the FC result - then tommorrow morning BEFORE the sun hits the pool test it again and compare the two results. Post back here and let us know the results.
Ran out of FAS-DPD reagent during test. :( Guess it will have to wait until tomorrow night. Any chance doing it during the day with the cover on would work?
 
frustratedpoolmom said:
I honestly don't know - I suppose if 0% UV gets thru it would work...
No worries...just learning. Bad news, I went to the pool store to get new FAS-DPD reagent, and they sold me the wrong bottle. I needed R-0871 (FAS-DPD), they gave me R-0001 (DPD). :grrrr: I'm not sure I'll be able to make it back before they close tonight. The good news is that the pool turned from green to blue today. :whoot: However, it is still cloudy. But, the blue makes me feel much better anyway! Whenever the floor jets come on, I can see millions of tiny bubbles that cloud the water in that area of the pool. I take that as a good thing, although, I'm not entirely sure why. Guess I'll let 'er ride and check again in the morning.
 
We are excited to go swimming (we are on vacation this week). Now that the water is blue and cloudy, should I add a clarifier, or try DE in the sand filter as described in the Pool School? Thanks again for all of your help. BTW, made it back to Leslie's and our store does not carry the FAS-DPD reagent, so I am stuck with strips until I can have some shipped to me.
 
Is your CYA still 100? Or did you replace any water?

I would keep it at shock level until the water is clear or you can test with the FAS-DPD test. You have to make sure the algae is dead before you use a clarifier. Yes, you can try DE in the filter if you like.

Trying to run with CYA at 100 is going to be impractical - the test strips (as unreliable as they are stop at 10).

I wouldn't swim until things stabilize and you get the upper hand on this situation - if your CYA is still 100 you really need to do a drain and refill or you'll just continue to have problems.
 

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