tub at a weekend place

Apr 30, 2010
17
I've been reading here quite a bit, learning lots.
Last fall we put a tub on the deck at a cabin we have on a lake. It is a lovely place for a soak. The kids love it. After the install, I followed the dealers recommendations for the couple months it was open and it worked fine, though I think it was more expensive than required. I used some bromine starter, then "Brominating Concentrate" to maintain and a double dose of the same to shock once in a while. Also balanced TA and CH with the recommended and pricey products from my dealer. There was never any perceptible bromine on a test strip after a week away, ( though still clear water) so I started using a bromine tabs floater, and this worked better.
This spring, after doing about the same to get it going, my DW left the floater out for a week, and no shock that week and it was a murky green when I got to it. I tried two shocks with no luck and drained to start again. Now I have gotten back to a good starting point. Bromine starter is in, some bromine concentrate was used to get the level up to about 6. TA and CH are O.K.
I need some tips for managing a tub that I only get to for a day or two once a week. I can't check it more frequently, and when I get up to it, I hope to use it more or less immediately and treat it on my departure. Of the various shock methods what is better for this type of use. We have little kids and there is lots of back and forth from tub to lake, so it gets lots of "stuff" in the water.
I do plan on Buying a good test kit. Partly because once I'm at the cabin the dealer is much too far away. But also because I don't entirely trust them. I don't mind spending a bit more on something that really works better, but I don't want to throw money away at designer baking soda etc.
any suggestions welcome.
Tub is Freeflow Solstice, 1300 l.
 
Welcome to the board. Experts will be along to advise I'm sure..

I'm curious to hear the answers you get as in winter I am not as diligent about the hot tub and sometimes it's buried under snow for days at a time.

I'd like to treat with 5 or so days at a time in mind for winter.
 
I think that's mostly true, the bromine tabs were working O.K., though I had only a few weeks to get the number and rate figured out. This summer will be a much better trial, as it will see a more use by the kids. I guess I'm looking to do what I can to insure the tub is always ready to use on arrival. It's a big part of what we are looking forward to when we go up there, and I don't what everyone to be dissapointed if it's not clear and safe to go in right way.
I am considering a simple bleach shock as we leave each week, ( as opposed to the more expensive double dose of Brominating concentrate). What can I or should I do proactively to maintain pH, TA and CH with this plan, what would I expect the changes to be and how could I counter this, as opposed to just waiting for the imbalance and then adding as required to correct? Is Borax something I should consider for this usage?
Larry
 
I would use borates to stabilize the PH for sure. Also, shocking with bleach before you leave, lastly treat with enzymes weekly to help with the stuff the kids bring in from the lake. With bromine metering dispenser and the above it should stay clear and scum free.
Barry
 
I'll need to learn more about borates, what to use, how much, when how to monitor etc. I'm sure it's here on the forum somewhere. Also what about enzymes, brand? When and how much to use?
thanks for the tips.
Larry
 
tub by the lake said:
I'll need to learn more about borates, what to use, how much, when how to monitor etc. I'm sure it's here on the forum somewhere. Also what about enzymes, brand? When and how much to use?
thanks for the tips.
Larry

I buy Scum Buster (enzyme formula) from on-line store (Spa Depot)
http://www.spadepot.com/shop/Care-Maintenance-C57.aspx

For Borates - 2 ways:
20 mule team borax but you have to also counter with acid since it will raise PH and TA (40 to 50 ppm) the pool calculator can determine how much to add....or purchase a product called ProTeam Gentle Spa which my Spa supply store carries or purchase on-line. This is formulated to be PH neutral. You can also get tests strips from there.
http://www.poolspachemicals.com/store.php?crn=61.
Barry
 
Sounds like Borates are going to be helpful. I'll have to see what I can find available to me in Ottawa Canada. A boric acid product would be nice, so I'm not messing around with muriatic acid as well. I doubt the price difference will matter that much for a small spa, for a product that gets added once per fill. But so far everything I look for is either not available locally or only at crazy prices compared to what I see online in the US. Especially crazy considering a dollar at par. For example the Taylor 2106K kit I'm looking for can only be brought in by special order, at $300!! I'm seeing it online for about $60 US. My filter, a Unicel 5CH-45 is $79 at my pool store, and $29 online. I hate online shopping and dealing with brokerage fees and hassles, but I guess I need to get into it for this stuff.
Is it important or even useful to be able to measure Borates if it's an "add once per fill according to formula on bottle" sort of thing? It sounds like the acceptable range is pretty broad.
If I do get regular borax is my "low and slow", ( dry acid, I think) going to work to bring pH back down? I have a supply of that, whcih I never seem to need to use.
By the way my local source for enzyme has "Spa Perfect" in fact I got a free bottle with my purchase last year, is this an O.K. product?
 
Spa Perfect by Natural Chemistry is a good product if you are looking for an enzyme. You may not need it if you use enough sanitizer/oxidizer (with bromine you might need to use chlorine or MPS to shock if the water gets dull).

As for boric acid, if you can't get that directly, you can find it in Proteam Supreme Plus and apparently BioGuard Optimizer Plus is now boric acid as well (see that the instructions don't say anything about adding acid -- if it doesn't, then it's probably mostly boric acid). You are right that you probably don't have to have test strips for the borates since measuring correctly is all that is needed and you don't have a lot of dilution in the tub and replace the water periodically anyway.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.