I've just opened my pool and shocked it twice > 15 FC. Looks great but still slightly cloudy and would like it pristine.
FC 5.0
pH 7.4
TA 120
CH 200
CYA 70
TDS 700
FC 5.0
pH 7.4
TA 120
CH 200
CYA 70
TDS 700
Cloudy Water w/ Chemistry fine.
- Thread starter 6.5Swede
- Start date
Welcome to TFP!
You have high CYA and your FC of 5 is just at the minimum based on your CYA reading. My guess is that you aren't finished shocking and with a CYA of 70, this means that you must get your FC up to, get ready, 27.5 just to be at shock level. Getting it to 15 isn't doing much for you. If you were to drain some water to get your CYA down, this would allow for lower FC concentrations to do the job.
Is your test kit a Taylor K-2005? If so, you might consider adding a FAS-DPD test to your arsenal. Th FAS-DPD allows you to test accurately for up 50 ppm of FC and will also allow you to test for CC quite accurately too. Check the TF Test Kits website in my signature line for your test kit needs.
I would start reading the Pool School articles (link in my sig) to get familiar with some things that will help you. You can get your pool clear fairly easily with the right testing items and a little bit of information from Pool School.
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One more thing...because your CYA is so high, you need to be careful about adding stabilized forms of chlorine at this point. Any chlorine source that the chemical name begans with trichlor or dichlor should be avoided. The best thing to use is straight bleach since it adds nothing but chlorine, water, and a little bit of salt.
You have high CYA and your FC of 5 is just at the minimum based on your CYA reading. My guess is that you aren't finished shocking and with a CYA of 70, this means that you must get your FC up to, get ready, 27.5 just to be at shock level. Getting it to 15 isn't doing much for you. If you were to drain some water to get your CYA down, this would allow for lower FC concentrations to do the job.
Is your test kit a Taylor K-2005? If so, you might consider adding a FAS-DPD test to your arsenal. Th FAS-DPD allows you to test accurately for up 50 ppm of FC and will also allow you to test for CC quite accurately too. Check the TF Test Kits website in my signature line for your test kit needs.
I would start reading the Pool School articles (link in my sig) to get familiar with some things that will help you. You can get your pool clear fairly easily with the right testing items and a little bit of information from Pool School.
--------
One more thing...because your CYA is so high, you need to be careful about adding stabilized forms of chlorine at this point. Any chlorine source that the chemical name begans with trichlor or dichlor should be avoided. The best thing to use is straight bleach since it adds nothing but chlorine, water, and a little bit of salt.
Howdy neighbor from Flower Mound,
When I shocked the pool I had 0 CYA and added 20 3" tablets of Tri-chlor and I measured the CYA to be 30 but Leslie's measured it at 70. This test is very subjective as to "starts to disappear" and I've just started using my Taylor K-2005, so I'm not real confident of the CYA reading. Also, the tester only goes to 5 FC and I really don't know how high it is. I will buy the FAS-DPD tester tommorrow. I'll get the correct reading of FC and retest my CYA, then shocking it @ whatever level will work.
When I shocked the pool I had 0 CYA and added 20 3" tablets of Tri-chlor and I measured the CYA to be 30 but Leslie's measured it at 70. This test is very subjective as to "starts to disappear" and I've just started using my Taylor K-2005, so I'm not real confident of the CYA reading. Also, the tester only goes to 5 FC and I really don't know how high it is. I will buy the FAS-DPD tester tommorrow. I'll get the correct reading of FC and retest my CYA, then shocking it @ whatever level will work.
Howdy yourself and excellent screen name by the way.
That sounds good. For what it's worth, I would trust your CYA test over that of Leslie's. A note about the CYA test is that it is one of the most difficult tests to "get used to". The way I do it is I perform it outside on a sunny day. Get your sample and find a shady spot to do your reading. That way, you get the indirect light coming into the tube from the side and not from overhead, This is what you want. As soon as the dot disappears, check your reading.
Here's a link to Taylor that provides an example of the CYA test.
http://www.taylortechnologies.com/Chemi ... ntentID=36
Be sure and read up in Pool School.
That sounds good. For what it's worth, I would trust your CYA test over that of Leslie's. A note about the CYA test is that it is one of the most difficult tests to "get used to". The way I do it is I perform it outside on a sunny day. Get your sample and find a shady spot to do your reading. That way, you get the indirect light coming into the tube from the side and not from overhead, This is what you want. As soon as the dot disappears, check your reading.
Here's a link to Taylor that provides an example of the CYA test.
http://www.taylortechnologies.com/Chemi ... ntentID=36
Be sure and read up in Pool School.
Well, 20 trichlor tablets would not raise the CYA to 70, that's for sure. Somewhere around 20...if the CYA was really zero. How did you add the tablets as "shocking" did you crush them or something? (They take a long time to dissolve...)
Was the water cold when you first tested CYA? Was it circulating for several hours before you tested?
Are you certain no other CYA-containing products were added?
Hope this helps
Was the water cold when you first tested CYA? Was it circulating for several hours before you tested?
Are you certain no other CYA-containing products were added?
Hope this helps
Kinda what I was thinking too. After I thought about it, if he just added them a couple of days ago, it isn't to 70 yet. I tend to believe his CYA reading. Probably just not done shocking.
Hey, 6.5,
Welcome to the forum.
One of the ideas when you shock your pool is to suddenly increase your FC to a very high ppm. Pucks will not be able to do that as they increase FC too slowly.
There is an article in Pool School that will help you shock the pool properly and that will likely cure your cloudiness issues.
Your shocking process is ended when....
1. Your pool water is sparkling
2. Your CC's are .5ppm or less
3. You can hold your FC overnight without losing more than 1ppm.
Until then, you need to maintain your FC at the recommended shock value.
Welcome to the forum.
One of the ideas when you shock your pool is to suddenly increase your FC to a very high ppm. Pucks will not be able to do that as they increase FC too slowly.
There is an article in Pool School that will help you shock the pool properly and that will likely cure your cloudiness issues.
Your shocking process is ended when....
1. Your pool water is sparkling
2. Your CC's are .5ppm or less
3. You can hold your FC overnight without losing more than 1ppm.
Until then, you need to maintain your FC at the recommended shock value.
You should look for the point where the black dot has completely disappeared, rather than just started to disappear.6.5Swede said:
http://www.taylortechnologies.com/Chemi ... ntentID=44
--paulr
Do you mean that you raised FC>15 and let it dwindle then did it again? Or did you keep it at 15 for several days until it held, but had to repeat it? Or did you just raise it >15 for two days in a row?6.5Swede said:
The answer to those questions will probably answer yours.
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