Going to attempt to convert to salt water!

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LOL..I agree with richard...once you put one bag in you got a saltwater pool...I actually have a SWCG from Australia..and they call for 5500ppm for their cells. I actually called the company yesterday, to see if I could get by with 3200 like all U.S. cells. THey said NO..it must be 5500ppm...I said, that seems like an awful lot..they could tell I was worried. They said..let's look at it this way. a pool using 3200 ppm is 0.032 percent in the pol water, and a pool with 5500 ppm is just .055 ppm...a very minimal amount more.

So looking at it that way, it really doesn't seem like a whole lot of salt no matter how you look at it. :)

Dan
 
tim...as FPM stated, give us some details on that sand filter...IMHO, there is not that much difference between a 3/4 and 1/2 pump....anything is possible but if the pump is pumping...keep it

Also, if you look at my sig, you will see I am running a 0.5hp inground type pump from pentair...ran me about $200
 
The filter is just a little taller then knee high and about 20" across at the widest point. He said the pump is to larger for the filter because it causes the water to move to quickly through the filter system. He also told me I needed to get a 1/2hp motor to slow the water flow so the filter can do its job.
 
That is a very small filter. If it were me, I would get a larger filter first and then think about the smaller pump later. It is always better to have a filter that is larger than what you really need.

A smaller pump will save electricity, but at some point as you go smaller it stops vacuuming very well. Unless your electrical rates are very high, the electrical savings is unlikely to be enough to justify the cost of the new pump. If you do want a new pump, another way to approach the smaller pump issue is to get a two speed pump. A two speed pump on low speed is about 1/8 the HP that it is on high speed, and then you still have high speed for vacuuming in case you need it.
 
I just went out and took all the data from the pump that I can read, the hp is not ledigible. I have a Hayward Power-Flo LX Pump, model Sp1515-Z-ES, part # 7-193391-02, serial # BX 10-07, FR R484, Type SP SP 1.00, Code H RPM 3450.......... I was told it is a 3/4 hp but I almost believe it is a 1.5 hp. I have not been able to find any information on the Hayward website. Does anyone know for sure what the actual hp is on this pump? Thanks for the help. Going to get the water tested again today around noon est, and see where the levels stand now.
 
So what do you recommend? 1/2 or 3/4? I guess the guy was right saying it was to large but he thought it was a 3/4hp, I guess I will talk to the pool store and see what is availible there. Does anyone have a 3/4 or 1/2 hp that they might want to get rid of? Let me know I need to do something to get this pool right. Thanks Jason
 

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Ok I am still learning all things BBB but I have learned quite a few thins over the last year (we did not close for the winter) about SWGs. First buy the test strips for salt when you buy the salt, they are the most accurate for testing salt. The stores here either use titrates or the digital probe thing and both stores here will give me drasticly different results. The strips are pretty close to what the SWG says. Also putting your numbers into the pool calc says you need 181 lbs which is aprox. 4.5- 40lb bags, if you put in a full 5 bags it would give you about 3100ppm. Also the stores here ALWAYS try to sell me way too many bags, if I did what they said I would have way too much salt! And also you will have to keep the CYA up or the SWG will have to work overtime to keep CL in the pool. I recomend you play with The Pool Calculator and read everything here you can find on SWGs and also look @ the manufacturers website for a manual, we found ours there.
 
Well yesterday I made my first run to the pool store to get the water tested. The lady said the salt level was very close, I think within 30lbs. or so. Then she recommended all kinds of things to get the rest of the readings correct. I told her I wanted to get the salt level right first and then address the other levels, I hope that was the rigth move. I intend to attempt to follow everyone heres lead and do the BBB method, and use the Pool Calculator. I should get the slat checked again today and will post the results they give me once the salt is correct. Again thanks for all the help in doing this conversion to salt water
 
Well I thought I might as well post yesterdays water results from the pool company.
Saturation Index -0.9
TDS 3000
CYA 34
Tot Chl 0.3
Free Chl 0
pH 7
Tot Alk 107
Adj Tot Alk 97
Tot Hardness 142
Salt 2100
 
You need to get some liquid chlorine in there to raise your FC up to the "Target" to keep you above the "min" for your CYA level - and you need to do that ASAP.
Aside from the salt, your other numbers are fine and do not need any adjusting right now.
 
Also I have a SWG that requires 5500ppm (from Australia also) of salt and I had no problems for the past 3 years. This is the first year I had to add 5 more bags of salt due to my whole backyard flooding into the pool during few bad winter storms this year.
 

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