need help with new filter install

Jump to latest Follow Reply
H

heyitsme06

0
Mar 24, 2010
61
Dallas, TX
I am planning to install a new de filter as our current filter is broken and I believe is the original 1985 filter when the pool was built. I have worked with pvc before but I am not sure if the pvc supplies from home depot are adequate for pool plumbing. I also am not sure what does what in my system. I believe I have 1.5 in pipe can I upgrade/do u recommend I upgrade to 2 inch?
IMG00187-20100422-1730.jpg

My pump is also leaking from the "out" side and idk if its something that can be fixed or will the pump have to be replaced.
IMG00190-20100422-1731.jpg

IMG00191-20100422-1731.jpg


The pump is a American Products American Eagle 1.5HP pump and my pool is 18x33 free form with 3ft shallow end and 8.5ft deep end.

the filter I just bought is a pentair fns plus 48 DE filter.
IMG00194-20100422-1733.jpg


I still need to buy the push pull backwash valve and jandy 3 way valves?

what else would I need for the install...

thanks in advance guys
 
The sched 40 PVC at HD/Lowe's is fine. Most of us would not recommend you get the dwv PVC found there as it is a little thin and does not have a specific pressure rating.


are you installing a new multi-port valve?
 
Dave hinted at it but I'll just come out and say it. I recommend getting a multiport valve instead of a push-pull valve.

Since you have an inground pool I'm not sure it's worth the time or trouble to try to and enlarge the piping. All the pipe underground is likely 1½" and unless you want to replace it, it probably won't help much to increase the size above the ground. Of course it won't hurt anything if you do just don't expect to see a big difference.
 
I originally wanted to get a Multi port but I have been told that they are just more trouble and harder to fix if anything went wrong with it. Besides Do I really need all those features? I just really need 2 settings right?

also, what are unionized fittings? and is just cut, clean, prime and then cement for the piping? it looks like the connections have a type of silicone/glue fill.

thanks
 
The problem is that if you ever do need those other settings they're not available on a slide valve. And you never know when you might need them. For instance, if something dumped a lot of crud in your pool you can vacuum to waste with a multiport, It also has a closed position for when you need it, and then there's the winterize setting.

I don't think they'd be harder to fix and I can't imagine anything being less trouble then pressing down a lever and turning. To me pulling and pushing a handle would be about the same.
 
Just my 2 cents but I would opt for a multiport valve as well. The ability to vacuum to waste is a wonderful thing. It means nothing when you don't need it and it means everything when you do.

Multiport valves are also easily maintained and parts that might become worn or damaged can be replaced rather easily. I'll take a valve that I can maintain any day over one that must simply be cut and replaced.

Please understand that we aren't here to profit from our advice. There are simply lots of folks here who have learned from their pool equipment issues over the years and want to assist others in making sure that their systems are as trouble free as can be. :-D
 
thanks, for the replies guys.

I am here to learn and I have seen different opinions about the multiport valve. If thats what u guys recommend then I guess I need to listen. :goodjob:

anyway looking at my system, should I just plumb it pretty much the same? When are check valves used? should I install ball valves before the pump and after the filter? Ive seen this on a couple of other members photos of their equipment.
 
1.gif

Circled in red that is for a pressure cleaner correct? the house didnt come with a pressure cleaner, we have a suction, the hayward navigator...should I leave that out of the new plumbing configuration and cap it off? or should go ahead and plumb it just in case I ever get a pressure cleaner(doubtful at $800 :shock: ) and shouldnt that be plumbed after the filter?

Circled in blue what is this for? can I get rid of this in the new plumbing?

Circled in green One line is a return for the pool right? what is the other one for? or are they both return lines? we have 3 returns in the pool...

Can someone help me figure out what valves I need?

Still learning here,

Thanks
 
The red circled thing is a special mini-filter for a pressure side cleaner. You get better pressure by not running through the main filter. Keep in mind that it won't be enough pressure for a cleaner designed to be used with a booster pump.

It looks like you have three return lines to the pool. One is for the pressure side cleaner, and two others circled in green. By adjusting the three way valve right before the green circled returns and running the pump you can figure out which one goes to which return.

It is difficult to see the blue circled thing in this photo. It might be a drain or a temperature sensor port or an out of line chlorinator port or any of several other things.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
That looks like a drain with a garden hose style spigot on it. You can use that to drain water out of the pool when the pump is running. Those are fairly common on cartridge filter setups.

With a DE filter, your main valve is going to have a backwash/waste port which serves the same general purpose at a higher flow rate, so there is no need for the garden hose spigot.
 
You shouldn't need any check valves. They are usually used when there is a spa, or occasionally when the equipment pad is several feet above the pool.

Ball valves can be nice to have once in a while, but I don't see a lot of point in them given that you keep the three way valves setup the way they are now. One time you definitely need ball valves is if the equipment pad is lower than the pool. They are also nice when you don't have the three way valves, so you can control where the water goes, but the three way valves are better for that.
 
Are you planning to replumb everything, including the pump?

If so, then I'd suggest plumbing in unions on the suction and discharge of the pump and the outlet of the filter.
If you're going back with the 3-way valves I wouldn't worry about adding ball valves.

The easiest replumb would be to just cut the old filter out and install the new one. Those 3-way valves should be dual sized valves, i.e. inside the cuff should be for 1½" pipe and outside the cuff should be for 2" pipe. You could cut the pipe on the inlet and outlet of the old filter right against the 3-way valves and replumb the new filter with 2" pipe from there. I'd still install unions though.
 
Bama Rambler said:
If so, then I'd suggest plumbing in unions on the suction and discharge of the pump and the outlet of the filter.
Click to expand...

yea I want to pour a new concrete pad and re plumb everything. what are unions? can you show me an example?

Bama Rambler said:
The easiest replumb would be to just cut the old filter out and install the new one. Those 3-way valves should be dual sized valves, i.e. inside the cuff should be for 1½" pipe and outside the cuff should be for 2" pipe. You could cut the pipe on the inlet and outlet of the old filter right against the 3-way valves and replumb the new filter with 2" pipe from there. I'd still install unions though.
Click to expand...

Can I re use the jandy valves? I was planning on buying new never lube jandy valves. if so the that could save me some money.

also, when installing the new filter, is the backwash valve just threaded with teflon tape? no glue? same for the pressure gauge on top of filter?
 
after searching i found unions are used to remove without cutting but I dont get how they work...are they threaded? (couldnt find a pic)

what are the advantages of this on a permanent inground pool? what I read is these are used for ag pools that get taken apart during the winter...

Im in Dallas TX btw
 
They attach to the pipes by glued in slip joint and the big ring around the middle is threaded with an o-ring for a seal. Using unions makes maintenance and repair easier because you don't have to cut the piping to remove anything.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.
Top Bottom
Back
Jump to latest Follow Reply