Good lord another question from this guy - Blind Shocking

[StuartPool]

I am calling this Blind Shocking
I increased my chlorine level using the pool calculator. Shocked Just as it said.
Once done I realized that I dont have the kit to test Chlorine that high. duuuuhhh
Its been 4 hours of course the chlorine level is high. that was the goal
Cant test my fc tc or cc so its blind

The water looks much better now. It had a slight green brown tint. That is better. Its clear as a bell.
Now though the ph isl above 8.0 high as the kit goes.

I know from reading that the fc will throw off the ph test.

Should I test TA is that a good measure to check if ph is correct?

I have seen several post about adjusting ph after shock. Have looked at the pool school, nothing seems to actually fit correctly so far.

Should I add MA at this time or wait. Prior to adding the chlorine (liquid) the ph was 7.6
I had a cya of 60 to 70 will that cause the liquid chlorine to hold longer?
What do you think?

 

[JohnT]

Don't worry about your pH until the chlorine comes back down.

 

[StuartPool]

Thank you John.

 

[duraleigh]

High FC causes your pH to falsely test high.

Do not add muriatic.

Testing TA is irrelevant.

You will have to wait until your FC comes down before your pH will test accurately but not to worry....you haven't changed it appreciably.

Yes, the CYA will help your chlorine last much longer.

 

[Richard320]

I am calling this Blind Shocking
I increased my chlorine level using the pool calculator. Shocked Just as it said.
Once done I realized that I dont have the kit to test Chlorine that high. duuuuhhh
Its been 4 hours of course the chlorine level is high. that was the goal
Cant test my fc tc or cc so its blind

Sure you can. Dilute the sample. I use the graduated cylinder for TA and mix pool water with some purified water that has no Chlorine. 3:1 or 4:1 or even 5:1 depending on where you think it will be. It won't be totally accurate, but it's something. Try twoThat's what I did until my TF100 arrived. I was generally accurate within 1.0 ppm. Try different dilutions to check yourself.

The water looks much better now. It had a slight green brown tint. That is better. Its clear as a bell.
Now though the ph isl above 8.0 high as the kit goes.

I know from reading that the fc will throw off the ph test.

Should I test TA is that a good measure to check if ph is correct?

I have seen several post about adjusting ph after shock. Have looked at the pool school, nothing seems to actually fit correctly so far.

Should I add MA at this time or wait. Prior to adding the chlorine (liquid) the ph was 7.6
I had a cya of 60 to 70 will that cause the liquid chlorine to hold longer?
What do you think?

Let CL come down before you worry about the rest. It will just drive you crazy otherwise. Your TA test will be blue>yellow instead of green>red for starters....

Let it clean up then get the rest in line.

 

[duraleigh]

I was generally accurate within 1.0 ppm.

Richard, are you talking about the OTO chlorine test???

If so, the accuracy of that test is hardly +- 1ppm when the pool water is full strength. Diluting the pool water even 50-50 would make the testing error double that. 2:1 would be three times that.

If you are speaking of the OTO, I have used it diluted at 50-50 and found the result barely reasonable but almost worthless to use for the shock process for anything over 1:1.

 

[StuartPool]

I have ordered the reagents to test. So this will be a mood point for me soon. Good info for later though

Have to make a go of it this time, but will hope

I have tried the dilution way.
It came in fairly close to what the desired result of 18 was supposed to be for FC cya was 60
I still had to guess, because of the test bullet that I have only goes up to 5 and most accurate guess would be just over 15 because I can match the shades in increments of 5 by dilution of 33%
So I know I am over 15, and by the color of the dilute sample I would say I am not higher than 18 but its a guess.

I cannot check TC and figure the CC as I can only hope the starting number is correct. I dont want to make a guess on adjustments

Best I suppose it to wait for the levels to drop.
Then I am going to shoot for 8 as my base number, until the cya drops. <Does that sound correct?

Once Stable, I will need to up the CH level. What do you reccomend to do this. Leslies sells calcium in a bucket but its going to be probably around 10 to 15 lbs. That looking around 50 bucks from them I think.

Anyway thanks again eveyone.

 

[StuartPool]

Side question
Can I add Calcium to the water with a high Chlorine level?
I want to get it back in range as well.
Thanks

 

[JasonLion]

I would wait to add calcium till you are done shocking. While shocking the PH can swing around a bit. That can cause problems if it happens while you are adding calcium.

 

[StuartPool]

Thanks Jason
The water is looking great at this time compared to 3 days ago.
Still missing that extra clean sparkle. Not sure why but when the CH level is correct and just at mid range it would sparkle well.
I lost the sparkle this winter as the cya levels went up and the FC had to rise. I think it was because I was not really getting rid of the alge in the water just keeping it in check.

Still alot to learn.