Can you check my figures B4 I dump it in

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StuartPool

0
In The Industry
Apr 20, 2010
61
New Test Results after everything.

ph 7.6
FC <0.5
TC 0.5
CC 0
TA 120
CH 210
CYA 60
Phosphates 300

Do I want to Shock. The Pool Calculator says aim for 18 if shock
Otherwise keep between 5 and 9. With bleach should I error on the low side at 5 or go to 9

As advised I will deal with the CH once Chlorine and ph are stable.

Any help is much appreciated
Thanks
 
StuartPool said:
New Test Results after everything.

ph 7.6
FC <0.5
TC 0.5
CC 0
TA 120
CH 210
CYA 60
Phosphates 300

Do I want to Shock. The Pool Calculator says aim for 18 if shock
Otherwise keep between 5 and 9. With bleach should I error on the low side at 5 or go to 9

As advised I will deal with the CH once Chlorine and ph are stable.

Any help is much appreciated
Thanks
Click to expand...


You want to first look at the chlorine to CYA chart in pool school. If your CYA is 60 and you need to shock, it would be more like 24. However since your CCs are zero...If you are using a FASDPD test you should n't need to...How did you come up with the 0ppm for CCs. Right now it just looks like you have to get your normal level up to the recommendations in the Chlorine CYA chart.

You also want to let us know about your pool, your filter and your pump and other equipment...Do you have a SWG how many gallons is your pool and etc.
 
cubbybeave08 said:
StuartPool said:
New Test Results after everything.

ph 7.6
FC <0.5
TC 0.5
CC 0
TA 120
CH 210
CYA 60
Phosphates 300

Do I want to Shock. The Pool Calculator says aim for 18 if shock
Otherwise keep between 5 and 9. With bleach should I error on the low side at 5 or go to 9

As advised I will deal with the CH once Chlorine and ph are stable.

Any help is much appreciated
Thanks
Click to expand...


You want to first look at the chlorine to CYA chart in pool school. If your CYA is 60 and you need to shock, it would be more like 24. However since your CCs are zero...If you are using a FASDPD test you should n't need to...How did you come up with the 0ppm for CCs. Right now it just looks like you have to get your normal level up to the recommendations in the Chlorine CYA chart.

You also want to let us know about your pool, your filter and your pump and other equipment...Do you have a SWG how many gallons is your pool and etc.
Click to expand...


You want it to be in a range of 5-7 ppm at 60 CYA...did you test or did pool store test for you.
 
I did the testing.
Checked it twice.
FC I recorded as 0 because the color was more faint than the minimal 0.5 on the 2006 kit. I suppose 0 is not actually true. But less than 0.5
I figure CC as TC-FC or was it the other way around. Its written down. lol

I have a 15,500 gallon pool
Solar Panels up a rise to the roof
auto cleaner running on the main pipe line
1.5 hp pump
Hayward C900 filter pump
Concrete with diamond brite surface
skimmer and lower drain and 1 intake for auto vaccuum

My cya was well above 100 had to drain and fill 3 times to get it to 60. 2/3 2/3 then 1/2 volume of pool
I made a mistake and used pucks and powder - NEVER AGAIN

These numbers are after the fills without any chemicals added. 2 hours circulating the water

Right now the water is clear and you can see well to the bottom although I think it looks just a very slight brown green. It dosent sparlke. No alge present on the sides.

The filter is clean at this time. I have rinsed and cleansed 3 times this week during the drain and refills

The pool store says I need to shock it every week raising the level to 15 then let if fall and do it all again. They also wanted to sell me Calcium to add, I said not at this time.

So here I am I am leaning on a shock as the water isnt as fresh looking as it should be. I did not test it for metals but being greenish brown I would think its alge in the water?
Oh yes they did also want me to buy some metal out, again I said no untill I know what I am dealing with.

Thanks everyone hope this helps you help me :)
 
So I have gone with safety
I decided that I would shock the pool first since I am not really sure how well the pool was being cleaned during the time the cya was so high.

Calculator says use 2 gallons 3 quarts of 10% that should raise it to 18

I have added 1.5 gallons and will recheck levels in 1 hour and add more as needed.
Hopefully soon I will know how the pool is going to respond to the new chemicals.

Now I have an issue. The taylor kit only goes up to 5 on chlorine test. Is it accurate to dilute with sterile water to get a guess on the level?
 
StuartPool said:
I did the testing.
Checked it twice.
FC I recorded as 0 because the color was more faint than the minimal 0.5 on the 2006 kit. I suppose 0 is not actually true. But less than 0.5
I figure CC as TC-FC or was it the other way around. Its written down. lol

I have a 15,500 gallon pool
Solar Panels up a rise to the roof
auto cleaner running on the main pipe line
1.5 hp pump
Hayward C900 filter pump
Concrete with diamond brite surface
skimmer and lower drain and 1 intake for auto vaccuum

My cya was well above 100 had to drain and fill 3 times to get it to 60. 2/3 2/3 then 1/2 volume of pool
I made a mistake and used pucks and powder - NEVER AGAIN

These numbers are after the fills without any chemicals added. 2 hours circulating the water

Right now the water is clear and you can see well to the bottom although I think it looks just a very slight brown green. It dosent sparlke. No alge present on the sides.

The filter is clean at this time. I have rinsed and cleansed 3 times this week during the drain and refills

The pool store says I need to shock it every week raising the level to 15 then let if fall and do it all again. They also wanted to sell me Calcium to add, I said not at this time.

So here I am I am leaning on a shock as the water isnt as fresh looking as it should be. I did not test it for metals but being greenish brown I would think its alge in the water?
Oh yes they did also want me to buy some metal out, again I said no untill I know what I am dealing with.

Thanks everyone hope this helps you help me :)
Click to expand...

If you have just done a refill, I would just get the chlorine(FC) up to your normal range...5-7 for CYA of 60...At this point I would see if it holds...You could go to 10 FC if you wanted...If it holds and your CC is less than .5 than you are good to go.

Regarding the pool store...If you keep up on your pool and test daily and add chlorine daily takes about 5 minutes each day...you shouldn't have to shock at all. I didn't shock last year except for after heavy rains, before I went on vacation and when I closed. Normal range for me was to keep FC between 5-7...In August when it was in the 90s ran my FC a little higher like 7-9 ppm. Read the pool school here and be able to avoid the pool store...the advice you get here is invaluable and it is not based on getting you to buy product you don't need.
 
StuartPool said:
So I have gone with safety
I decided that I would shock the pool first since I am not really sure how well the pool was being cleaned during the time the cya was so high.

Calculator says use 2 gallons 3 quarts of 10% that should raise it to 18

I have added 1.5 gallons and will recheck levels in 1 hour and add more as needed.
Hopefully soon I will know how the pool is going to respond to the new chemicals.

Now I have an issue. The taylor kit only goes up to 5 on chlorine test. Is it accurate to dilute with sterile water to get a guess on the level?
Click to expand...


That is why you need the FAS DPD test...so you can know exactly what your pool's FC level is. You can do a dilution but it is not as accurate and is just a guestimation for the most part...Not as accurate as the FAS DPD test.
 

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The FAS-DPD test uses a powder that turns the sample pink. You then add drops till the sample goes clear. It measures FC and CC by 0.5s up to 50. This test is in the Taylor K-2006 kit (and the TF-100).

The DPD test uses drops that turn the sample various shades of red, which is then compared to a color chart. It measures FC and TC up to 5. This test is in the Taylor K-2005 kit.

The OTO test uses drops that turn the sample various shades of yellow, which is then compared to a color chart. It measures TC up to 5. This test is in the Taylor K-100X series of kits.
 
Thank you I have the K2005 kit

Can I buy the reagents from taylor and complete the test in the large side of the water sample kit that came with the 2005 kit?

Here is what I found
http://www.aquasuperstore.com/products/ ... =474824173

Looks like I could use the 42 ml side of my tester to run this test, but I cannot be sure. Now I just need to know what reagents to get and to verify the amount of water sample needed

Anyone with this type of kit have any ideas on the reagent numbers used to do this test? and he amount of water needed
Tanks

I was born and raised in Indianapolis.
Winter made me come to Florida.
 
Melt In The Sun said:
You should get the FAS-DPD test from TFtestkits.net. That's what I did, after being in your exact situation.
Click to expand...

Ahh yes it is a good place.
http://tftestkits.net/FAS-DPD-Chlorine- ... t-p47.html
Is this what I need?

Looking at the refills I can find the dpd powder for 6.75 (R0870)
Titration reagent (R0871) for 7.25
I aleady have reagent R0003

Can you verify that I need to test 25 ml of water.
and how many scoops are put into the water of the powder
Do I start by using the R003 to get color then titrate R0871 until it goes clear. I
Is it 0.5 per drop? x number of drops? s(so at 18 I would be looking at 36 drops?)
 
The usual FAS-DPD test goes like this: 25 ml sample; add 1 heaping (or 2 level) scoops of powder, mix; titrate with R0871 to clear the pink, drop count x 0.5 = FC. Then 5 drops R-0003, if it turns pink then titrate again with R0871 to clear the pink, drop count x 0.5 = CC. See my sig for a link to fuller instructions.
--paulr
 
PaulR said:
The usual FAS-DPD test goes like this: 25 ml sample; add 1 heaping (or 2 level) scoops of powder, mix; titrate with R0871 to clear the pink, drop count x 0.5 = FC. Then 5 drops R-0003, if it turns pink then titrate again with R0871 to clear the pink, drop count x 0.5 = CC. See my sig for a link to fuller instructions.
--paulr
Click to expand...

10 ml sample.....x 0.5 :wink:
 
frustratedpoolmom said:
PaulR said:
The usual FAS-DPD test goes like this: 25 ml sample; add 1 heaping (or 2 level) scoops of powder, mix; titrate with R0871 to clear the pink, drop count x 0.5 = FC. Then 5 drops R-0003, if it turns pink then titrate again with R0871 to clear the pink, drop count x 0.5 = CC. See my sig for a link to fuller instructions.
--paulr
Click to expand...

10 ml sample.....x 0.5 :wink:
Click to expand...
Gah... that's, like, 3 times in 2 days I wrote something the opposite of what I meant. You are absolutely right.
--paulr
 
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