Things that make you go "hum"

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bbecky75

bbecky75

0
Apr 7, 2010
95
Jasper, Alabama
Hello Everyone, I have an interesting issue. Long story short, in November a huge wind storm blew off part of my cover. At that time I noticed low water level and found a leak in the liner. Got in (20degree water and thought I'd die) to repair the liner. Didn't work due to the temp. so I left the cover off to keep replacing water so I wouldn't have to replace the liner. So over the past couple of months the water turned from clear to dark brown (tea like) and had leaves from the top of the cover. I wanted to open up early to stop the growth of all things bad and that's when I had the strainer basket lid leak (problem solved). When I went out on Saturday to put on the new lid for the strainer housing, the water was clear but still had the decomposed leaves in the bottom. And when I say clear, I mean very clear as if it's been opened for the season. How did it clear itself up? There was no chemicals added since last season and the filter wasn't running due to the leaking lid.

So now I've had the filter running and added chemicals. I shocked the pool for about 1 day then let the shock level lower. Water still clear except at night in front of light you can see a foggy look to the water. Here are my test results from last night and again this morning but of course the water is still cold here. The temps have been 75-80 during the days and 45-50 at nights...

Last nights test:
Hardness 500
TC .5
FC .5
PH 12
TK 80
CYA 30

This mornings test:
TC .5
FC .5
PH 12
TK 90
CYA 30

Also, before finding this site, being a newbie I went to the pool supply stealers for chemicals and they sold me Calcium Increaser. If I understand correct from reading on this forum, I don't need it because I have a vinyle liner. Is that correct?

In advance, thanks to everyone for your help!!! :goodjob: :goodjob:
 
With a hardness of 500 you certainly don't need calcium increaser, regardless of the pool type! Take it back if you can.

Something else looks strange about your numbers. The pH, I don't believe it could possibly be 12. If it is, that explains why your water is so clear, nothing will live in that very long. How are you getting those numbers?

How much bleach did you add when you shocked?

If your FC is .5 you need to bring it up to about 4 for a CYA of 30.
 
Hello Bama Ramble, thanks for the quick reply....

With a hardness of 500 you certainly don't need calcium increaser, regardless of the pool type! Take it back if you can. Thanks, I'll return it because they sold me 4 containers with a grand total of $40.00 ( they had tested my water so don't understand why they sold this to me )

Something else looks strange about your numbers. The pH, I don't believe it could possibly be 12. If it is, that explains why your water is so clear, nothing will live in that very long. How are you getting those numbers? Purchased this home and pool a few months ago and there was a bottle of test strips so I've been using those.. But the color of the block for the PH was off the chart so I'm guessing at this.. But it was certainly higher than the chart read.

How much bleach did you add when you shocked? I bought the walmart brand (unscented) and I guess when I had gone everyone else had already stocked up so I got what was left. 2 each of the 1.5 gallons and 5 of the 3 liter bottles. The day I shocked (Sunday) I added the 2 1.5 gallons and then later on added 3 of the 3 liters. FC and TC were high for about 24 hours.

If your FC is .5 you need to bring it up to about 4 for a CYA of 30. Yes, I knew it should be higher but wanted some advise here before moving forward.
 
You need to get that pH in range! It can't possibly be 12, but is likely well above 8. You should use the pool calculator to determine how much acid you would need to get from the highest reading on your strip (probably eight-point-something) to 7.4. Add that much acid, retest, and repeat. It may take a few iterations, but that way you can be sure you don't overshoot it. Keep an eye on your TA too, since each acid addition will decrease it and change the amount of acid required for the pH change.
 
Something funny is going on...did you replace half your water to get the CH down? Was the water not circulating one or both times you sampled? Normally CH doesn't go down on its own, especially not that much that quickly.
 
Something funny is going on...did you replace half your water to get the CH down? Was the water not circulating one or both times you sampled? Normally CH doesn't go down on its own, especially not that much that quickly.

No replacement of water. The first test was last night before going to bed and the other test was this morning before work. Last nights water was definately warmer though because the temp was 78 yesterday and it dropped to 47 last night. Could that make the differenece?
 
Ok lets go ahead and beat you over the head about getting a good test kit! :hammer: Ok, kinda kidding, but you should consider getting one.

As Melt said, work on that pH first and while you're doing that add enough bleach to get you between 2 and 4 ppm FC.
 

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bbecky...my suggestion is at a minimum to get your water tested at the local pool store and post those results here...but second is to get a good test kit. The old test strip may just be "old" and are generally not accurate. The last thing you want to do is start tossing chemicals at the pool that may not be needed. You need dependable test results and post them up here.
 
Hello Everyone, thanks for all the good advice! yes, I do plan to purchase a new test kit and didn't realize the strips could go "bad" but after finding this site, I see that they aren't reliable. Wish I would have found this site before going to the pool supply because I spent $306. I know I'm a fool but won't happen again... Since I've opened most of what they sold me, I'll be using it all up then moving to the BBB method.. Can't wait to try it but can't seem to justify throwing out $306 worth of chemicals...

Now you can all bash me over the head... :hammer: :hammer: :hammer:


lololol.... I once was lost but now I'm found... I see light!!! :whoot: :party:

Thanks everyone, I'll post new results and pics soon!!!
 
$300 bucks. :shock: No wonder why people think pools are expensive.

Such a shame. :hammer:
 
You won't get bashed too bad cause most of us have been there. I got a brand new pool frog sitting on the "stuff to go on the trash trailer" pile with a never used mineral pak and bak pak. I also got an algaecide pak that's never been opened either. Thank goodness I found this place before I got in trouble.
 
Yea, $306 to be exact... grrrr!!! :rant: :rant:

So they sold me:

3" tabs
granular shock
calcium increaser
phos free
pool magic
PH reducer
Algecide
stablizer

I think that's all but would have to look at it all when I get home...

I work an 1.15 minutes from my home and get off at 5pm so when I get home after 6pm all 3 pool suppliers are closed. So I'll have to bring water with me to work tomorrow and go get it tested on my lunch break. There's a Leslie's here that can do the testing. Do you guys recommend any of their test kits? I looked at the ones listed in Butterfly's sig but can't send that much right now and don't wanna wait for it to come in before I get things taken care of... It's in the high 70's to low 80's here and I don't want things to get out of control because right now I have clear water. :lol:
 
bbecky75 said:
Wish I would have found this site before going to the pool supply because I spent $306. I know I'm a fool but won't happen again... Since I've opened most of what they sold me, I'll be using it all up then moving to the BBB method.. Can't wait to try it but can't seem to justify throwing out $306 worth of chemicals...
Click to expand...
Don't feel bad. At least you found this place early in your "career."

I spent my whole first season getting "pool stored" and spent several hundred dollars on chemicals also. I have receipts for over $500.00, just on chemicals. I know that I threw a number of receipts away, so the actual number is quite a bit higher than that. That doesn't count the cost of hardware and service calls. There are others here that were in that boat for years.

Everyone is giving you great advice, especially regarding the test kits. I have found a downside to a good test kit, though. I test my water a lot. I just can't seem to resist it. :mrgreen: (There are a few others around here that will admit to the same thing.)

BTW, glad to hear you got the leak taken care of.
 
Save your money for a good test kit. The only kit we'd recommend from Leslies is the FAS-DPD Service test kit and it costs more than the TF-100. And most of the time they don't stock it. They try and sell you the DPD kit but it's not the same and you wind up spending more buying the FAS-DPD to add to it.
 

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