Bad Flow Switch

tagprod

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Jul 3, 2007
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Tomball, Texas
The display on my aqualogic says no flow under diagnostic even though there obviously is flow. I'm guessing the flow sensor is bad. I'll order one, but is there any way to fix the flow sensor or is it not worth the trouble? I pulled it out and looked at it - nothing appeared wrong with it.
 
Is the magnet gone? If so replace it. All the flow switch is, is a micro reed switch encased inside of the center "stalk" that is activated by the magnet on the end of the "flapper." Make sure that the flapper is oriented correctly, so that the flow will push it onto the stalk. When the flow pushes it against the stalk, the magnetic pull will close the reed switch, completing the flow test circuit.
To test the micro switch, connect it to a meter or tester and see if it operates when you move a small magnet around/near it.
If you connect together the two wires from the control panel coming to the switch you have "jumpered" the switch in the circuit, and that should remove the error and allow the system to operate. Be aware that operating the system with out a working flow switch could cause an explosion if actual water flow ceases, hydrogen builds up in the piping and an ignition source occurs.
If the error does not go away with the switch jumpered, then you have a problem with the control board.
Good Luck, and Best Wishes!
 
If the wires back to the controller, and the controls check out OK, it may be the reed switch itself has changed its orientation inside of the "stalk." That is why I mentioned using a magnet while it is connected to a continuity tester.

Worst case you can make your own sensor for about $10, you'll need a little imagination, some epoxy, a small magnet, a flexible flapper, some wire, a pipe fitting and a reed switch -http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/product_info.php?products_id=8642

1. Install the pipe fitting into your flow T, make a mark on it to indicate flow direction, then remove it.
2. Attach wires to either end of reed switch to connect back to controls.
3. Mount the magnet on your flexible flapper arm
4. Epoxy the flapper arm and reed switch to the pipe fitting in such a manner that water flow in the direction marked on the fitting will push the magnet against the reed switch (see picture in the link above for one interpretation, the "stalk" can be eliminated if the arm has the magnet mounted on an extension such that it moves up to the switch when the arm moves over from flow.)
5. Test it to make sure it works.
6. Install it with the flow marks aligned and wire it up!
 
Considering the alternative to this home made flow switch is a hydrogen gas explosion, you're better off getting an original replacement.
First, a home made flow switch is not designed to ensure activate and deactivation within a designated range.
Second, if the flow paddle is not correctly in the flow path of the water, it will not operate properly.
Finally, the flow switch paddle (your flexible flapper arm) is usually stainless steel and sized to register the proper flow activation/deactivation points AND for longevity of ON/OFF cycles. Think of taking a thin metal piece and bending it back and forth repeatedly until it breaks.

It's not even my AutoPilot, but its just not worth skimping on this component.
 
Worst case

I envisioned more of a MacGyver fix, don't MacGruber it! The reed switch itself is almost failure proof, the wiring vs WeedEater, and connections vs corrosion are more likely culprits.
Perhaps a flow switch from another ECG could be rigged onto/into this system? Here is an Intex $13.33 switch -
http://www.intexstore.com/ProductDe...oryName=Automatic Saltwater System&parts=list
They must get a volume discount versus aqualogic.
Again, be safe!
Good Luck and best Wishes!
 
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