I have just installed our new 24' AGP, roughly 15,000 gallons. We filled it up over 2-3 days and while it is too cold to swim in it, I thought I would get the chemicals started. I have a floating puck dispenser right now with 3 3" pucks in there and nothing else. I know the FC is 0. Should I start with shocking the pool or what?
Just getting started with new AGP, what to do first
- Thread starter Jeff74
- Start date
Do you have a good test kit? That's the best place to start. 
Where did the fill water come from? (Well, city water, etc)
You need to add chlorine but you'll need to know where you are now in order to know how much you need to add.
You also need to get some CYA in there pretty quickly too. The pucks are adding some but not fast enough to really help at this point.
Post a full set of test results and we'll be able to help more.
Where did the fill water come from? (Well, city water, etc)
You need to add chlorine but you'll need to know where you are now in order to know how much you need to add.
You also need to get some CYA in there pretty quickly too. The pucks are adding some but not fast enough to really help at this point.
Post a full set of test results and we'll be able to help more.
I have city water. I dont have a good test kit now, but hope to get it soon. All I have now is the 3 way test strips. Here are my estimated numbers:
FC is 0
Alk is 60
PH is 7.4
FC is 0
Alk is 60
PH is 7.4
Till you get a good test kit we'll have to drive with blinders on a bit.
Go ahead and get 108oz (3-1/2 Quarts) bleach in there. Remember that until you get some CYA in it the sun will eat up your FC pretty fast.
Since we don't know how much CYA the pucks have added already let's shoot kinda low and add a quart of stabilizer (the granules not the liquid). We'll build up from there once you get a good test kit.
Go ahead and get 108oz (3-1/2 Quarts) bleach in there. Remember that until you get some CYA in it the sun will eat up your FC pretty fast.
Since we don't know how much CYA the pucks have added already let's shoot kinda low and add a quart of stabilizer (the granules not the liquid). We'll build up from there once you get a good test kit.
I was looking at this test kit for starters before I lay down $70 for the TF test kit:
http://www.amazon.com/Kem-Tek-450-5...1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1271784436&sr=8-1-fkmr0
http://www.amazon.com/Kem-Tek-450-5...1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1271784436&sr=8-1-fkmr0
Don't waste the money. Put that $12.00 toward a good kit. You won't regret getting a good one to start with. There are so many things that the 5-way kit won't test for that you really need to test.
Welcome to TFP!
Just a note on your gallonage...it's closer to 13.5k gallons than 15K...your actual water height is probably around 46-48" with a 52 inch wall height.
I second the TF100...the difference is night and day and you will feel in control of your pool water...the test you have listed can not accurately measure chlorine. Read pool school (over and over) and try to avoid those pucks (they are acidic and add CYA over time). Yes the test kit is a bit pricey, but you will pay for it in one season by avoiding having to buy pool store chemicals you just do not need. CYA is the only item that you will need that is manufactured specifcally for Pool use.
Just a note on your gallonage...it's closer to 13.5k gallons than 15K...your actual water height is probably around 46-48" with a 52 inch wall height.
I second the TF100...the difference is night and day and you will feel in control of your pool water...the test you have listed can not accurately measure chlorine. Read pool school (over and over) and try to avoid those pucks (they are acidic and add CYA over time). Yes the test kit is a bit pricey, but you will pay for it in one season by avoiding having to buy pool store chemicals you just do not need. CYA is the only item that you will need that is manufactured specifcally for Pool use.
How about the TF50? It doesnt test for PH, but the strips I already have do. Would the strips suffice for the PH or should I pay the extra $30 and get the TF100? Also, how long will the normal test kits last before getting refills?
How much does CYA normally run from a pool store or Walmart?
How much does CYA normally run from a pool store or Walmart?
Yes, the TF50 is better than nothing or a lesser kit, and you can probably manage with the test strips for PH by itself.
It will be cheaper at Walmart, but I'm not sure of the price $10-15 for 3/4 lbs? Can't recall at the moment.
It will be cheaper at Walmart, but I'm not sure of the price $10-15 for 3/4 lbs? Can't recall at the moment.
I haven't used the TF50 ( didn't know there was one, but hopefully someone familiar with it can chime in soon)
CYA (aka stabilizer/conditioner...look for cyanuric acid as the active ingredient) is roughly $12-15 (4lbs) at wally world or maybe a little more at the pool store.
Bleach/Chlorine - IMHO best value is again at wally's 196oz jug of Great Value unscented bleach is $2.54
PH+ = Borax
PH- = Muratic Acid
TA + = Baking Soda - store brand or Arm and Hammer is fine
http://www.poolcalculator.com is your best friend for figuring dosage requirements.
didn't know there was one, but hopefully someone familiar with it can chime in soon)CYA (aka stabilizer/conditioner...look for cyanuric acid as the active ingredient) is roughly $12-15 (4lbs) at wally world or maybe a little more at the pool store.
Bleach/Chlorine - IMHO best value is again at wally's 196oz jug of Great Value unscented bleach is $2.54
PH+ = Borax
PH- = Muratic Acid
TA + = Baking Soda - store brand or Arm and Hammer is fine
http://www.poolcalculator.com is your best friend for figuring dosage requirements.
3 tests for the CYA. The FAS-DPD test reagent R-0871 is also smaller than the 2 oz bottle in the larger TF100 kit but you can still do many tests with it- their website says about 40 with the TF50. This is of course assuming a clear, properly maintained pool. If you have to shock - the test reagents will run out quicker.