My pool was balanced as of last night, so tonight I thought I would start putting salt in the pool and set the Aqualogic. I have only put one 40lb bag in so far, and I decided to go ahead and display my salt level. My configuration menu was locked, so I unlocked it and enable the chlorinator, then changed the salt cell to to T-9 which is what I have, and I enable the salt display. I backed out and watched my screen. I immediately came up that the salt chorinator is at 50% and that the salt level is 2800 ppm. Can this be right? First, did I set it up correctly? Second, how is the salt already showing a level of 2800 ppm... Is it because I already had the chorine balanced with the bleach?
Am I starting my salt correctly with my Aqualogic P4?
- Thread starter edie_tn
- Start date
One bag is not going to add 2800 ppm of salt to a 14x28 pool. How deep is the pool ? An average depth of 4' would be a 12000 gallon pool. On most bags of swimming pool salt, they have a conversion chart for start-ups.
Most leave chlorinator off for 24 hours and pump running to circulate salt thru out entire pool.
Would lean to the low side of total bags. Removing salt will only happen by a leak, splash out, or carry out.
Hope this helps !
Most leave chlorinator off for 24 hours and pump running to circulate salt thru out entire pool.
Would lean to the low side of total bags. Removing salt will only happen by a leak, splash out, or carry out.
Hope this helps !
My pool is 13200 gallons. I bought 350 lbs of salt, which is what I should need to bring it to about 3200 ppm. This is initial salt for this pool. It was just installed in the fall and I have kept it balanced with bleach throughout the winter. So, are you saying that I should turn the chlorinator off and just keep the pool running for 24 hours before starting the chlorinator up? With this in mind... should I go ahead and put more salt in, (maybe another bag?) Then wait 24 hours before turning the chlorinator on? It won't display my salt level without the chorinator on... I just can't figure out why the reading is showing 2800 ppm..... when I have put hardly any salt in yet....
All pools have some salt, so you should always test the level before determining your dosage. I would suggest you get some salt test strips, or take it to the pool store and have them test the salt level.
So this is a 'newer' pool, built last fall? Could the pool builder have added salt?
So this is a 'newer' pool, built last fall? Could the pool builder have added salt?
Thanks for walking me through this. This is a new pool, finished early October, to the PB told me that we wouldn't start salt until spring.... I joked with him about forgetting me in the spring. Although I called, I have not heard back from him yet (although I believe if I pushed a little more, he would show up).... so I decided to do it myself. Can't be that hard, right? I just want to make sure I am following the manual correctly in setting it up.
I shut the chlorinator off and now my screen is showing "Chlorinator off", Check Salt level, salt level low".... so this makes more sense, right? But if I go back in and put chlorinator on, the salt PPM shows up and the number still shows 2800 ppm.
I am adding my salt slowly since my pool has no main drain and I am continuously brushing to make sure I don't see any sitting on the bottom. So far I have only added (2) 40lb bags. My filter has been on continuously since I started this process.
I shut the chlorinator off and now my screen is showing "Chlorinator off", Check Salt level, salt level low".... so this makes more sense, right? But if I go back in and put chlorinator on, the salt PPM shows up and the number still shows 2800 ppm.
I am adding my salt slowly since my pool has no main drain and I am continuously brushing to make sure I don't see any sitting on the bottom. So far I have only added (2) 40lb bags. My filter has been on continuously since I started this process.
I'm getting the feeling I am not setting this thing right. I went back into the configuration menu and "enabled" the chlorinator and the screen still shows that the chlorinator is off. The manual says to enable the clorinator at the configuration menu only if you have the AQL-CL chlorination kit, which I don't have... so should I be keeping this alone and on "disable"?
Does the normal chlorination of the salt generate from the % setting only... under the settings menu... and with this, would it be off if I have it at 0%, and on if I have it set at a percentage? If this is the case, if I am showing 60% chlorination, why is the screen saying my chlorinator is off?
Does the normal chlorination of the salt generate from the % setting only... under the settings menu... and with this, would it be off if I have it at 0%, and on if I have it set at a percentage? If this is the case, if I am showing 60% chlorination, why is the screen saying my chlorinator is off?
Excuse me for being so stupid.... I would have to have the chlorination kit if I have the cell, flow switches, etc.........
So, if the chlorinator is showing "enabled", I don't understand why the screen is showing that it is not on.....
So, if the chlorinator is showing "enabled", I don't understand why the screen is showing that it is not on.....
ok.... it shows chlorinator enabled under configuration menu.... screen is showing 60% chlorination, chlorinator off, salt level low, CSM error.... What is a CSM error....
Yeah.... I think I figured it out. I went back in and "disabled" the sensor (which I had previously "enabled" under the configuration menu) .... and now my screen shows... Chlorination at 60%. Salt level at 1800ppm. No longer shows chlorinator "off". And no longer shows csm error..... This makes more sense, right?
Well... I thought I had it figured out... I just went back out there and it shows chlorinator at 60%, chlorinator off, salt level low. No longer automatically shows the salt ppm..... So, I guess I "do" need the sensor to be on? But it seems like when the sensor is enabled, I get a CSM error and, I still can't figure out why it tells me chlorinator off when I have it enabled....
I'm gonna quit posting and wait on an answer.... "I guess I can really be this blonde!!!!"
I'm gonna quit posting and wait on an answer.... "I guess I can really be this blonde!!!!"
I know I said I wouldn't post again.... but I may be getting it...
ok, I "disabled" the sensor as it must be related to the "wizard" which detects all chemicals which I don't have & this was giving me the CSM error which has to do with "communication" related to the fact that I do not have that kit that detects all chemical levels, right?
With this, my screen is now coming up with Chlorination at 60%, 2400 ppm salt level, time, air & water temperature. Hopefully I won't go back out there and see the "chlorinator off" again.....
Let me know if I am on the right track...
Thanks.
ok, I "disabled" the sensor as it must be related to the "wizard" which detects all chemicals which I don't have & this was giving me the CSM error which has to do with "communication" related to the fact that I do not have that kit that detects all chemical levels, right?
With this, my screen is now coming up with Chlorination at 60%, 2400 ppm salt level, time, air & water temperature. Hopefully I won't go back out there and see the "chlorinator off" again.....
Let me know if I am on the right track...
Thanks.
It takes 24 hours for the salt reading to stabilize after any change. The unit may read too high, or too low, or swing around during the 24 hours after adding salt. After 24 hours it should settle down to a consistent number.
Thank you so much... Sorry for the load of posts, but I guess I was trying to figure this thing out... It is running the way it should, and I am keeping an eye on the salt level, as it is showing a bit high right now... although according to the salt bags and to my pool volume, I should be right on the money with the amount I put in... so maybe it will level off. Otherwise, I will use this opportunity to vacuum to waste since I need to get some oak pollen pods out of the deep end!!
My guess is once it is where it needs to be (3200 ppm, right?), then I need to just play with the Chlorination percentage until I determine a good fit for keeping it there?
My guess is once it is where it needs to be (3200 ppm, right?), then I need to just play with the Chlorination percentage until I determine a good fit for keeping it there?
The salt level and the percentage setting have nothing to do with each other.
The salt level is based on how much salt is in the water. If you backwash or have splash out or overflow you will lose water, and salt along with that water, so the salt level will drift down slowly through the season. The SWG will work as long as the salt level is in a fairly wide range. Normally you add salt to somewhere a bit above ideal and hope that by the end of the season it isn't too far below ideal.
The percentage setting controls how much chlorine the unit produces. You want to adjust the percentage until the FC level is where you want it to be. When adjusting the percentage, it is best to measure the FC level in the early evening, or at the same time of day each time if the early evening is not practical. If the FC level is higher than what you want you lower the percentage, if FC is too low you raise the percentage. Give everything two or three days to stabilize after each adjustment (unless it is way way off).
The salt level is based on how much salt is in the water. If you backwash or have splash out or overflow you will lose water, and salt along with that water, so the salt level will drift down slowly through the season. The SWG will work as long as the salt level is in a fairly wide range. Normally you add salt to somewhere a bit above ideal and hope that by the end of the season it isn't too far below ideal.
The percentage setting controls how much chlorine the unit produces. You want to adjust the percentage until the FC level is where you want it to be. When adjusting the percentage, it is best to measure the FC level in the early evening, or at the same time of day each time if the early evening is not practical. If the FC level is higher than what you want you lower the percentage, if FC is too low you raise the percentage. Give everything two or three days to stabilize after each adjustment (unless it is way way off).
Thank you for the explanation & yes, I now understand the chlorine percentage. I will do as you suggest on adjusting the percentage for now.