Problem with rainbow 320 clear

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patinsd said:
PoolGuyNJ said:
Pat,

In the picture with the 320, does the pipe closest to the wall feed or receive water from the 320?

Does the JVA in the same picture direct water to the pool or spa, depending on the mode? (Mode = Pool/Spa, Spa Fill/Drain) or is it feeding the solar?

Scott
Click to expand...

I just add a pic from the top .
So ,in the picture closest to the wall is the pipe who water from the 320 .
The JVA direct water to the pool or spa just like you said ,I do have another valve for the solar .
Thanks Scott and happy Easter
Click to expand...

I am glad you ask question ,thanks

What size and model pump do you have? Haward RS 1000 1hp
Are the panels 1.5 or 2" plumbing? 2"
Are there any other restrictions? From what I saw, everything appeared to be 2" above ground. 2" all over
How high are the panels? highest point is 28ft ,lowest 20ft
Are they all in parallel and on a single level? yes

When the company installed the solar system ,they check for the pressure and said it's OK and every thing worked fine until I switch chlorinator .
I am going to try tomorow what jasonlion asked me to do .
 
Very limited info on that pump because of it's age. As far as I can find, the RS-1000 was the predecessor to the Max-Flo. If this is correct and the delta between the two pumps is minimal, you're nearly dead headed when the solar is on. The Max-Flow is not exactly a high head pump. Additionally, your solar isn't getting a satisfactory flow either.

If someone knows more about this pump, it would be helpful.

Scott
 
Ok,
I did a test this morning.
I turn ON the pump for about 1 hour with solar valve in the OFF position ……
As usual, the pump prime immediately and the water run inside the 320 canister (canister is ¾ full).
Then, I activate the solar valve to ¾ OPEN (see picture) .water come slowly then usual from the solar, also at this position water do not flow anymore in the 320 canister and the canister is empty.
To end my test, I turn the solar valve back to OFF position ….wait about 10 minutes ,water do not run in the canister and canister in empty .
At that point I just stop turn OFF the pump for not more than 2 sec and turn ON again, and water flow again in the canister, level of water in the 320 canister is now little more than half full.
[attachment=1:d8acyda2]001.JPG[/attachment:d8acyda2]
I did a second test.
I turn ON the pump for about 1 hour with solar valve in the OFF position ……
As usual, the pump prime immediately and the water run inside the 320 canister (canister is ¾ full).
Then this time I activate the solar valve by little increment waiting 45 sec between each one until I see the water level in the canister change to ½ full,(see picture under,valve is little less open than the first test) also at that point the water running to the canister is low.
After running 5 minutes at this level, air is off the solar line, no more turbulence in the pipe and water canister is ½ full.
After running 20 minutes water is running again in the canister but with less pressure then the solar is OFF.
After 2 hours water in running in the canister normally.
To end my test I open completely the solar valve and no reaction on the canister level and water coming IN.
I turn the solar position to OFF again and water comes harder
 

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Given that you have a clear unit, that makes this a display model. I am beginning to think that the check valve built into the base is either missing or dried out.

To check it, disconnect the feed hose, remove the lock screw in the base that keeps the base and canister tightly on the mount and unscrew it. There you should find a small check valve. If it's not there or worn out, replace it. Since it was a Demo unit, it wouldn't surprise me if a tech had removed it for another customer at some point.

Scott
 
PoolGuyNJ said:
Given that you have a clear unit, that makes this a display model. I am beginning to think that the check valve built into the base is either missing or dried out.

To check it, disconnect the feed hose, remove the lock screw in the base that keeps the base and canister tightly on the mount and unscrew it. There you should find a small check valve. If it's not there or worn out, replace it. Since it was a Demo unit, it wouldn't surprise me if a tech had removed it for another customer at some point.

Scott
Click to expand...
Thanks Scott for your response .
I did not get the time to do it ,I will probably tonight and will tell what I see or not .
 
PoolGuyNJ said:
Given that you have a clear unit, that makes this a display model. I am beginning to think that the check valve built into the base is either missing or dried out.

To check it, disconnect the feed hose, remove the lock screw in the base that keeps the base and canister tightly on the mount and unscrew it. There you should find a small check valve. If it's not there or worn out, replace it. Since it was a Demo unit, it wouldn't surprise me if a tech had removed it for another customer at some point.

Scott
Click to expand...
Scott,
I do not think it's a display model ,I bought it on line and it was new when arrived .The 320 is available white or clear unit from what I understand .
As you said ,I removed the canister and I can see a check valve .
when I shack the canister ,I can ear a click from the check valve .
how can I see or tell when the check is damage ?
Thanks for your time .
Pat
 
patinsd said:
PoolGuyNJ said:
Given that you have a clear unit, that makes this a display model. I am beginning to think that the check valve built into the base is either missing or dried out.

To check it, disconnect the feed hose, remove the lock screw in the base that keeps the base and canister tightly on the mount and unscrew it. There you should find a small check valve. If it's not there or worn out, replace it. Since it was a Demo unit, it wouldn't surprise me if a tech had removed it for another customer at some point.

Scott
Click to expand...
Scott,
I do not think it's a display model ,I bought it on line and it was new when arrived .The 320 is available white or clear unit from what I understand .
As you said ,I removed the canister and I can see a check valve .
when I shack the canister ,I can ear a click from the check valve .
how can I see or tell when the check is damage ?
Thanks for your time .
Pat
Click to expand...

I still stuck with my problem :oops:
No body to help ?
 
The kit allows the control valve to be set to the upper mounting hole. This causes the fed water to wash over more tablets from the top down, increasing the dissolve rate and discharged flow's chlorine level.

The clean tubes are Demos, not normally for sale.

I still think this is a head loss/low flow issue.

Scott
 

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Thanks both Jason and Scott ,
I already use the long tube and water goes from the top .
on the instruction book ,I can see the kit as an option .
I have 2 option now .
Buy a new check valve and see if problem is resolve or buy the kit and place it in a place with more flow .
With what would you start ?
Just to remind you ,the problem is when I open the solar valve ,water is not running in the unit anymore but if I open the rainbow lid canister juste a bit ,water run again ,means I have pressure .Right ?
 
I am going to install the hi flow kit but I have a question .
in the decription to install they say IF POOL/SPA HAS A HEATER, INSTALL BETWEEN FILTER AND HEATER.IF
YOUR POOL/SPA HAS A SOLAR SYSTEM, INSTALL BEFORE SOLAR .
I have both ,where do I plug the tube ? This is the link for Hi flow kit .
http://www.pentairpool.com/pdfs/320Chlo ... der_UG.pdf

I did some test with regular hose going out just after the pump (I have a hose there to drain when the poll overflow)and I connected to the 320 canister and plug the tube from water coming from the unit and the system work fine that way ,no lost of pressure ,it's why I am going for the Hi flow kit .
Thank you
 
frustratedpoolmom said:
Hmmm. I always thought chlorinators should go after the heater-before the returns...
Click to expand...

You are right chlorinators go after the heater-before the returns but I am installing the Hi flow kit and mine is the last item before the pool .
you can see on the web site ,the picture of the hi flow kit and how to install it .
My question is where do I get the water from ,after the pump ,after the filter ,before the solar system ?
 
I would recommmend tapping into the piping after the filter but before anything else. I wouldn't want to pipe the tubing before the filter on the chance that something went through the pump that would clog the orifices of the chlorinator.
 
PoolGuyNJ said:
Given that you have a clear unit, that makes this a display model. I am beginning to think that the check valve built into the base is either missing or dried out.

To check it, disconnect the feed hose, remove the lock screw in the base that keeps the base and canister tightly on the mount and unscrew it. There you should find a small check valve. If it's not there or worn out, replace it. Since it was a Demo unit, it wouldn't surprise me if a tech had removed it for another customer at some point.

Scott
Click to expand...
It's not a display model, I sell these models all day.
 
PoolGuyNJ said:
The clean tubes are Demos, not normally for sale.

Scott
Click to expand...

The Pentair website clearly states that these models are available in white or clear plastic. I personally just installed a clear plastic model on my pool today and my local Pinch-a-penny has them for sale as well (not display models).
 

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