Converting a 2HP Hayward Super II down to a 3/4 horse model?

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denisbaldwin

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Mar 23, 2010
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With all of this talk about my pump being too powerful, tripping breakers, damaging my filter, not getting my pool clean, etc.etc., I'm seriously considering the move to a smaller motor.

I know Hayward makes a 3/4 HP version of the Super II. Can I just unbolt the 2HP motor and bolt on the 3/4 horse one? Any particular model of motor I'll need to use my existing impeller and housing?

I know I could just buy a whole new 3/4 pump and replumb it, but I was hoping to swap out just the motor if I can.
 
Motor, seal plate, seal set, impeller, diffuser and diffuser gasket gasket get swapped.

If you buy the pump, it's easiest to just split the motor section from the pump body. Swap the diffusers and bolt on the new motor section and add power. You won't touch the plumbing. Put the old motor on the new pump body.

Scott

Note to all: The use of 120V service and 2HP pumps and larger is not a good idea. The current flow is too high for the wire sizes that fit in the pump, creating a serious safety concern.
 
PoolGuyNJ said:
Note to all: The use of 120V service and 2HP pumps and larger is not a good idea. The current flow is too high for the wire sizes that fit in the pump, creating a serious safety concern.
Click to expand...

I agree that its not a good idea to run a large pump at 120v but why would a manufacture rate a motor for 120v if it was not safe to operate that way? I would assume that if they rated the motor for 120v, they would use the correct wire size.

Also, if the motor is still in good condition, another option is to just replace impeller and keep the motor you have. The motor will draw about the same current, maybe a touch more, as a 3/4 HP motor so you will get most of the energy savings but at a much lower cost. If you get the impeller with a seal kit, it is a very inexpensive way to downsize a pump.
 
I am sure there is a way to install a 2 HP motor than runs on 110 volts safely. That doesn't mean that it will be easy to install properly or that any given installer will install it properly.

2 HP pumps normally run on 230 volts because that reduces the power loss in the wiring. A 2 HP 110 volt pump needs to have a very low resistance, which means that the resistance of the wires becomes far more significant, and thus the power lost in the wire runs becomes far more significant than it is with a 230 volt motor.
 
You can't just change the impeller and seal set with this pump. The diffuser and seal plate need to go too. I think he's better off with the new pump and splitting it so he doesn't have to change the plumbing.

This is the 1st time I have ever heard of a 120V 2HP motor on a pool pump motor. 12 gauge wire is a PITA to get on the screw terminals cleanly.

Scott
 
A friend of mine has a 110V 1HP Hayward she's not using. She said she'd trade me even up for my 2HP model. This gives me a reason to re-plumb everything back down to 1.5" plumbing. Is this a good move? or should I just hold off for a 3/4 horse pump?
 
PoolGuyNJ said:
Going from 2" to 1.5" is reducing by half the amount of flow and speeding up the water's velocity. This has a negative impact and will increase energy usage. I wouldn't do that.

Scott
Click to expand...

The problem is the mish-mash of piping. I want to make this as efficient as possible.

The skimmer and main drain both have 1.25" pipes out of the ground going to a T, which then goes to a 1.5" pipe. Currently, this jumps to a 2" pipe and then the 2HP pump. I was going to replace this with a 1.5" pipe so it mates natively to the new 1HP pump, thus making a 1.25 to 1.5 conversion only.

From the current pump, I have 2" pipe going to a 2" inlet on the filter. I was going to go 1.5" out of the new pump and retain the 2" piping already in place, as it doesn't leak or have problems.

Exiting the filter is 2" pipe going to a 1.5" reducer then down to a 1.25" pipe for the return to the pool. I had planned on leaving all of this intact.

What should I change all of this piping to to get the most from my C12002 filter and my new 1HP pump?

Denis
 
The more pipe you replace with 2" the more efficient the system will be, but if there are only a couple of feet of pipe involved, the difference is so small as to not really matter. If the lines to and from the pool are currently 1.25", you will be just fine with 1.5" on the equipment pad.

Keep the plumbing as simple as possible and try to avoid extra 90 degree corners. The fewer fittings you use the better for efficiency, and there will be fewer places you might make a mistake during the install.
 

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1.25" plumbing is not something I have ever seen natively on an in-ground pool. Normally, this is found on above ground stuff only or if a line has been snaked inside a failed line.

The most efficient is replacing the lines with individual 2" lines. If your pool is a liner pool. the skimmer connection is normally a threaded 1.5" connection. If it's a gunite pool, this is usually encased in gunite and you can only get so close. Having individual lines and a valve to control them is more efficient and effective. It's a lot of work. You might want to hire a couple of young HS football players to do the digging.

Don't forget to plug the lines, bottom drain included before you disconnect anything or you will not be a happy camper :hammer: .

Scott
 
Sounds like I'm on the right track. I'll leave the 2" stuff in place that's currently in place, as it doesn't leak. I'll just re-plumb the in and out of the pump to 1.5", as that's the native for the pump and what seems easiest to do with the fewest conversions.
 
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