Foreclosure home pool with massive calcium buildup

We purchased a bank owned foreclosure (nightmare by the way) and it had a pool in the back. Because it was bank owned home we got no info on the pool, and from the looks of things I think the pool slowly evaporated all the way down until the last 2 feet because there is so much calcium on the entire pool, but the least is in the lower part of the "deep end".
To pass inspection the pool had to be refilled before we could close on the house, nothing was done to clean up the calcium beforehand and as this is a desert I don't really want to drain it to get rid of the calcium unless that's the only way.

Best I can tell the in ground pool is a prefab viking pool, which the website claims is "ceramic infused fiberglass". Based on the way it looks and the dimensions listed on various websites (not listed on viking website for some reason) the pool is about 10,500 gal. The bank was not required to do anything with the sanitation of the water so currently the chlorine levels are 0 for free and combined (I thought I'd test just to check). My dad owns a gunnite pool and at first told me to just dump loads of muriatic acid into the pool so that we could remove the calcium, but I mentioned it is ceramic and may be different than his gunnite pool so he told me instead to just test the water PH every day and add the recommended amount of acid every day and in about a week it would be dissolved.
I've been doing that for about 2 weeks now, and though there is a buildup of debris every morning on the floor of the pool, the whole pool is still coated in calcium. Every day the test says to put in the same amount. The PH is always very high (8.2 is the highest shown on the testing kit I have) and the total alkalinity is around 140 based on this testing kit. The instructions on the pool testing kit says to wait 24 hours in between acid demand tests and adding acid. I do not have a kit that tests calcium harness but the water here is very hard (stalagtites in the showers when we got the house).
Should I just continue adding acid slowly until the acid demand test doesn't require it anymore? Is there any other way to remove a heavy buildup of calcium? Also, there is not a lot of information on ceramic pools, and unfortunately the stores here that put them in don't care to assist if you aren't going in to buy a new one. We don't want to have it sand or bead blasted unless we know that wont damage it either, and most people in Vegas only know gunnite. Any advice is appreciated, we'd like to use our pool this summer if we can get this fixed, and possibly convert to salt if that is something that is possible with a ceramic pool.
 
Don't empty it. First, get it balanced and as clean as you can. Then drop the pH to about 6. Brush twice daily like it was a gunite pool until the calcium is dissolved or 1 week. Then rebalance it for a week. Keep brushing. It will take time. Repeat if needed but only go to 6.5 for any subsequent treatments.

Scott
 
Also, get one of the recommended test kits (I know, like you haven't spent enough money already :roll: :lol: )

test the calcium or have it tested by a pool store. If it's over 400, consider Reverse Osmosis to deal with the calcium issue.

http://www.azcentral.com/news/articles/2008/08/28/20080828biz-ecoklear0828.html

there have been recent threads about the RO treatment, if you use the Google search feature, bottom left corner, you can read about it.

If you decide to go that route do so before you spend time balancing the other parameters, but do it AFTER you get rid of the scale. :wink:
 
Thanks for the quick replies and advice, I'll get the pool cleaned up as you said to Scott and then see if I can get the water filtered so we can start fresh with this pool without wasting water. Great article, poolmom. And I definitely will get a better testing kit so I can monitor the pool water better and keep it maintained once we get it running right.
 
When you balance, target a pH of 7.2 to 7.3 to help keep the calcium in solution . I am willing to bet that the hardness level after dissolving the scale will be in excess of 350. Targeting a hardness of 150 after the RO treatment will give you the head room to deal with hard fill water and still keep the gel coat happy.

Scott
 
Also, load up your and your family's "patience bank". :cool: I've been filtering my pool, with new pump and new huge DE filter, for some time now to filter out loads of scale that I've been working on lifting from my plaster pool all winter. It didn't seem to be clearing for a week. Into the second week it hit a magic point and overnight changed dramatically for the good. It has been significantly better each day since then. It's still going to take some more time but is beginning to sparkle now. BTW.. my filter is 80 sq ft using cellulose. I backwashed after about 6 days in. The pressure on filter hadn't increased that much but the Intelliflo VF pump "wanted" me to backwash. :roll:

gg=alice
 
PoolGuyNJ said:
Don't empty it. First, get it balanced and as clean as you can. Then drop the pH to about 6. Brush twice daily like it was a gunite pool until the calcium is dissolved or 1 week. Then rebalance it for a week. Keep brushing. It will take time. Repeat if needed but only go to 6.5 for any subsequent treatments.

Scott

Is sequestrate needed?

gg=alice
 
If your tap water is that hard, I suggest you look into a solar cover soon to limit evaporation and minimize the amount of hard fill water you have to add. Hopefully someone in your climate will chime in with a recommendation of what sort would work best (I suspect it could over heat the water in AZ) or tell me I’m wrong.
 
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