New Pool Owner looking to Learn...Where to Start?

Mar 17, 2010
78
Hello everyone,
I'm a new User here, A new Home Owner, and A new Pool owner. I'm here to learn and get the help of some Pool Guru's like everyone here. Many questions will be asked I'm sure... I'm also a fish keeper so I'm somewhat familiar with testing and adjusting water parameters but not with a pool.

I've got a house in Wisconsin that came with a in ground pool. I'm basically a noob to this so I'll be looking for your help and guidance. The pool has not been opened for the last 2 years. I has had a cover on it and it is still pretty full. The water is obviously very dark and very smelly. I've yet to determine the size gallon wise because it's a strange shape. I've got to do some measuring and then I'll get back to everyone.

What i know about the pool: It's in-Ground and Cement. Deep end is roughly 8 feet and shallow is 3. The top edge is tiled. I've got a diving board. It's not been used in 2 years. Pump and filter look in good shape (Laser Jacuzzi 225 filter). Pool is unheated. Pool has been holding water

So obviously it's too early open just yet especially if it's unheated and spring maple whirlybirds haven't even started to grow. I just need to know where to start. Anyone have any links to read for super beginners?

I don't have any maintenance items...what should i get? I know I'll need to get a water test kit to see where the water before it's determined it needs to be drained or not. I'll need a net to clean up the Crud and start cleaning what I can.

Here are some photos of the pool last summer. So it's a little dirtier since then. As you can see, I've got some work to do.
spellman-82.jpg

12-18-09-3.jpg
 
Welcome to TFP! :wave:
Have you read Pool School yet? :wink:

I think you have a pretty good idea of where to start, you'll need one of the recommended kits, read about them in Pool School.

You'll need some equipment to start clearing out the gunk. Have you seen our Visual Encyclopedia?

Then you're going to need lots and lots of chlorine, if you can find a source for reasonably priced 12.5% you'll haul less jugs. Otherwise Wal-mart usually has the best price at $2.54 for 182 oz of 6%.

Chances are slim your water will have any CYA after sitting dormant for 2 years. So during part of the shock process you'll be able to use Dichlor as a way to quickly raise CYA, killing 2 birds, yada yada.

Edit: hit submit too soon. Once you get the filter operational, and start clearing the gunk, you can get the water circulated and do your testing. The water must be circulating for several hours before you do your first test. :wink:
 
Start reading The Pool School. The link is right on top of the home page here.

Order a test kit. Get the deluxe TF100, you'll need the large quantity reagents. Someone will post a link shortly, if they haven't beat me to it. Bookmark the pool calculator, you'll be using it a lot!

Figure out the size of the pool. Figure out what equipment you have, pump & filter-wise and see if they work. You can't really do anything unless the water is circulating. Also figure out what all the valves do and where they go so you get proper circulation. I was getting none in my main drain until I spent about ten bucks on a diverter thing - looks like a flying saucer.

You're gonna need a leaf net, a pole, at least one brush, a vacuum, and a hose. Also figure out where to connect the hose.

Then load up on Chlorine and muriatic acid.

GO!
 
Welcome to the forum :wave:

As you can see, you will get all the help you need here. After you read Pool School, post back any questions.

Your place will obviously be beautiful when cleaned up and I can't wait to see the transformation! :whoot:

Don't forget to have your camera ready.......we love pics and just can't get too many!
 
WOW thanks for all the quick responses. I'll start reading and purchase a few tools to get started. This is going to be a little daunting but hopefully sun will be enjoyed!

I'm also interested to see what it looks like. I'll be sure to take a bunch of photos!

The house was build by a Frank Lloyd Wright Apprentice...if you'd like to see more house photos I've got a blog with my details of work i'm doing. It's at http://www.usonianautomatic.com
 
Welcome! You've gotten great advice thus far!

We will need lots of pics before, during, and after! We also need cannonball pics too so don't forget! :mrgreen:

Can't wait to see it complete! :cool:
 
If that is a solid cover, you should get a pool cover pump, or setup a siphon, and get the water off the cover.

It is also possible that the cover is either mesh, or has a mesh panel somewhere. If so, instead of removing the water, you should slowly increase the tension on the straps so the cover pulls up above the pool water and the water on the cover drains down into the pool. Doing this will probably require repairing any of the straps that are no longer anchored down.
 

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Ok, I'm done with school although I'll be referring back often...

Jason,
The cover is solid but the water level is up to this level in the pool. I plan on removing all of the debris and then simply removing the cover as there is much more debris below the cover. So is draining the water off the cover really necessary this time? I understand if you've got a clean pool below. Now that the snow melted around the deck i spent time re-anchoring some straps and adjusting some. There is still a good amount of ice on the cover that should be completely melted soon.

My to do list:
Read, Read, Read
Figure out Equipment and specs
Figure out if what i have works...this will happen in April sometime.
Study my setup
Research vacuums
Research locations for chlorine and best prices


I'll plan on getting some tools to get started including:
TF100 XL
Equipment Pole
Leaf net
Brush
Vacuum eventually
Hose

anything I'm missing for now?
 
Getting the debris off the cover will be much simpler than getting it out of the pool once the cover is off. It isn't required, but you will save some work clearing the cover as I suggested. The water level doesn't matter very much as long as there aren't any holes in the cover. If there are holes in the cover, attempting to pump off the cover will pump out the entire pool instead.

For an anchored cover like that one, the water level on the cover and the water level in the pool will always be about the same as long as there is enough give in the anchors to let the pool water hold the weight of the cover over the winter (which is how it should be setup over the winter).
 
When you chop up the area into sections, you can use different depths appropriate to each section. I don't know what your floor looks like so I guessed average 7' for the top two sections, 4' for the transitional triangle, and 3' for the shallow end:
15x16x7x7.5=12600
15x16x7x7.5/2=6300
15x5x4x7.5/2=1125
15x16x3x7.5=5400
total=25,425

These estimates are more-or-less in the same ballpark so I guess I've confirmed that we all passed the basic arithmetic test. :) You can go with whatever volume you feel good about.

Another way to guesstimate your volume is a chemical test; add a known amount of something to the pool, and see whether it changes your levels in the way you expected. I can describe this in more detail if you like.
--paulr
 
Purchased my TF100 XL today! Hopefully temps will start to warm so that I can get the cover off and start cleaning and eventually see if my pump works...then I'll test the water to see what needs to happen.

Anyway here are more photos of the current state of the pool....

03-pool-1.jpg


03-pool-2.jpg


03-pool-3.jpg


03-pool-4.jpg


03-pool-5.jpg


03-pool-6.jpg


03-pool-7.jpg
 
wiscousonian said:
Purchased my TF100 XL today! Hopefully temps will start to warm so that I can get the cover off and start cleaning and eventually see if my pump works...then I'll test the water to see what needs to happen.

If I were in you position, I wouldn't pull the cover off until I knew the pump worked. You're asking for algae if you let sunlight and whatever the wind brings by into your pool without the ability to filter and mix the chlorine in.

You should also run the pump of several hours before you test the water. I just tested mine last week without mixing it up, got a scarily low CH reading but after I ran the pump for 2-3 hours the reading doubled.
 

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