BIC said:
How many feet of water are actually in your pool? I would like to see if the strips are accurate. I suspect that they are!
After 3 weeks.... corrosion!!!
- Thread starter BIC
- Start date
How many feet of water are actually in your pool? I would like to see if the strips are accurate. I suspect that they are!
waterbear said:BIC said:I used the Aquacheck strips. I put one in exactly one inch of water (I mesured it to make sure) and waited until the strip that goes across the top got dark (it took a bit more than 4 minutes). I read the number on the strips and matched it with the one on the bottle. It gave me 3470ppm. I was expecting to get around 2400 - 260ppm like the stores but it didn't go that way. I will retry another salt strip today.
I would trust your reading with the strips.
For the kit I will order the Taylor K-2006 or K-2006c. Judging by the picture, they seem to have good documentation. Based on the fact that I have never used a drop kit, I need very good documentation in order to do the test properly. The TF Kit doesn't seem to have a lot of documentation (judging by the picture on the Web site). The price different (K-2006 vs TF Kit) is not that big. I hope the drop kits are not to difficult to use
BIC
You will be amazed at how easy a drop based kit is to use. The TF testkit actually has better instructions for a beginner than the Taylor kits. The reagents and tests are identical except that the TF Testkit does not include the acid and base demand tests (They are a guidline at best and most people do not use them) and does include the Taylor K-1000 for daily chlorine and pH tests. All other tests are identical but the TF testkit includes more reagents for the CYA test (the Taylor kit only gives you enough for aobut 5 tests and then you need to buy refills of CYA reagent. I own both kits (and a few others) and I can tell you that the TF testkit is the one I usually break out when I need to test. It really is a better value for the money! Also, if you have any questions on the proper way to use it you can just post them in the forum. Taylor doesn't offer anything like that!
You have convince me. If they ship to Canada, I will go with the TF Kit 8)
waterbear said:
I just went outside to check with my mesuring tape (no kidding here). My AG pool wall is a 52" high. There is about 7 inches not filled with water. Also, as you probably know, in the middle it's a little bit deeper (I have a drain in the middle), I would say 3 inches deeper for about a 2 feet diameter. Generally speaking, I would say it's a normal 24' pool installation.
BIC
I keept looking around for info about my corrosion problem.
I just talked to a pool service manager (it's his job, he does the work himself and seems knowledgeable) and he told me that if I ground my pool it will help for the corrosion. He said that SWG makes electrolysis and that could cause rust if the pool is not grounded. When I told him that my pool was in resin (top and bottom tracks included), he said to ground it from the bolts that close the two ends of the metal walls.
I think it makes sens, I will call an electrician on Monday to do it. I will also change the rusty bolts (if I can find SS ones).
BIC
I just talked to a pool service manager (it's his job, he does the work himself and seems knowledgeable) and he told me that if I ground my pool it will help for the corrosion. He said that SWG makes electrolysis and that could cause rust if the pool is not grounded. When I told him that my pool was in resin (top and bottom tracks included), he said to ground it from the bolts that close the two ends of the metal walls.
I think it makes sens, I will call an electrician on Monday to do it. I will also change the rusty bolts (if I can find SS ones).
BIC
While electrolysis is possible and does sometimes cause metal corrosion it is fairly rare in practice. More significantly grounding the metal panel isn't going to prevent electrolysis and could cause shock hazards.
If your bolts are zinc plated, as most of us here believe, nothing other than replacing them is going to prevent them from corroding in your pool.
If your bolts are zinc plated, as most of us here believe, nothing other than replacing them is going to prevent them from corroding in your pool.
if it is truly electrolysis you could also use a zinc anode to stop that instead of having to ground every little screw.
BIC,
Have you checked those boltys with a magnet? It won't really tell you anything if a magnet sticks to the bolt as some types of stainless are still attracted to magnets. If a magnet won't stick to it though, you'll know you have stainless bolts.
Have you checked those boltys with a magnet? It won't really tell you anything if a magnet sticks to the bolt as some types of stainless are still attracted to magnets. If a magnet won't stick to it though, you'll know you have stainless bolts.
JasonLion said:
Hi Jason,
what I did few days ago is the following: I took a SS screw that I bought myself and put it in a panty hose
and attached it to my (now famous) ladder. The screw is SS (for sure) and has been there for few days now. I have not checked it yet, but I will. When I do, I will report here if the screw has any sign of rust, ... hoping it won't.I really really hope that most of you are right and that SS will not rust. I also hope that I won't have to change every single screw/bolt in my pool for SS ones. I mean, I hope that some of them are real SS.
Is anyone here having a SWG in an AG pool and have nothing (ladder, skimmer, etc.) rusted?
BIC
poolio said:
How do you install that?
KurtV said:
I pretty sure they are not SS.
BIC
waterbear,
I just ordered the TF kit 8)
I also replaced my 4 ladder bolts with SS ones.
I added stabilizer
I just ordered the TF kit 8)
I also replaced my 4 ladder bolts with SS ones.
I added stabilizer
BIC said:
waterbear,
What are your conclusion about the Aquacheck strip to test salt level? Do you think they are right for my pool? As said earlier I got a result of 3470 ppm?
BIC
Strannik said:
Not yet :-D, I looked this afternnon (only after 2 days) and they look good.
Also, as I said in a previous post, I took a SS screw that I bought myself and put it in a panty hose and attached it to my ladder. This one has been in the pool for a while. I will take a look soon to see how it goes.
BIC
DavidD
0
Bic,
I've been watching this thread with interest regarding your corrosion issues. As you have probably already figured out, you have been in excellent hands here. The advice and observations have been top notch. I am an avid sailor AND am in the Structural and Architectural Metals field. This being said, I know a little something about Stainless Steel, both on a professional and personal basis. As you have probably figured out by now, those bolts were not "marine grade" (Type 316/317) stainless steel and don't even appear to be stainless at all by the color. It is disappointing but not surprising that a manufacturer would supply those with a new pool. When I purchased my new home earlier this year, the ladder in the pool had rusted and corroded bolts (no salt) which I immediately replaced.
There are many types of Stainless steel within four basic families. The one thing they all have in common is a minim of around 10.5% chromium. Everything else can differ, depending on the intended use. In a swimming pool environment, whether it be a salt pool or not, you'd want a minimum of type 304, but preferably 316 and 317 would be even better. 304 & 316 are pretty common at most home improvement and hardware stores. The optimum types 316 & 317 will not be magnetic however sometimes 304 will show slight magnetic properties. One last tidbit is that they are very rarely marked unless they are 5/8" hex heads or above.
Dave
I've been watching this thread with interest regarding your corrosion issues. As you have probably already figured out, you have been in excellent hands here. The advice and observations have been top notch. I am an avid sailor AND am in the Structural and Architectural Metals field. This being said, I know a little something about Stainless Steel, both on a professional and personal basis. As you have probably figured out by now, those bolts were not "marine grade" (Type 316/317) stainless steel and don't even appear to be stainless at all by the color. It is disappointing but not surprising that a manufacturer would supply those with a new pool. When I purchased my new home earlier this year, the ladder in the pool had rusted and corroded bolts (no salt) which I immediately replaced.
There are many types of Stainless steel within four basic families. The one thing they all have in common is a minim of around 10.5% chromium. Everything else can differ, depending on the intended use. In a swimming pool environment, whether it be a salt pool or not, you'd want a minimum of type 304, but preferably 316 and 317 would be even better. 304 & 316 are pretty common at most home improvement and hardware stores. The optimum types 316 & 317 will not be magnetic however sometimes 304 will show slight magnetic properties. One last tidbit is that they are very rarely marked unless they are 5/8" hex heads or above.
Dave
Dave,
I agree with your statement on most counts, except for the stamping claim on the bolts. By FQA (Fastener Quality Act) and most recognized standards (ASTM, ASME), material is required to be marked accordingly (regardless of size). Bic, glad to hear you are working through the problem.
I agree with your statement on most counts, except for the stamping claim on the bolts. By FQA (Fastener Quality Act) and most recognized standards (ASTM, ASME), material is required to be marked accordingly (regardless of size). Bic, glad to hear you are working through the problem.
DavidD said:
Hi Dave,
Hi divnkd101,
First of all, thank to both of you for your help (info).
I would like to know something about SS (Stainless Steel). When a screw is said to be SS, is it only a layer protection (over the metal of the screw) or is it the entire screw (even inside) that is made of SS? I'm asking the question, because the screws that came with my kimmer are (base on the manual
) SS, however almost all skimmer screws seem to have a little, little bit of rust in the crack (where you put the screwdriver) and sometimes on the face of the screws. I was wondering if the SS protection get sometimes removed when the screws are installed (screw) with the screwdriver?If SS is just a layer (or cover) over the crews that would explain why you still get rust on some area of the crews. However, if the entire screws is SS (even inside) then I don't understand why the rust happens. I have seen that phenomenum (rust in only some parts of the screws) with other stuff I bougth and were including SS screws.
I hope my question is clear, english os not my mothertongue
BIC
BIC,
Questions I get asked every day.... Stainless Steel is a material, not a coating/ plating. As Dave mentioned before, there are various grades of Stainless. Furthermore, the lower grades of stainless (18-8SS, 304SS) actually contain a small amount of Cabon in the chemical makeup of the parts. Therefore, after time, some stainless will exhibit signs of rust.
Questions I get asked every day.... Stainless Steel is a material, not a coating/ plating. As Dave mentioned before, there are various grades of Stainless. Furthermore, the lower grades of stainless (18-8SS, 304SS) actually contain a small amount of Cabon in the chemical makeup of the parts. Therefore, after time, some stainless will exhibit signs of rust.
divnkd101 said:
So the reason why my skimmer screws already show a little (very little) bit of rust is probably because theiy are not 100% SS (not the highest grade). As you said maybe some Carbon got scratched when they screwed them.
Highly possible and probable. If you frequent the home improvement stores, shop for your fasteners in the specialty bolting drawers. You will most likely find the 316SS material Dave spoke of in a previous post. Good Luck