Held FC over night but it did not change color.

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BigBrownLog

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Jun 10, 2009
66
Louisiana
.............FC.....PH.....TA...CYA....Add
Noon........0.....7.5?....?....0.......2 lbs Cya
1700........0.....7.5?...70...25?....3 cups 4 oz cal-hypo 15ppm/1cup muratic acid
2200.....12.5.....?.......?....25?....1 cup 2 oz cal-hypo 15ppm
2230.....15.5.....?.......?....25?....4oz 4tbsp...switched to 18ppm
2300.....18.5.....?.......?....25?....nothing
2330.....18.5.....?.......?....25?....nothing

0900.....18.5.....?.......?....25?....nothing/backwash
1200.....18.5.....?.......?....25?....backwash/add water
1800.....15.0.....?.......?....25?....nothing I think the lower ch is because of me adding about 8"of water
Pool is still green. It didnt change grey or any other color.

0900.....12.5....7.2....60...25?....nothing/poll is half as green and can see bottom

0900.....12.0....7.2....70...??......nothing/pool is pretty much clear just have to vacuum up all the dead.
1500......8.5.....7.2....70...??.....nothing/vacuumed and i can see bottom very well.

1400......7.5.....7.0....70...??.....nothing/water is pretty clear except for the metal stains. :rant:
 
Just keep it up! :goodjob:

If your CYA is really 25 then you don't need an FC of quite that high. Around 11.5 ppm would be plenty. I see that you have a question mark next to the CYA reading so I'm guessing that you aren't totally certain on that value.

Just keep the FC at shock level, brush, backwash, test, and repeat until sparkly. Be patient. If you water is cold, it can take a little longer to clear it.
 
Algae will usually bleach out (turn gray/white) when it is dead, but it doesn't always do that. The most reliable way to determine if the algae is all dead is to do an overnight FC loss test. If I am reading your chart correctly, it looks like you already did that and didn't lose any FC overnight.

Assuming your filter is working correctly, the water should start clearing up as soon as the algae is dead. If you have a sand filter it can take several days to more than a week to completely clear the water, though you should see a visible improvement each day. With DE or cartridge the water should clear up much more quickly than that.
 
The question marks are because u cant get an acurate reading with so much turbity. So i assumed there was no cya from all the rain this winter. then i added a lil over 2 lbs of stabilizer and the 25ppm was a low estimate. And no where have i seen 11.5 for anything above 20ppm cya.

Thanks jason i didnt know it wasn't a hard and fast rule that it wouldnt change color and and yes what u read was correct.

noon update ch=18.5
 
BigBrownLog said:
The question marks are because u cant get an acurate reading with so much turbity. So i assumed there was no cya from all the rain this winter. then i added a lil over 2 lbs of stabilizer and the 25ppm was a low estimate. And no where have i seen 11.5 for anything above 20ppm cya.
Click to expand...

Oh, I see. Turbidity due to the water being green. Understand now.

See the chart in the link below to determine what your FC needs to be for a given CYA level. This is where that information is sourced.

pool-school/chlorine_cya_chart_shock
 
@ 257WbyMag - sory i dont know how i never saw that one. i always use bens' or chemgeeks' chart. but by that one i should be somewhere in the neighborhood of 18 anyway as long as i did my math right because the lowest cya is 60.

@ JasonLion yeah i know the sun leaches aout your CH but i think it was mostly because of the water i added. the sun hits my pool as soon as it comes up and i didn't lose any ch till i added the water. I cant say enough about how much i love this forum you guys have helped so much. thank you.

Side note i went to the auto store today and i was gonna drive past the pool store so i thought i would take a sample so i wouldnt waste my cya test chemicals. I asked her to filter it and got a puzzled look then i explained. she told me to put copper algicide and a bunch of other stuff they sell and it took everything i had not to ask how they feel about ripping people off every day. I wounder how they explain to people why they have metal stains and that now they need a sequesterant all the time. i know they dont tell them it's because of the copper algicide they told them to put in there. And no one in this town can test over 10ppm ch is this the same with you guys?
 
BigBrownLog said:
@ 257WbyMag - sory i dont know how i never saw that one. i always use bens' or chemgeeks' chart. but by that one i should be somewhere in the neighborhood of 18 anyway as long as i did my math right because the lowest cya is 60.
Click to expand...
The Chlorine/CYA Chart in the Pool School just shows the SWG Pools CYA levels going down to 60 ppm because the recommendation is 60-80 ppm for CYA for such pools, but the shock level is the same as with manually dosed pools (Non-SWG Pools in the first chart). So your 18 ppm FC is fine. As others have noted, it might be on the high side if your CYA was really only 25 ppm but I wouldn't worry about that -- it will just tend to clear the pool faster (assuming the green is all algae and not copper).
 
2 things...

First, we usually we abbreviate chlorine with TC FC or CC --- total chlorine = free chlorine (the bit that does the disinfecting) + combined chloramines (used up chlorine)
CH is usually used to mean Calcium Hardness, a value you don't need to be particularly concerned with since you have a vinyl pool

secondly, What are you using to test your water? you will find that most pool stores don't test very accurately, don't know very much and are in it to make a buck.
 

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BigBrownLog said:
And no one in this town can test over 10ppm ch is this the same with you guys?
Click to expand...
In the stores around here that's true too, even better some stores use computer read strips! and that's another reason why I'm so greatful for this forum and the FAS-DPD test! What I don't understand is why the pool stores don't use it for testing. Makes no sense.
 
update 0900 12.5 FC - PH 7.2 - TA 60 as long as the high FC didnt mar the other 2 tests

.
@ chem geek yeah this is the only one i really ever use http://www.troublefreepool.com/chlorine-cya-chart-t2346.html and since i have had yellow mustard before i just assume that is ths case now since it lools the same. Thats where i got the 18ppm.

@ The Mermaid Queen thanks for reminding me it's been a while since i've been on here. oh yeah i know they dont test very accurately. I just get a kick outta goin there sometimes.

@ frustratedpoolmom yeah i dont get it either it's not like the extra overhead of a better testkit would put there stealing ***** under.
 
update
FC PH TA CYA ADD
0900.....12.0.....7.2.....70.....??.....nothing/just need to vacuum the dead.

Im clueless on what the CYA is because i just added it recently, it has rained, i used shock, it hasn't lost much FC at all durring the day so I suspect it is 30ppm or higher, and I'm gonna be changing out the sand as soon as the pool is sparkling.

Anyone have any suggestions on replacing the sand? I already bought the sand. I was just wondering on technique to make it go smoothly. Also is there any special care i should take with introducing the new sand? Should i do anything special in the first couple of weeks?
 
update
............FC......PH.....TA....CYA.....ADD
1500.....8.5.....7.2.....70.....??.....nothing/vacuumed and i can see bottom very well.

@ frustratedpoolmom. Yeah i can see the dot. if you look at my first post it has all the updates also. on the third day it was clear enough to see bottom. But as i said i dont wanna use my last CYA test just yet because i am gonna change the sand soon. from yesterday morning till this morning i only had a loss of .5 gonna do one more overnight test tonight. Looks like I lost quite a bit of CYA from backwashing and it raining. I'll know for sure tomorrow.
 
yeah i know that the turbidity it's not an issue now. It hasnt been since yesterday I just dont wanna use my last test till i get the new sand in along with the new conditioner. I will have the pool store check it for now (gonna go there tomorrow) since it is not really an issue to know the exact amount I have right now. And im not gonna spend the money to put some in now when i will loose alot of it from changing the sand.

i got a lil drunk last night and forgot to do a test last night. Im pretty sure it's organic since the chlorine cleared up the water in just a few days. now i just have to worry about the metal stains.
update

...........FC....PH....TA....ADD
1400....7.5....7.0....70....nothing pool looks pretty clear except for the metal stains. i'll post pics later
 
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