My pool water is wet and thats about the only good thing

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Warlock1

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Jul 21, 2008
28
Cape Coral, FL
ok last year had a heck of a time keeping the water clear and the SWG working. Most times it said that we needed to add salt. So I would clean the fins with acid and it would work for a day. Then started to get algae blooms (I believe black and mustard) dumped a lot of chemicals in it to clear it up and fortunately it got cold so I didn't have to mess with it.
This year I have a new outlook on the pool and want to make it easier on me. We just had the water tested and this is what we have going on.
FAC = 0
TAC = 0
Salt = 3200 good
CYA = 25 low
TA = 140 ok but on the high side
pH = 8.0 high
Acid demand = 5
Phosphates = 200 it says ok on the chart but the tech said that is high

OK so what do I need to do to get it inline and actually have my SWG actually work?
 
The first step is to lower your PH down to 7.5. Then get started on raising the CYA level to between 70 and 80. Don't worry about phosphates, they don't make a significant difference either way. Because your TA is a bit high, your PH will tend to drift up. You need to keep an eye on things and never let the PH get above 7.8 till the TA comes down to around 70 to 80.

Low CYA levels are the most common cause of algae when using a SWG. If your level was anywhere near that low last season, that would account for most of your problems.

You will get much better results in the long run if you get a top quality test kit. The TF-100 from TFTestKits.Net is a great choice, and the Taylor K-2006 is also good. A top quality test kit will give more consistent and reliable results than almost any pool store, and that can make a huge difference over time.
 
Well, to start, you need to start doing your own water testing. Get yourself a good service type test kit like the TF-100 or a Taylor K-2006. Pick yourself up some test strips for monitoring your salt levels while you're at it. The TF-100 is a GREAT kit. See the link in my sig line to check it out.

You need some chlorine in there. This can be added quickly and safely with household bleach. If you are suspecting algae which is likely considering that you have no FC, you will likely need to shock with bleach. Need a GOOD test kit to do this properly.

Your pH needs to come down. Between 7.2 and 7.8 is the general rule. Muriatic acid for this.

SWCG pools do best with a CYA on the higher side. This way, the cell doesn't have to work so hard to play catch-up when the UV radiation from the sun burns your FC off. Somewhere in the 60 to 80 ppm range is best for your CYA.

Yes, your TA is highish but not horrible. You can mess with it later. Get your pH, CYA, and chlorine issues handled first.

We need a calcium hardness reading. This is especially important since you are in AZ where the water is notably hard.

Ignore phosphate readings. This is a sales gimmick for the most part.

The SWCG needs warmer water to work. If the water temp is lower than 60 degrees (or 50, I can't remember) they generally shut off anyway.

Browse the articles in Pool School to read more about the chemistry side of things. You'll get the hang of it and your pool will less of a pain and much more enjoyable this year because of it.

Others will be along to suggest other things that I might have missed. Keep us updated with your progress. We are here to help! :-D
 
I understand what your saying and I'll pick up some acid and bleach. Now the guy said that the reason we always have to clean the SWG is because the phosphates are too high and this gives the calcium in the pool something to cling to and build up on the fins of the SWG. Is this possible or not?
 
Not really, no. Calcium builds up on the blades of the SWG when the calcium saturation index (CSI) is high. CSI gets higher primarily from high PH, TA, and CH levels. If you keep your PH, TA, and CH levels in the appropriate ranges, you won't have any problems with calcium building up on the SWG blades.

My phosphate level usually hovers around 4,000 and I have never had the slightest amount of calcium buildup on the blades of my SWG. Many pool stores push phosphate removers because they can make a large profit on them, without regard to their actual advantages and disadvantages. For nearly everyone phosphate removers are a waste of money.
 
Warlock1 said:
4 years old

So after fiddling with this for a couple of weeks, my Cl is around 3-4, my PH is around 8 and it just doesn't want to go down. TA is still around 150 and my CYA is on the rise as it is now at 50.
Click to expand...

Is the CYA "on the rise" because you are adding CYA? (you should be adding it manually...) if it rose "on it's own" the testing may not be accurate.

Try a lower target for the PH - try 7.2, do this every time it hits 7.8 or higher. See if a lower target helps bring things into range.

What % strength acid are you using?
 

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You'll have to call around, checking hardware stores and big box stores with paint departments, etc.
If you are calculating correctly with the correct % then it should work just takes more... unless there is an issue with the stuff you are using... IDK. Try a different brand or stronger strength if you are able to find it and see if that makes a difference. Do you notice if the TA is dropping at all?
 
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